need help

[chucklysbronco]

Hey guys, I've got a 1990 full-size Bronco,5.8 liter engine, lately I've been having power loss issues after it has ran for 30 minutes or so on the highway it sounds like its back firing when I accelerate and wont start until it has cooled down for a couple of hours. I have noticed that if it sets for a week or 2 it runs fine for a couple of days then starts acting up again. Anyone else ever have this problem or idea what is causing it?

 

[Rons beast]

Hey Chuck,

Welcome

That sounds like a typical ign. control module problem. But before you just replace it, do a dilligent inspection of all the vacuum lines and wires. Check everything you can under the hood.

Good Luck

 

[miesk5]

yo chucklysbronco,

WELCOME!

As Ron advised;

and

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

===

Consider Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993; & Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service, and Modify All Ford-Lincoln-Mercury Cars and Light Trucks, 1980 to 1987 by Charles Probst

avail @ BARNES & NOBLE, AMAZON, E BAY, ETC.

 

[chucklysbronco]

Thanks for the help guys! gave it a good tune up replaced the module and it helped a lot. Even found dry rotted vacuum lines but she still hesitates when pulling out onto the high way pulling a hill and when passing and still doesn't want to start when shes been run for awhile. leave it to sit and cool off for 30 minutes or so and then it starts. Any more ideas? Again thanks for the help.

 

[miesk5]

yo C,

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

see link above

Guessing that we will see a code for Hall Effect (Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) Signal, Stator, RPM)

Overview & Wave Form; "...The stator is a Hall Effect device, which uses a magnetic field. It sits under the distributor cap and picks up a signal from a wheel with teeth. (miesk5 NOTE; this wheel is a rotary armature that has open areas called windows and tabs, called vanes). The wheel has the same number of teeth as cylinders in the engine and moves at the same speed as the distributor and camshaft. If you have a V8 then the wheel has eight teeth; seven teeth are the same and one tooth is smaller to identify cylinder #1. As the wheel spins with the distributor is breaks the magnetic field of the hall devise generating a sine wave. This sine wave is called the raw Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) signal and indicates the engine status at 10deg. BTDC. Now some people think the TFI is responsible for this, but that is incorrect; the PIP signal passes threw the TFI unaltered to the computer. This sensor is so accurate that cam changes can be a bad thing. The computer is programmed when to open fuel injectors in relation to the valve timing from PIP. Changing the valve timing with a cam swap won't be noticed by the computer. So optimal performance and idle will not be to their true potential. As I've said on other pages this sensor is extremely important. Without it working properly the computer never senses the engine moving and the entire vehicle is a paper weight. If you have a distributor mounted TFI, it too can be the problem, because the PIP signal must pass through it to the computer. The stator and TFI both share the same grounds and power circuits, when one fails the other might be bad as well. It's a standard practice at dealerships and most quality repair shops to replace the TFI and stator at the same time. This prevents the problem from re-appearing a few weeks latter..."

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=25

 

[nelbur]

Thanks for the help guys! gave it a good tune up replaced the module and it helped a lot. Even found dry rotted vacuum lines but she still hesitates when pulling out onto the high way pulling a hill and when passing and still doesn't want to start when shes been run for awhile. leave it to sit and cool off for 30 minutes or so and then it starts. Any more ideas? Again thanks for the help.

My 302 would not start hot, but would start after cooling with the hood up for about 15 minutes. It turned out to be a bad engine coolant temperature sensor (ETC). It is what tells the computer how hot the engine is. It did show up when I ran the codes.