Need some help and info please

[Spikemike]

I have recently bought a 93 full size bronco which is in amazing shape and has the stock 5.0 with some work and rebuild. I am not mechanically inclined what so ever but am learning, ever since I bought it vie had a problem with it, if it sits for more then 8 hrs and you start it up the check engine light will be on and will idle rough and blow smoke for about 10-15 min then will kinda fart and the check engine light will go off and it will idle perfect. I was told by the previous owner not to drive till this happens so I always wait, sometimes 20 minutes, I've tried to rush it by giving it a little gas and see what happens but when I did I revved it up to about 2,000 rpm's and let off and it stuck until it did it's thing. To make things worse the other day I had driven it probably 30 miles and was just about home when I got caught at a light, just as I was coming to the complete stop the truck just shut down and the check engine light came back on, I tried to start it back up a few times and it would only just keep cranking but wouldn't turn over, I added gas, checked to see if I could here the fuel pump running and it was but still nothing, I called my friend who has a bluepoint scanner and had him hook up to it and we ran it at least three to four times and kept saying system pass, so instead of me bugging him I was hoping to get some help here, I was thinking maybe it could be the TPS but not real sure. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thank you

 

[miesk5]

yo Mike!

WELCOME!

What color smoke? black, blue or white?

Black smoke = rich fuel mixture;

check air filter

pull Red (could be discolored or replaced by a prev owner w/black line) vacuum line off of Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR); any sign of gas aroma or gas in the line = bad FPR (see below)

vacuum leak (see below)

a sensor

leaky fuel injector

Blue smoke = engine wear or damage

pull a few spark plugs and check for fouling & gap (see below)

White smoke = coolant leak, usually through head gasket

check coolant recovery tank level; if low after filling to mark and running for awhile.

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- Check dipstick,any signs of chocolate milk = coolant; or gas aroma = gas in crankcase

Did you do both tests for Codes under following conditions?

The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test.

............ if not;

Try a Self Test for Codes by our bro-in-grease here, BroncoJoe19 @ http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

An assistant to write the info is helpful

heat the engine up; idle until temp gauge is in normal range you usually see

and when it warms up; shift thru all gears incl Reverse anyway.

Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic)

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function if in a hurry today.

And Post em here according to

KOEO

& KOER

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Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)

Location pics by Cole; driver side of intake manifold





...

Vacuum Leak Test; On an idling engine check for vacuum leaks using a mechanic's stethoscope with the probe removed, or a ~3' garden hose section. On COLD ENGINE only, use propane torch w/rubber hose attached, UNLIT or spray carb cleaner, when it gets to the the leak the RPMs will rise. Also check: vacuum hoses; intake manifold gasket & throttle body; PCV line; vacuum reservoirs: EGR Sys Vacuum Tank & 2ndry air (coffee can); AC, heater, defroster, vent control ckt & vacuum tank (plastic ball type), under dash & lines to heat/blend/etc. doors; power brake booster; cruise control ckt, etc. Where applicable; BEWARE OF BELTS/PULLEYS, FAN AND HOT ENGINE

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

..

Spark Plug Firing End Analysis, General

Source: by gnttype.org @ http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html

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Timing & Plug Gar/Type for your year, engine, etc can be found on sticker atop radiator; if missing;

Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) Decal; Contains Vacuum Diagram & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP. On-Line for Free at Ford.

Click "Quick Guides" in left panel; Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list." Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker). Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover. Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window

Source: by Ford @ http://www.motorcraftservice.com

FGo thru the drill, select: 1993 "light truck", 5.0

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Timing

Adjustment in Ford EFI Engines; MIESK5 NOTE; Spark timing that is ******** from specification may increase exhaust gas temperature and shorten catalyst life. Refer to the following procedure for service details. a. Check spark timing. Check base timing with spout disconnected. Set base timing to the specification on the vehicle emission decal. b. Check computed timing with spout connected. NOTE: COMPUTED TIMING IS EQUAL TO BASE TIMING PLUS 20° BTDC ± 3°.

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=71

btw, your SPOUT connector is on the driver side inner fender near hood hinge

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EEC IV Strategies

Source: by Ford via miesk5



Figure on using just the Cold Driveaway:

Can be:

Timing

PIP (not likely since it will do opposite of going bad under heat, etc.)

MAF (no MAF on your yr)

TPS, ECT, ACT, NDS (neutral drive safety switch)

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Operational Sequence, Depiction & Wiring Diagram in a 94; "...When the ignition is switched to the ON position, it turns the EEC Power Relay on. The EEC Power Relay provides power to the EEC-IV processor and the control side of the fuel pump relay. Power for the fuel pump is supplied through a fuse link or high current fuse attached to the starter solenoid (battery side). From the fuse link or high current fuse, current flow is through the fuel pump relay and Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch to the fuel pump. The IFS switch is a safety device used to shut off the fuel pump in the event of a collision. If the IFS switch is "tripped," it must be reset by depressing the white or red button on the top of the switch. The fuel pump relay is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, the fuel pump will operate. If the ignition switch is not turned to the START position, the PCM will shut the fuel pump off after approximately one second. The PCM will operate the fuel pump when the ignition is in the START position to provide fuel while cranking.After the engine starts, the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump unless the engine stops, engine speed drops below 120 rpm, or the IFS switch is "tripped."

Note: Grounding the FP lead at the DLC will allow the pump to run continuously with the ignition switch on.

Rough idle, hesitation, poor throttle response, induction backfire and stalls during cold start/warm up may be caused by the poor volatility of some high octane premium grade unleaded fuels (91 octane or higher (R+M)/2); in Tips to Avoid Lean Conditions TSB 91-8-13; "...Rough idle, hesitation, poor throttle response, induction backfire and stalls during cold start/warm up may be caused by the poor volatility of some high octane premium grade unleaded fuels (91 octane or higher (R+M)/2). When compared to regular grade unleaded fuel (87 octane (R+M)/2), high octane premium grade unleaded fuel may cause long crank time.ACTION: Use a regular grade unleaded fuel in all vehicles, except where a premium unleaded fuel is recommended in the Owner Guide. If lean air-fuel type symptoms are experienced, determine the grade and brand of fuel used and offer the following service tips. Advise those using a higher octane grade fuel to switch to a regular grade unleaded fuel. For those using a regular grade fuel, advise them to try another brand. Do not advise using a higher octane unleaded fuel than is recommended for that specific engine. Ford engines are designed to perform best using a high quality regular grade unleaded fuel. Only advise using a higher octane unleaded fuel to avoid potentially damaging spark knock or ping, but do so only after mechanical fixes are ineffective. NOTE: ALL UNLEADED GASOLINES USED SHOULD CONTAIN DETERGENT ADDITIVES THAT ARE ADVERTISED AS HAVING "KEEP CLEAN" OR "CLEAN UP" PERFORMANCE FOR BOTH INTAKEVALVES AND FUEL INJECTORS..."

Source: by Ford

 

[Spikemike]

Thank you miesk5 I appreciate the info I will be sure to go thru and check everything and keep you posted, and as far as the smoke it really only smokes like maybe once or twice while it's having the issue to start it's usually just a quick burst of like a white smoke and then when it's all over with the thing runs like a dream and never had a problem until it just shut down at a light and the check engine came on, now it won't start at all it will sit there and try to turn over as long as u hold the ignition over almost like it's out of gas but won't start, we put the computer on it as soon as we got home with it so it probably sat for about 45 minutes and we turn the key to the on position and ran the scan but can't run the scan with it started yet, cuz well it wont start lol.

 

[Spikemike]

I pulled the red line off the fuel pressure regulator and yes it smells of gas and seemed like it may of had a tiny bit around the stem too, now if I replace that should I replace that line too? And is there anything else I should replace

 

[miesk5]

yo Mike;

Def replace the FPR$; its diaphragm ruptured.

Replace vac hose if deteriorated.

r&r;

"Step 1: You must first relieve the fuel pressure. To do this, first locate your inertia switch. Mine was located behind the right kick panel.



It is a small housing with an electrical connection and a red button on the top of it. Once you have found the inertia switch, start your engine and let it run. You will notice that the inertia switch has a small slit just below the red button. Pop the red button up using a flat-head screwdriver through the small slit, it should cause your engine to stall. Or in my case, and your engine won't start, simply pop the button up without the engine running. Next, crank the engine a few times to be sure that all the pressure is released. Also unscrew the gas cap and leave off in order to help relieve the pressure. The fuel pressure is now relieved. Now, disconnect the cable on the negative terminal of the battery and the ground connections, for safety and to reset the computer codes.

Step 2: Locate the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail.

This picture was taken from the driver's side front headlight towards the back center of under the hood.



Disconnect the vacuum lines from the regulator and remove the screws that are holding it in place. Be aware that the fuel rail may need to be removed in order to get to these screws on some models, I lucked out and had no problem accessing the screws and vacuum connections. You will need an allen wrench for the screws holding the regulator in place. A little fuel will most likely drain out, nothing to be worried about unless it's gushing out. Remove the regulator, but save the o-ring unless your new one came with another. Lightly oil the o-ring (do not use silicone grease) and replace with the new regulator. Secure the regulator in place with the screws and reconnect the vacuum lines.



Step 3: Next, push the red button on the inertia switch back down. Reconnect the battery. Replace your gas cap. Turn your ignition on and off several times without starting the engine to check for fuel leaks. Finally, start the engine. It may take a few cranks in order to build up enough pressure for it to start. I'll also warn you that it may still run a little rough until the computer "re-learns" your truck's conditions, but will eventually smooth out unless you've got something else causing the rough condition.

And that's all folks! I decided to do a write-up because the fuel pressure regulator seems to be a part that commonly fails on Ford trucks and can be easily replaced by anyone. I tried to be descriptive yet brief, believe me it was hard for me not to write a novel. Hopefully this will help you guys out getting your beasts runnin smooth again. Feel free to PM me with any questions. Enjoy"

BY COLE

Since it won't start; you can crank engine until you're comfortable about pulling R&R; but let it cool down of course and have cotton rags and at times, I used rags w/Saran Wrap to help control the flow over engine and below.

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FYI,

Overview; "...The Fuel Pressure Regulator is attached to the fuel supply manifold assembly downstream of the fuel injectors. It regulates the fuel pressure supplied to the injectors. The regulator is a diaphragm-operated relief valve. One side of the diaphragm senses fuel pressure and the other side is connected to the intake manifold vacuum. Nominal fuel pressure is established by a spring preload applied to the diaphragm. Balancing one side of the diaphragm with manifold vacuum maintains a constant fuel pressure drop across the injectors. Fuel in excess of that used by the engine is bypassed through the regulator and returns to the fuel tank. pressure test point with a Schrader fitting is in the engine fuel rail to relieve pressure in the fuel system and to measure the injector supply pressure for service and diagnostic work. Refer to Caution and Warning..." by Ford