Installing new wiring harness

[miesk5]

yo Randy!

Just got back...

the master power sw.... I'd mount da relay(s) in eng compt. near batty; better to have hi amp wiring as short as possible to whatever you are supplying power to.

I know Seabronc has done somethAng like this;

http://www.supermotors.org/clubs/superford...s=30651#content

he also wrote about here too I believe...Fred! have more pics?

 

[Justshootme84]

Made some major progress this past weekend. I switched a couple wires on the fuse box so that the circuits that I'm using are all powered through the "KEY ACC" section of the box instead of both the KEY ACC and IGNITION. Those two sections were powered by a double splice in the main power wire from the battery, and connected to two plugs for the steering column. Still had to use one splice in the main wire, then run it to a relay before the main ignition switch on the switch panel. Where to find a relay, and what kind to use?

Gotta give my brother credit for this, as he was doing the soldering and helped figure out the circuits. There is already a 40 amp relay attached to the fuse box for the horn, which I'm not using. It was just a matter of changing the terminal on the KEY ACC wire to fit into the relay, as well as the terminal on the main wire splice. PLan is to run a wire to the IGN switch on the custom panel to power the relay. This KEY ACC section will control the fuel pump, choke, gauges, coil and wipers. That's where i stand at present. also plan on using an oil pressure cut-off switch in the fuel pump circuit, so that the pump doesn't run when the engine is off. That would keep fuel from overflowing, which happened when we first powered up the fuel pump with a gas line to it. JSM84

 

[miesk5]

R,

Sorry, missed seeing your update;

Bosch relays are vg and used by Ford and other maj. mfgrs.

http://www.waytekwire.com/bosch-automotive-relays.htm

I believe Tyco bought out B's relay line.

btw, don't use a strter type raly that is not rated for continuous duty.

http://www.wiringproducts.com/index1.html

maybe a yard?...altho some may be corroded.

here is a neat overview/schematic article by Craig

 

[Justshootme84]

Thanks again. My next search is looking for a fuse link for the main battery power wire going tothe fuse box and that relay. Looks like I need a 12 ga fuse link for the 8 ga. power wire. All I've been able to find and what I'm currently using is a 14 ga fuse link. The wiring harness also came with a 14 ga fuse link. I don't think it's big enough for the main power protection, but I might find a home for it on a separate circuit. JSM84

 

[miesk5]

Thanks again. My next search is looking for a fuse link for the main battery power wire going tothe fuse box and that relay. Looks like I need a 12 ga fuse link for the 8 ga. power wire. All I've been able to find and what I'm currently using is a 14 ga fuse link. The wiring harness also came with a 14 ga fuse link. I don't think it's big enough for the main power protection, but I might find a home for it on a separate circuit. JSM84

R, are you looking for the Link itself in da harness or a parts source?

Fusible Link, Ford - sizes, pics, pics Source: by Sherco Auto Supply

or just use a CB?

 

[miesk5]

Found that Parts America (Advance Auto Supply or many auto parts places that carry HELP brand - Dorman, Motormite, etc.) carries a lot of Links;

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductListSim...?Category=3062A

 

[Justshootme84]

Yes, my local NAPA store had the 12 ga fuse link wire. I have high temp ring terminals on order. NAPA also had the oil pressure cutoff switch and fittings to install it. I found a couple wiring diagrams on how to hook it up to the fuel pump, too.

 

[Justshootme84]

Put a mock-up of the gauge and switch panel in the dash:



I don't like the glare from the driver's seat area, but that may get better with some white-face gauges and an aluminum panel. Once i get the seats and rollcage back in, that should help with the glare, too. The dash bar onthe rollcage runs right along the three smaller slots on the top of the bezel.

 

[Justshootme84]

Just ordered some AutoMeter Phantom white gauges from Summit, along with a couple of brake hoses and other misc items, a few days ago; hope to get those put in next weekend or two. It's harvest season and working long hours. i did get the oil pressure safety switch installed and wired, as well as the rest of the ignition hooked up. Once i do a continuity test on the wiring and circuits, I'll be ready to put the battery back in along with the rollcage, seats, fuel cell, etc. It's alot more fun putting things back on the Bronco nowadays than it was taking them off months ago!!! JSM84

 

[Justshootme84]

Finally got the gauges mounted on a new piece of aluminum and mounted in the dash bezel:



More pics in the "dash panel" album at SFO:

http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford...ry/1133/63831-4

The continuity test came out 100%, no problems.

 

[Justshootme84]

My last and final issue is hooking up the 88 alternator. All the wires from it are connected to a fuseable link that bolts to the battery side of the starter solenoid, and it also has a small wire going to the cab. I believe it's for the charging light and hooked into the ignition switch after reading the wiring diagrams. My question is how to hook this up to get the alt to charge. For now, I robbed the light bulb/ resistor from the 88 dash, and wired it to 12V from the fuse box. Haven't tested it out yet, but wondering if this will work or is even needed? JSM84

 

[Seabronc]

My last and final issue is hooking up the 88 alternator. All the wires from it are connected to a fuseable link that bolts to the battery side of the starter solenoid, and it also has a small wire going to the cab. I believe it's for the charging light and hooked into the ignition switch after reading the wiring diagrams. My question is how to hook this up to get the alt to charge. For now, I robbed the light bulb/ resistor from the 88 dash, and wired it to 12V from the fuse box. Haven't tested it out yet, but wondering if this will work or is even needed? JSM84

If the wire is light green with a red stripe, it is for the indicator and you can get along without it or just hook it up to the resistor/bulb. The other end of that resistor/bulb needs to be hooked up to switched 12V (red with light green stripe), any place you can find that color wire will do. You would be better off using a dash mounted volt meter which will tell you what you really need to know.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Justshootme84]

Yes, the wire is Lt GRN/ Red, and about 18 gauge. my question is whether or not I even need it, since I also have a voltmeter in the gauge panel. It's my understanding that the alternator needs to be energized or excited when starting the motor in order for it to charge when the motor is running, and the indicator bulb with the resistor is part of that circuit.

 

[Seabronc]

Yes, the wire is Lt GRN/ Red, and about 18 gauge. my question is whether or not I even need it, since I also have a voltmeter in the gauge panel. It's my understanding that the alternator needs to be energized or excited when starting the motor in order for it to charge when the motor is running, and the indicator bulb with the resistor is part of that circuit.

I was thinking about that wire and I'm pretty sure you have to hook it to a switched 12V source. I have the 3G alternator in my truck which needs it hooked to a switched 12V and I believe you are using a 2G alternator which is basically wired the same. So, just hook it to a line that only gets 12V when the key is on. You can do without the light and resistor.

>-

 

[Justshootme84]

Thanks, Seabronc. I'll check out the alt when i get the engine started again.