Lift kit install question

[S_bolt19]

Are you replacing the steering linkage? If you are, do yourself a favor and order a steering setup from Stone Crusher Steering. It is what I put on and it is very simple to install. It is also stronger than OEM parts and is all heim joints at the rod ends. The rods themselves are DOM tubing with the heims screwed into it. It also aleviates binding in the steering. The only thing you would have to do is ream the knuckles out and you can put the tie rods on top of the knuckle for more ground clearance. The cost difference between this and an OEM replacement from one of the vendors isn't much, and for the strength factor, is worth it. You can also do your own alignment real easy because the heims are reverse threaded to keep them tight. But to answer your question, center to center on the tie rod bolts should be 48".

 

[ken0275]

Are you replacing the steering linkage? If you are, do yourself a favor and order a steering setup from Stone Crusher Steering. It is what I put on and it is very simple to install. It is also stronger than OEM parts and is all heim joints at the rod ends. The rods themselves are DOM tubing with the heims screwed into it. It also aleviates binding in the steering. The only thing you would have to do is ream the knuckles out and you can put the tie rods on top of the knuckle for more ground clearance. The cost difference between this and an OEM replacement from one of the vendors isn't much, and for the strength factor, is worth it. You can also do your own alignment real easy because the heims are reverse threaded to keep them tight. But to answer your question, center to center on the tie rod bolts should be 48".

I already had the steering conversion kit purchased. I bought it about 4yrs ago and it has been sitting on the shelf. Samething with my lift kit, rims and tires.

Bought everything back in 05 to install on another bronco.......and other bronco needed too much work for me to complete.

 

[Bully Bob]

"Does anyone know the measurement from tie rod knuckle hole to the other side or another measurement I can use.

---Well maybe a drive around the block 1st???? "

Yours is a '76 ---(assuming all is stock)

66-75 is 48" --- 76-77 is 50" according to the suppliers. (depends on the year of your axle.?)

However.., you can set your front wheels parallel for trip to shop.

Or approx 1/8 inch toe-in. That's all they will do.., there's no other adjustment. (save centering pitman arm & steering wheel)

 

[ken0275]

"Does anyone know the measurement from tie rod knuckle hole to the other side or another measurement I can use. ---Well maybe a drive around the block 1st???? "

Yours is a '76 ---(assuming all is stock)

66-75 is 48" --- 76-77 is 50" according to the suppliers. (depends on the year of your axle.?)

However.., you can set your front wheels parallel for trip to shop.

Or approx 1/8 inch toe-in. That's all they will do.., there's no other adjustment. (save centering pitman arm & steering wheel)

Mine was all stock..... I am installing JBG's 3-way adjustable steering set-up. Doing away with the y-type steering.

I was hoping for a trip around the block in this weekend when its done. I cannot afford the alignment until next weekend. I'll just load it on my trailer to get it to the alignment shop, providing its empty and I can use MY own trailer next weekend.

 

[ken0275]

Finally finished the lift kit and steering linkage.

Truck will go to the alignment shop next weekend. I did get to drive it out of the garage and hose the dust off.

1.....Last question where the drag link connects to the center link, should that be vertical or horizontal. Looking at it I think it should be vertical... that would make the drag link and track bar almost parallel. I am going to leave it for now and just let the alignment shop dial everything in and tighten everything up. Here is a pic of it and the steering linkage.

Thanks everyone for all the help......I never would have been able to do this job or I probably would not have even attempted this project if I didn't find this website and the people here.

Thank you again for all the help.

Ken

 

[S_bolt19]

The drag link & track bar should be as close to each other as possible, angle wise. If you get too much angle on either one, then you develope bump steer. The only thing I can see that might potentially become a problem, and I loosley use the term potentially, is the track bar with your drop bracket. If you get bump steer, try taking the drop bracket off if you haven't welded it. Idealy, those two should be as close as possible, and if I remember right, you didn't go higher than a 3.5" lift, correct? If that is the case, you are going to be just fine with your setup.

 

[ken0275]

I rotated the drag link and made the connection vertical. This is how it looks now.

I think this is how it should go, both the track bar and drag link start at the same height. The drag link angle is different due to it is shorter than the track bar.

After going back out to the garage and looking at it again. I installed my tie-rods from the bottom up, like the factory. I wonder if I should go top down. Which would raise my center link and bring my drag link closer to the same angle as my track bar???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

If I need to do this, what size tapered reamer do I need and does harbor freight sell them??? I do not want to buy an expensive one or a whole set to do 2 holes>>>>>>

 

[ken0275]

I just took an angle finder and the track bar is approx 5-6 degrees from being level and the center link is approx 10 degrees from level.

Would the 4 to 5 degree difference cause bump steer?

If I flipped the tie-rods over, it looks like it might be too high...

Back to the garage to keep looking

 

[Bully Bob]

If cost is an issue...I would just remove the drop bracket...

The Br. parts houses have the correct reemer & you will know it works, if you want to go that way.

If you go "on top" .., you may have to use your orig pitman arm.

I believe the attach point on your drag/tierod should point forward...how-ever the stock ones sit.

Mine sets forward/slightly up.

I honestly don't know if it matters....mine is not adjustable. i.e. only sits one way.

"Would the 4 to 5 degree difference cause bump steer?"

On one rig., it may.., on another., maybe not.

Prob. won't know 'til you drive it over some dips in the road & such.

My drag & track aren't exactly parallel & I have "O" bump-steer.

If all is tight., pop-a-cruise & go over some dips...if the Str. wheel jerks left or right...then go to plan "B" if not., you're good to go.

 

[ken0275]

Had the truck aligned and I drove it around the block. It seems like the truck wants to wander or the front end is running on low air pressure in the tires..

The only things I tightened were the tie rod ends at the knuckles. I left everything loose in oder to make the alignment easier. They were supposed to install the grease fitting and cotter pins, which they did not. So I do not know if the drag link to the pitman arm is tight.

The track bar and drag link are nearly parallel now.

I did NOT ream out the knuckles when I installed the new 66-75 tie rods. I just read on Bronco.com, that I could run it that way but the tie rods would not fit all the way into knuckles. Would the tie rods not being seated all the way into the knuckles have enough play to cause the truck to wander?

I took the truck to a 4x4 shop to have the rear drive shaft stretched and shims put in the rear to help with the drive line angle. There they said the wandering could be my caster angle. Since my radius arms are angled down. He recommended radius arm drop brackets. He also mentioned the steering shaft could be bad?

They are going to check it for me this week?

Every website I looked at so far recommend radius arm drop brackets on lifts of at least 4" or more. ( I only have a 3.5")

I can see adding those would help my spring bow and drive shaft angle. I would hate to take everything back apart and start over.

Any suggestions???

 

[Bully Bob]

"I did NOT ream out the knuckles when I installed the new 66-75 tie rods. I just read on Bronco.com, that I could run it that way but the tie rods would not fit all the way into knuckles. Would the tie rods not being seated all the way into the knuckles have enough play to cause the truck to wander?"

---This doesn't sound good on so many levels.....

"There they said the wandering could be my caster angle."

---HUH...?? thought you just paid to have this done..?

"Since my radius arms are angled down. He recommended radius arm drop brackets."

--- They're ALL angled down.

"He also mentioned the steering shaft could be bad?"

--- Not likely W/low milage... Shafts don't go bad but bell-joints, U-joints, & rag joints do. Is it P/S or manual.?

"I can see adding those would help my spring bow and drive shaft angle."

---Doubt this is necessary at this point. What deg. "C" bushings did you install..? (thought they were 7deg.)

"They were supposed to install the grease fitting and cotter pins, which they did not. So I do not know if the drag link to the pitman arm is tight."

--- The most I get fr. this most recent post is ..., I'd probably be looking for a more qualified shop.

 

[Crude dude]

Radius arm drop brackets will make it ride like a Cadillac. I have had them on my 70 for about 8 years and there is not any spring bow and it floats down the road. If you vision taking the radius arm loose at the frame and letting it hang in the breeze, it would be about 3 inches below the frame rail. The spring would straighten up and everything would be "happy" and symetrical for the front suspension. ON the other hand, I have a good friend that owns "the" pioneer of Bronco shops and he does not like them because they are a target for rocks. So you have to decide, are you going to have a street and trail rig or a serious offroad rig. I did take mine off to install a custom set of arms that are 14" longer than stock and 5.5" coils. I have yet to weld the arm brackets to the frame and set it on the ground so I dont know what the springs will look like. I have heard of the shims for the bottom of the spring buckets and depending on the design, they may be dangerous. I have not seen them.