yo,
I hear you on pulling the tranny;
If you diy, I have some Links on it in my site @
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=171
& Tips,
such as; (this Bronco has the E4OD)
"...A mechanic friend of mine suggested I simply by longer bolts and use them to slide the tranny back instead of removing it, so I tried it. At this point so far so good. Just take out all 6 bolts and replace them with the longer ones. Make sure you also take off the single bolt which holds the cover thingy on. It separates the tranny from the engine and keeps crap from flying up on the fly wheel and torque converter
Now it wasn’t easy to pull the tranny this far back, I ended up using a ratcheting strap, it was a big ordeal. But now you have access to the fly wheel.
Take all the bolts out accept one and then loosen it slowly until it comes off, make sure you have a good hold on the fly wheel before the bolt is all the way out, it would not be fun to have this fall on you, it’s kinda dangerous. Also be careful that the cover plate behind the fly wheel doesn’t fall and cut your head off cause it will not be held on once the fly wheel is off.
Make sure you mark it so you know which way it goes back in, you can see the black marks I made on mine in relation to the ground, you can use what ever system which works for you.
OK, now you have the rear main in sight, this is where things turned for the worst. I tried to pry if off with a ***** driver, couldn’t get enough leverage, so I tried drilling with my 90 degree attachment so I could put the screws in like my Haynes manual suggested. Well the drill slipped like I should have known making a small mark on the crank, BAD.
At this point I knew I needed to remove the tranny. All my friends are loosers and refused to help me so I bought this $200.00 friend, it ended up being well worth the cost, and still cheaper than having a “real” mechanic change the seal.
Ok, so now with the tranny out of the way I pried the rear main out with a ***** driver easily. Be careful to not hit the crank (even though I already did.) But you can get it out with out damaging it.
I tried to get a pic of the scratch but the angle and such made it impossible. At this point I called another mechanic friend and asked him what he though I should do, he recommended a repair sleeve, made sense to me.
So I bought this cost me $50.00 I about crapped my pants because it’s basically a little piece of stainless. (got it at NAPA)
It comes with a little cup thing and you place it over the sleeve and the crank and hammer it on. The cup fits on that little lip of the sleeve. Now you notice the sleeve is a bit to long for the crank. Time for grinding, sigh.
Be VERY careful cause one slip and repair sleeve is toast, and I don’t even want to think about taking it off. You should also put a small film of curing silicone on it to sort of set it in place
Finally got it on and got all excited to put everything back together. Tanny installation is the same as removal. It takes some time to get the tranny back in, but the easiest way is to line up the 2 stubby shaft things on either side. Once you get those on simply turn the torque converter with one finger to line it up. All that stuff is stuff which is hard to explain, you just have to do it. Once I got it all back together and started the engine, it was leaking worse that before. I was VERY mad. So I tore it down again with a few ideas as to why it was leaking.
These are both new seals from NAPA (I discovered the NAPA Teflon and the Felpro one from advance are the same damn seal accept the NAPA one is 4 bucks cheaper. On the left is the rubber one and the right is the Teflon, they look about the same, but they ARE NOT.
Upon a closer examination I found the rubber one is tensioned to the crank by a spring because the rubber is very pliable, good for repair sleeves since they are slightly bigger than the original crank diameter. The Teflon one is tensioned to the crank by the stiffness of the material not good for repair sleeves should have listened to the directions. Basically what happened was that the Teflon one went on so tight it spun with the crank instead of the crank spinning in it. SO….if you use a repair sleeve DO NOT USE TEFLON. I personally would say the Teflon is better just because of the nature of Teflon, but as I discovered it does not work in all cases. If you use the rubber one put a small film of non-curing silicone on it so it doesn’t start up dry.
I did it all over again and put the rubber one on. Went on much easier. After I put it all back together after this go-round, I started it and NO LEAKS! Finally after what seemed like forever it was all good. Now learn from my mistakes!"
SEE PICS & READ MOREby TRUCKY18 (Bco) at
http://www.supermotors.org/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=3749&s=29261#content
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And yes, inspect pan for severe rust and replace the pan gasket and pan if nec.
Ck for auto tranny front seal leak too.
and for posterity;
Engine oil leaks are sometimes improperly diagnosed as transmission pump seal leaks. "The following areas of possible leakage should also be checked to determine if engine oil leakage is causing the problem. Leakage at the valve cover may allow engine oil to flow over the converter housing or seep down between the converter housing and block causing oil to be present in or at the bottom of the converter housing. Oil plug leaks will allow oil to flow down the rear face of the block to the converter housing. Leakage at the crankshaft seal will work back to the flywheel, and then into the converter housing. Leak Check Test with Black Light Oil soluble aniline or fluorescent dyes premixed at the rate of 2.5ml (1/2 teaspoon) of dye powder to 0.24L (0.5 pint) of automatic transmission fluid have proven helpful in locating the source of fluid leakage. Such dyes may be used to determine whether an engine fluid or transmission fluid leak is present, or if the fluid in the transmission fluid cooler hose leaks into the engine coolant system. An ultraviolet light must be used to detect the fluorescent dye solution. " from 1996 Bronco with E4OD Automatic Transmission Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
