Is she too far gone???

[Seth]

Ok starting off its a 1983 FSBronc 2wd 302.

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Know for sure the rig needs carb work or it'll keep on dying.

The other way this happened.

I needed to replace my distr. to ignition wire and when I did it first didn't want to crank over (dead batt maybe)

I kept trying and finally HOORAY! it started.

Rammed the engine a few times, let all the set oil burn, then left it alone and died.

I had to bro do this so I can listen for this click noise (wasn't present after start) and he said this box (idk name - pic@bottom)

sent off a few sparks and I think he said a few fuses broke too.

We were able to start the truck 4 times after that until it sparked some more and we quit.

I know ford sure there's a short within the P/W(switch of ground maybe).

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QUESTIONS:

What's this box?

Is she too far gone (if so whats the value at any)?

How can I fix this w/o shop visit ($300-500 per hr)

What to look for..

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I really do like broncos but if this is going to cost me, idk..

I am open to anything, even eliminating all power besides engine, instruments, and outside lights

ALL NEW:

plugs&wires

starter

alternator

distr. cap&rotor

ignition coil

voltage reg.

&rebuilt carb, needs tuning maybe vacuum work.

 

[shift1313]

i have no idea what you are talking about, sorry man. I just cant follow it.

That picture is upside down to me it looks like it may have been the cruise control box. Do you have any pictures of the wires coming out of it or the connector. Is there any writing on it? Was that behind your heater controls?

The ignition system is totally separate from anything past the fire wall(except the ignition switch) I have the entire interior out of my 85, dash, all switches, the eec ecu unhooked and everything still fires up and runs fine.

They are never too far gone. If all your problems are mechanical/electrical you are better off than most with an 80-86 bronco. my truck is the other way around, nothing but rust. Its not worth it but ill fix it anyways.

also where are you located. a shop that charges $300-$500/hr better be working on lambos or some exotic car.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

LOL Matt... you ARE a glutton for punishment! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Gotta love ya man /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Seth,

It doesn't seem that your truck is too far gone, unless there are other things wrong with it that make it not worth fixing, that my friend is a judgement call that you will have to make.

From what I gather from your post, you replaced some parts, it is hard starting, but it does start.

If you goose the engine, and let up on the throttle it will stall.

You know that carb needs work.

Something is sparking and you have no idea what it is.

I have no idea what this means... "I know ford sure there's a short within the P/W(switch of ground maybe)."

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I really can't help you with the carb problem.

Certainly a poorly functioning carb may cause the engine to be hard to start, have a poor idle, give poor acceleration, etc. You may need to get a rebuilt one, and learn how to adjust it. Maybe it just needs an adjustment.

You engine is very dependant upon a fully intact vacuum system. I'll post tips on checking it.

You suggested a weak battery. With a volt meter check the voltage between the battery posts.

Battery Charge Table

12.6V or higher: 100% charge

12.4V - 12.6V: 75-100%

12.2V - 12.4V: 50-75%

12.0V - 12.2V: 25-50%

11.7V - 12.0V: 0-25%

11.7V or less: 0% (and probably not capable of being recharged).

You may want to check your battery conenctions, both to the battery and to the engine ground, and the starter etc,.

Checking for vacuum leaks.

Some of the sensors and some of the actuators either read the amount of vacuum, or use vacuum to move controls, therefore it is important to the proper functioning of the engine that your vacuum system is fully intact. Otherwise one may get codes falsely indicating that there is a problem with a controller/actuator, or a sensor when in reality it is caused by a lack of vacuum.

Look at your rubber vacuum hoses (they are about 1/4 - 3/8 inches in diameter, if they are dry rotted or cracked, replace them. IF they slip on/off of their connectors too easily, they may have stretched out a little bit, cut the ends off, and put them back on.

You may listen for a leak. Sometimes using a cut off piece of garden hose is a good aid to listen with. Sometimes a cardboard tube (like from gift wrapping paper) is helpful. Just remember that whenever you stick your head inside a running engine compartment, that you are not wearing any loose clothing or jewelry that can get caught.

Another suggestion is to use a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the bottom of the intake manifold, and the base of the throttle body assembly. IF there is a leak, you should hear a change in your engine.

Keep a fire extinguisher handy, or use water instead of carb cleaner (it works, but not as well.) Be aware that if you use water and the wires get wet and it runs worse... your wires may be bad, and the water is allowing them to arc instead of jump the gap of the spark plug.

Another suggestion is: to take a propane torch, turn it on (but don't light it) and move it over the vacuum hoses and connections. The engine RPM's will increase if there is a leak and the propane gets sucked in.

Courtesy of TheOldWizard ford-forums... Don't forget to remind folks to check the PCV valve, hose and grommet !

Courtesy Ramnasal ford-forums... Clamp off the hose that runs to the vacuum booster (brake booster) or pull it and plug it. It is possible that the diaphram on the inside of the booster may go bad and cause a vacuum leak.

 

[Bronc76]

Seth- does P/W mean power windows?

 

[Bronc76]

Seth- does P/W mean power windows?

 

[Seth]

Sorry I was in a rush..

yes P/W means powered windows.

"I know ford sure there's a short within the P/W(switch of ground maybe)."

should read: 'I know FOR sure there's a short within the POWER WINDOWS(switch OR ground maybe)'

thanks for the replies, ill try and do some more research on this mystery box in my down time.

guess ill keep on trying to get this running in the mean time and get back to yall in theres any questions.

 

[shift1313]

when you pull the air filter off the carb check the top butterfly(s) for the choke. If there is a choke problem i could see these butterflies shutting when you let off the gas and there is a quick change in vac/pressure. If these plates get pulled shut it would sure enough choke the engine for air, dump some extra fuel and maybe make the thing hard to start. My guess is you have one of the electric chokes on the back of the carb. It just sees a 12v signal(i think) and is temperature related. I run without a choke, i just give the pedal a few pumps and she fires up, only problem is until its warm(coolant/block temp) it could stall(again maybe your problem). I know without the choke if my truck would backfire or something it could **** the butterfly closed(single barrel on my truck) and i would have to manually open the choke plate before the truck would start.

As for a power, spark issue. In that picture in the right hand side just outside of your circle is the starter block that should be bolted to the top of your steering column. Are you starting it by pushing the actuator on that?

The area where that black box is also should have some leads that went to the cigarette lighter. It looks as if you have some stuff apart. Is it possible your 12v lead(should be yellow) that went to the lighter is floating around somewhere? its possible it sparked against some of the metal under there. I remember pulling my dash apart having a similar bracket/box in that area but honestly I dont remember what it is. Ill have a look for it tomorrow. Do you know which fuses blew?