New to the site.

[Brother Jukebox]

Hey folks. I just bought a 1988 full size Bronco with Eddie Bauer trim, a 302, and an automatic. The rear window key switch is missing, along with all the bolts that hold the hardtop on. Also i think I'm gonna need both front seats(preferably the Eddie Bauer seats with the little pine trees sewn in them). All the emblems(BRONCO, Eddie Bauer, tailgate FORD oval, and the red tailgate stripe)are gone. The motor runs good, the transmission shifts smooth(knock on wood), and the frame is straight, & rust free, and all of the 4wd componets are in working order, so the most of the damage is cosmetic. She's in pretty rough shape for the time being, but I've got some pretty big plans, lots of time, and a tiny budget. I read a few forums on here, and got signed up because My boys, and I need all the help we can find to get this old stud a trottin', and any advice, or cheap parts for sale would be awesome. Thank you for reading, and I hope to speak to y'all soon!!

 

[miesk5]

yo BRO,

WELCOME!

Some info for you and your boys for now;

Camper Top (Hard top);

"...78-91 Broncos use 4 short bolts (8mm head, 6x1.00x40mm) on each bedrail & 5 long bolts (8mm head, 6x1.00x70mm) in the upper sections. All bolts thread into U-nuts, except the 2 upper corners & the 2 rear corners which use captive nut plates. The bedrail bolts each use a clip stamped "L" or "R", but the rearmost bolts use the opposite clip. The clips for the B-pillar bolts are not marked, but the smaller tab goes down.

92-96 Broncos use 5 short bolts (tamper T-40 head, 8x1.25x30mm) on each bedrail & 5 long bolts (tamper T-40 head, 8x1.25x60mm) in the upper sections. All bolts thread into U-nuts, except the 2 upper corners & the 4 rear corners which use captive nut plates. The bedrail bolts each use a clip stamped "L" or "R", except the rearmost bolts. The clips for the B-pillar bolts are not marked, but the smaller tab goes down. There are also nut plates in 4 of the camper shell bolt holes: the 2 rearmost, and the 2 outboard at the top of the cab. They're just a heavy plate (1/4"?) with a threaded hole...."

Source: by Steve83





Camper Shell Trim

1 Roof Trim Rear Moulding 517C04

2 Quarter Window Garnish Lower Front Moulding 29004

3 Pushpin N807154-SW

4 Pushpin, Nylon (2 Req'd Each Side) N807372-S

5 Quarter Rear Window Garnish Rear Moulding 29010

6 Body Side Window Garnish Moulding Front Bracket 29126

7 Bolt and Washer N800486-S9

8 ***** and Washer (2 Req'd Each Side, 1 Req'd Center) N801157-S58

9 Roof Trim Rear Moulding Joint Cover 518B34

10 Body Side Window Garnish Moulding Front Bracket 29070

'8-91 use 17 self-drilling oval-head 1-1/4" phillips screws with captive countersunk washers to retain all the trim pieces. 6 on each long trim, 2 on each short trim, & 1 on the small center joint cover.

'92-96 use 5 screws as above for the short trim & cover, 6 color-matched pushpins on each long trim, & 2 plastic pushpins on each rear corner trim.



'80-86 Cab Trim

Modified diagram from TSB 93-15-13

Later trim is retained by screws instead of the spring steel clips shown in views A & C. Also, the steel body side garnish & plastic front body pillar inside mouldings are integrated into 1 plastic piece per side for '87-96.

More Top info LINKs in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=474

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Our Sponsor here, Jeff's Bronco Graveyard, has the Rear Window Switch On Dash, Bronco

# 34577 New 1987-91 Ford Bronco Price: $56.00

You can try to clean the contacts as Phil did; "....The next thing I did was to remove the dash switch. After removing the dash switch, I picked up a small flat head ***** driver and popper off the "rocker" switch cover from the main body of the switch. I squirted electrical contact cleaner all over the contacts within the main switch assembly both on the front and back. After doing this, I then snapped the rocker switch cover back on the main body and plugged it back into the dash harness. After doing this, I was able to get the window to go down, but not up....

I removed the switch again from the dash harness and again removed the rocker switch cover from the body of the switch. I noticed there are (4) contact points for each copper tab within the switch (1 copper tab for "up" and 1 copper tab for "down). (2) contact points for up, (2) are for down. These contact points really resemble a "points" ignition system on an old car, where there is a small metal disc attached to a flimsy piece of flat metal (in this instance, copper) and the two discs make contact to generate a spark or electricty. If any of you know about a points ignition system, the contact points eventually get "burnt" or worn due to the constant electrical pulses when the system is operational (or in this case, when the switch is depressed up or down). To remedy this, I took a small jeweler's flat head ***** driver and carefully scratched the surfaces of all (4) contact points. This in turn removed the corroded or burnt surfaces and revealed "new metal" from under the worn surfaces. After cleaning the contact points, I then squirted the electrical contact cleaner all over the switch front & back again, popped the rocker switch cover back onto the main switch body and reinstalled into the dash.Now I was able to get the rear tailgate window to go UP and DOWN smoothly..."

Wiring Diagram in 87-89 Bronco & F series (Mitchell)

Source: by equivalent (Beetlejuice) at SuperMotors.net



===============

GL!

Seats may be hard to come by here and other Forums, esp if in good to A1 condition since most owners won't swap them for other makes/models;

So, For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;

http://www.copartfinder.com

HAS PICS!!!

--

or

http://www.mypartshop.com/

Select All Parts

year, etc, then FORD TRUCK

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or

http://www.picknpull.com

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[Seabronc]

Welcome to the Zone /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> . You sound like you are about to have some fun and bonding time with you new truck /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> . Start visiting your local friendly auto parts recyclers, that's how I built mine. The only external thing on my truck that is original is the cab roof and posts .

Good luck,

 

[Brother Jukebox]

Thanks fellas! I'll look into the yard sites you mentioned miesk5, and I hope to get to know both of you as well as other members on here soon!!

 

[miesk5]

yo Bro,

YW!

Also for obsolete parts;

Our Sponsor here has been adding some to inventory; Jeff's Bronco Graveyard

and: by Ford pn:

http://www.partsvoice.com/

http://www.rearcounter.com

http://www.greensalescompany.com