Manual Transfer Case

[93preranger]

I just purchased a 89 bronco xlt with a 351 and Im guessing a c6 (3-speed) the issue Im having is with the manual transfer case, the stick doesn't move, it is in 2wd and I cant get it to budge. The shifter pulls back (about 1/4in.) far enough that the 4x4 light turns on but the transfer case obviously hasn't shifted. Iv never had a 4x4 act like this I am at a lose

 

[93preranger]

thanks justshootme, steve the owners manual and the sunvisors are M.I.A. so Im not that lucky. I got the transfer case shifter to pull back and engage into 4H, locked both hubs and it drove for about 100ft. then the it seemed to go into neutral except for it made a pretty intense clicking/grinding sound /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> after that I put the transfer case back in 2h and unloked the hubs, after that it drove fine??

 

[Justshootme84]

The noise could either be the t-case or the auto-hubs. Since you just got the Bronco and may not know the condition is why I suggested checking the fluid level and the linkage before taering the t-case apart or taking it to a shop. Alot of drivers seldom use 4LO, and it's often really hard to get into that range. As i posted before, the linkage is often gummed or froze up due to neglect. If that all checks out fine and there's adequate fluid in the t-case, then it could be an internal problem with the shift forks or oil pump. The 13-56's have a problem with the pump mount against the case wearing down, but more often pump failure comes from lack of fluid. As for the auto hubs, again neblect can cause the grease to harden and the hubs not to work. A bad u-joint in the axleshafts or front driveshaft will also makle a racket in 4WD. It just seems to me that a little maintenance first may solve your problem. The 13-56 is a good t-case despite being chain-driven. What is the mileage reading?

 

[93preranger]

mileage is either 66,000 or 166,000+ thanks for the suggestions folks

 

[BLADE262US]

If you look under the truck on the drivers side of the T case you can see where the shifter shaft comes down to the T case . There is a very large shoulder bolt there that acts as the pivot for the shifter . You must take this out and clean and grease it really well the plastic bushings will set up tight when the shaft gets rusty and they will not move . The 1356 will go into 4X4 with about 1/2 inch of movement at the shifter case doesnt take much at all the later model with the shift gate that you must pull the shifter to the left after 4 HI to get into 4 LO still relies on that big shoulder bolt as a pivot . Once you get that moving freely if you still have problems look into JSM,s advice on the auto hubs they are not very strong . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[AdamDude04]

Auto hubs ****..tho nice because usually when you need 4x4..you're in snow/mud/sand/heavy rain (got it all here in CO!) ..not the best situations to get out and lock the hubs. However I always had problems with my auto hubs, and they were greased up and in perfect working order on the bench. Problem on the truck.

Manual hubs, never had a single issue..high or low with push botton

 

[93preranger]

I have manual hubs, anyway I cleaned the linkage and pivot points where the shifter goes in the t-case, got 4hi to engage, no neutral or 4lo tho. Went wheelin today and when I went to put it in 4hi and locked the hubs the rear wheels turned but the front just made the same clicking sort of sound, could this be the hubs not engaging? I was stuck when I locked the hubs so I wasn't able to roll forward or backwards to get them to engage. Do you have to roll a little for hubs to engage? Would I be best off getting a used t-case and try that?

 

[93preranger]

I have manual hubs,

 

[93preranger]

no, I have not cleaned, inspected or lubed them yet that is my next step

thanks for the tips