Need some help

[Phrezy]

My father just gave me his 88 Bronco a few weeks ago. It runs but has a few things that need fixing, if anyone could throw me some info on some of them I be happy. since he only tells me "it's been like that since I had it"

It's a 5.8 Cleveland

1.) the steering wheel has 3-5ins of play in it, seems like that top nut I read about wouldn't fix that much play.

2.) Only a few gauges work tack,speed and battery. Oil, temp and fuel do now. Bad gauges cluster?

3.) Red engine light is on and I think it could be caused do to the fact he had a aftermarket oil gauge put in but unsure.

Also if anyone has a recommended site for ordering replacement part that would help narrow down all the ones I have found.

 

[Seabronc]

My father just gave me his 88 Bronco a few weeks ago. It runs but has a few things that need fixing, if anyone could throw me some info on some of them I be happy. since he only tells me "it's been like that since I had it"

It's a 5.8 Cleveland

1.) the steering wheel has 3-5ins of play in it, seems like that top nut I read about wouldn't fix that much play.

2.) Only a few gauges work tack,speed and battery. Oil, temp and fuel do now. Bad gauges cluster?

3.) Red engine light is on and I think it could be caused do to the fact he had a aftermarket oil gauge put in but unsure.

Also if anyone has a recommended site for ordering replacement part that would help narrow down all the ones I have found.

 
Welcome to the Zone /

The engine you have is a 5.8 Windsor not a Cleveland

Questions.

1. 3 to 5 inches of play is not good.  You will have to do a little investigation of the front end and find the problem, that is down right dangerous.  Have someone move the steering wheel back and forth to see if you can see where thew slop is.  It could be inside the steering box, possibly the box is loose on the frame, or further down in the steering linkage, ball joints, etc.

2. I take it that you meant that the oil, temp, and fuel gauges don't work.  If so, it could be the instrument voltage regulator.  Unfortunately I don't have a diagram for your year truck, but I'm sure someone here does.  If your dad put a wet oil gauge in, then they may have unhooked the stock one at the engine and used the same port for the wet gauge connection.  I put in a wet gauge but did a little extra plumbing to allow both to work.  The wet gauge is by far more accurate.  The gas gauge could also be a bad sender unit.  The reason I mentioned the instrument voltage regulator is that all 3 gauges are run by it.  It is mounted on the back of the panel.

3. Red engine gauge could be because they removed the sensor to connect the wet gauge.  Like I said a little extra plumbing will allow both to work.

My favorite sites for Bronco parts are http://broncograveyard.com (oursponsor) and http://www.lmctruck.com/

Good luck,

>-

 

[Phrezy]

Thanks for the help I will be taking a look at it all tomorrow. I'll see if I can locate that voltage regulator.

The only thing is I thought the Cleveland had eight bolt valve cover were the Windsor had only 5. I was reading that online and that's how I came up with the Cleveland since it had eight.

 

[Seabronc]

They never put a Cleveland  in a 88 Bronco

 

[Phrezy]

I'm guessing the engine was swapped out at some point if the eight to five bolt is a correct assumption.

 

[Seabronc]

Is it a carbed or EFI engine windsor looks like this.  Take a picture or two of yours and post them.  Keep the picture size to 1024 x 768 or less so they are visible on one screen.

>-

 

[miesk5]

yo,

I believe the Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR) was used up to & incl. 86 Broncos.

Fuel Gauge;

Testing in 87-88 Bronco & F Series; When the fuel gauge needle is below the 1/2 to 1/4 tank range the needle will swing all the way above the full mark on the fuel gauge; An erratic fuel gauge needle when the fuel tank is 1/2 to 1/4 full may be caused by excessive wear of the resistive film on the fuel pump sender assembly. The wear occurs during transporting of the vehicles via rail or truck over long distances. The fuel gauge will indicate correctly from a full tank to about 1/2 or 1/4 tank of fuel. When the fuel gauge needle is below the 1/2 to 1/4 tank range the needle will swing all the way above the full mark on the fuel gauge. To correct this, install a new fuel pump sender assembly. Refer to the appropriate 1988 Car/Light Truck Shop Manual, Section 24 for detailed service information. Refer to the following fuel pump sender application chart for the correct service part number. in Fuel Gauge Erratic TSB 88-18-03 87-88 Bronco & F Series 4.9L/5.0L (all PN E9VY-9275-A) & many others; \
Source: by Ford

Testing in 87-96; Fuel Gauge Moves from E to below E; "...Disconnect the connector at the fuel tank, ground the yellow with white tracer wire (make sure you have a good ground),turn the key on-if the gauge goes to empty, chances are, the fuel sender is the problem. If the gauge doesn't move, then recheck the grounding of the Y/W wire, if it is good then the problem is is forward of the sender (wiring/connectors/instrument cluster)..." Miesk5 Note, Steve wrote, "...Pre-'87 fuel level senders are TOTALLY different from '87-up. Not only do they work over a different range; they work in the opposite direction..."
Source: by 85bigbronco

Testing in an 88 BII;

the little resistive strip in them gets bad and causes erratic readings. Also, while you are at replacing it, check out the connector to make sure the ground is good back to the battery. Do a resistance check from the black lead to the battery (-) post. If is is more than a couple of ohms, run a new ground lead to it.

by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12152

Wiring Diagram in an 89; should be same as your 88



by SeattleBronco

Ground G801 is a Black wire bolted to the radiator core support
behind driver side headlight.

Coolant Temp

Pull the R/Wh wire straight off the sender & ground it to the block, intake, or head. Then turn the key to RUN. If the needle pegs, replace the sender. If not, diagnose the circuit.

by Steve at http://broncozone.com/topic/18824-coolant-gauge-inop/

Sender Locations  & Depictions in 87-91 (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM)
Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at http://broncozone.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=6665

===================

The easiest way for me to tell the difference between the 351C and the 351M/400 engines was the 351M/400M has approximately a 1" rib cast onto the block along side the distributor from the front of the block back to the intake manifold.

Here is a link to a photo with a good comparison of the 351C and 351M/400 that clearly shows the rib and other differences between the two.
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/attachments/all-ford-techboard/1527d1194606890-ways-tell-351c-351m-400blk.jpg
 
Here is another website that has some useful info on how to ID Ford engines.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/engineID-V8.htm

by Daryl at http://www.boss302.com/smf/index.php?topic=59486.0


 
ablue69 wrote in same thread; "...Bottom line is two SURE FIRE ways to tell the difference are -
1  Ridge on top of block on drivers side of distributor that runs to front edge
2  Width of two top bell housing bolts is approx. 6" for a 351C and 8" for a 351M..."