no spark help please

[bronco58]

I need help with my 93 bronco with a 5.8 i have just done the head gaskets and turned in to new heads,one was cracked,have put it all back to gether and it ran theree or four thimes all i had time to mess with it it has no spark now i have replaced the igniton controller on the fender and nothing is it the distributor it was really loose when and you turn it catches in one spot,i know the coil is good have tried on another bronco and it ran fine.and i am still messing with the timing too wen it ran it seemed to run better at 15* than 10* what it says under the hood.Any help would be great on eather,Thanks Sam

 

[miesk5]

yo!

OK, does it crank the starter over? If so;

Is rotor turning while cranking engine over?

Next is;

disconnect the SPOUT connector & try; if it has Spark then, pull distr. and have it tested & R&R or buy a rebuilt distr.

"...Secondary ignition voltage can shock you. Do NOT hold or touch a spark plug wire while cranking the engine.>

disconnect one of the plug wires from a spark plug and place the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. You can insert a small Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire (the plug boot), or a small bolt or nail to provide a conductive path. Then crank the engine and look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver, bolt or nail in the end of the plug wire to the engine... If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem..." you'll need to ts the ign sys..see down below

try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) by our pal BroncoJoe

of course you won't be able to do da Key On Engine Running (KOER) portion, which reqs the engine has to be @ normal operating temp.

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14269&st=0&p=74587entry74587

Are the engine grounds in-place ok?

there are a few grounds...

Troubleshooting, Overview & Operation; "...Ford calls this electronic ignition the Thick Film Integrated-IV (TFI-IV) ignition system. The TFI module is also known as the Ignition Control Module (ICM) which reports engine position and rpm to the PCM. The PCM then determines the proper spark timing and advance, and returns a reference signal to tell the TFI module to switch the coil, thereby by creating a spark. The PCM used on these vehicles is referred to by Ford as the Electronic Engine Control-IV (EEC-IV) module..." read more Source: by therangerstation.com Most of this applies

 

[bronco58]

thanks for the help form miesk5 it was the distributor the other one i guess the bearings went out and was wobbilng and had no spark want to oreilly's and got a rebuilt one,for now msd later,runs so so still dialing it in with the timing.One more question is I took off the AIR system the smog pump is just there for the belt I took all of it off and the guy at the ford dealer told me it would not mess with it so i took it off when i did the heads has any one done this before? and how did it turn out? and what did you do with the vaccume hoses?,i just put them together so no leaks,will put pics up soon of what I did. thanks for all youre help,Sam

 

[miesk5]

yo!

ok, that's good exc. for having to spend da $ on a rebuilt unit, but ** happens.

As far as da smog stuff; I prefer to leave it in; aside from State Inspection Laws and Fed Laws and our breathing in particular...

Some have removed it bec of mech problems;

Removal, Belt Part Number in an 89 5.8; NAPA Belt Part # 060825 Source: by Cucamongan (Scotty) at SuperMotors.net

For the rest of da AIR sys; you'll prob get a check eng light; but will run ok with all those vac hoses/ports plugged.

GL

some backgrnd info for the heckuva it...

Overview & Diagram"...The 2ndry air system is known to fail in a wide variety of ways. The check valves that prevent hot exhaust from entering the rubber hoses age, rust, leak, & crack open melting the plastic TAB & TAD valves, creating exhaust leaks that can damage other components, raising exhaust oxygen levels (setting lean codes or rich adaptive limit codes), and making rattling noises. The hard steel tubing between the exhaust & the check valve can rust or crack (especially the infamous "crossover tube" on the backs of V8 heads). The vacuum controls leak (including the coffee can reservoir on the R wheelwell) (Miesk5 NOTE, this is the Vacuum Reservoir (VRESER), it stores excess vacuum to prevent rapid fluctuations and sudden drops in a vacuum signal, such as during acceleration) get misrouted during other repairs, or the diaphragms rupture. The electronics that control the vacuum controls can fail electrically or mechanically, or the wires can be damaged. But all of these failures are either A) relatively cheap & easy to repair, or B) cheap & easy to prevent with normal inspection & maintenance..."

Overview; "...The thermactor bypass and diverter valves are actuated by small solenoids called TAB (thermactor-air-bypass) and TAD (thermactor-air-diverter) valves. The computer tells the solenoids to open/close, and the solenoids in turn direct vacuum to the the actual diverter and bypass valves.The TAB and TAD solenoids are prone to failure and when they do fail the problem can be difficult to diagnose. However, the symptoms are: 1) stalling after you come to a stop. 2) "lean" code 3) "EVP outside of tolerance" code 4) rough idle I think I paid about $45 each for the two solenoids. Also replaced the one for the EGR valve -- it checked good, but looked identical so I figured it would probably go next..."

Source: by RVcams

The only components in the Secondary Air Injection system that the ECU talks to are the TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) and TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter) solenoids. On the F-series, these may also be called AM1 and AM2 solenoids (AM for Air Management). by GT 0909

 

[miesk5]

ok, found the good stuff in my MS WORD file from yrs ago; Removal; "...What you need to do is electrically plug in the TAB and TAD solenoids but remove the vacuum lines, then all the air injection plumbing and valves can be removed and the heads plugged. The EGR is a seperate system from the Thermactor and the computer treats it very differently, it also helps increase milage and power so it's a good idea to keep it anyway. If you have the DPFE system there is no way to bypass it without the computer knowing and throwing a code so you may as well keep it intact. you'll get codes if you remove the solenoids, the easiest way to avoid this is to just leave them plugged in. The TAB and TAD you could fake out pretty easy, but even the old EGR system can't be faked because the computer both commands valve movement and watches for feedback to confirm it happened, so a dummy resistor won't cut it.

Source: by Conanski (Paul (Conan) O) at fte

Removal, Belt in a 95 5.8; "... I have a 351, so i know mine is a little different. but my stock belt was 93.5 inches. when i took off the smog pump, i needed a belt 2 inches shorter. 91.5. thats the stock sized belt for a 90 bronco with a 302. so says the autparts store. if yours is like mine, and you need to lose two inches, try a belt 2 inchs smaller than stock. all my accesorys are placed like in the diagrame fireguy just posted. i also beleive there was a thread about this not to long ago, and people were listing part numbers..."

Source: by Alan T

use some string and run it through the pulleys and take the measurement then hit your local parts house

 

[bronco58]

was trying to time it today and it died was like it ran out of gas but it has a full tank moved the little flap and could see it,cheaked for spaark and had no spark again.I am confused it was running WHY did it do this! what would make it loose spark can take the intake hose off and opened the my dad pushed the gas pedal and was looking and noticed I could smell gas like when i flood my dirt bike pulled the plug and pluged it in to the wire and tried it and could not see the spark no lights on the dash while it was running was like normal was letting it warm up and watching the gagues and looked good wale it was running.What do I do please help this is my daily driver,Thanks Sam

 

[2percent]

It could be a faulty replacement distributor but I would check the coil and ICM first. Check your grounds too.

 

[bronco58]

the coil is a new msd and the icm is a master pro i just bought,i did test them and both worked on another 5.8, i put the mototcraft coil back on to see if any difference but nothing,it was still working fine when I took it off, just bought the msd coil when i put new motorcraft plugs and wires and a msd cap and rotor and they have been on for maybe 2,000 miles if that.the new distributor is a motorcraft rebuilt by al cordone.if you have any questions about my bronco it is a 1993 with a 5.8 and a auto and the push button 4x4 with 262k

 

[miesk5]

ok, go back and re-trace what you did to it After it was running well;

From waht you wrote; was it the coil?

Check the coil connector; some are known to go bad. the plastic around the connector is easily broken

 

[bronco58]

It has the motorcraft coil on it the same one they came with,went out before work and tried it and it started ran kinda ruff ,and thought i would drive it in to work and at lunch take it to the shop we have in town, and went to put it in gear and just pushed the brake and did not move the shifter,just reached for it,and it died and would not re start so drove my dads again.it was like it had a miss to it,the gauges looked fine,and put back most of the AIR system last night at a loss cheaked over everthing I have done and dont know what else to dk what i have done pulled the cap and the rotor turns,pulled the plug and no spark again,all vacume hoses look good and all are a tight fit pulled the cover off of them and ran my hand up it and felt nothing and carefully looked them over and did not find any thing,looked all over the motor and could not find any thing loose or i forgot and left off,loked over the battery cables pos and negitive all i could find and looked in my chiltens book and think i found them all from the diagrams i found in the book,the battery is 11.90 on my meter and cheacked a few our boat and a few other trucks before i did the bronco to see how it worked and test it on a battery that i know is new.I dont know what else to do seems like it starts just to jack with me Thanks for all youre help sam