I have a minor problem which I would like some help with. My key ingition has been acting up and sticking. Well tonight I was leaving the range and couldn't get my key in the ingition. The truck still starts okay but without the key. My haynes manual shows how to push the pin in and how to pull the old ignition out. I tried to see if it would come out and feels like I will have to put a little effert into tomorrow. I want to pickup a new ignition switch tomorrow at Advanced Auto and was wandering if anyone ealse had changed theirs and had any unspected problems. I'm not going to attempt to fix it tonight because, I have to drive it to work. Thanks
Ignition
- Thread starter lawman212
- Start date
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Seabronc
New member
I assume that Haynes gave two proceedures,
1. With key
2. Without key
The first one is very simple
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> , the second one is a PITA /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> .
You may be very fortunate if you can get the old cylinder out without the key. From the sound of it you can get it into the RUN position without the key. If so, then it will probably release by pushing the pin. When you put the new cylinder in, make sure to have the key in it and insert it in the RUN position and push in the pin to get it seated.
If you can't get the old cylinder out by putting it in RUN and pushing the locking pin in, you have PITA job ahead of you. If that is the case, I'll photograph the shop manual pages that give the detailed proceedure and attach them to this thread for you.
Do you have a tilt steering column? The proceedure is different between tilt and non-tilt.
Good luck,
>-
1. With key
2. Without key
The first one is very simple
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> , the second one is a PITA /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> .You may be very fortunate if you can get the old cylinder out without the key. From the sound of it you can get it into the RUN position without the key. If so, then it will probably release by pushing the pin. When you put the new cylinder in, make sure to have the key in it and insert it in the RUN position and push in the pin to get it seated.
If you can't get the old cylinder out by putting it in RUN and pushing the locking pin in, you have PITA job ahead of you. If that is the case, I'll photograph the shop manual pages that give the detailed proceedure and attach them to this thread for you.
Do you have a tilt steering column? The proceedure is different between tilt and non-tilt.
Good luck,
>-I don't have a tilt steering wheel and the old key will not go into the ignition it feels like something is blocking it. It starts and runs fine and turns okay without the key. But its not something I want to leave as is. I plan on attempting to fix it tomorrow morning after I get off work with a new key cylinder. The old one was sticking a little before it broke. I have seen a few Bronco owners in the area with broken key cylinders and most of them left it as is or added a starter button on the dash. I am getting to old to do it the Redneck way and want to do it right. Thats something I would do with my old 1972 Blazer all I cared about was that it was jacked up high with big tires and a big block.
Well I just got home from work and removed the ignition cylinder in about 2 seconds using an ice pick to push the pin in. The darn thing just popped right out. For the most part I am pretty happy with my first Bronco sure little things are braking on it but so for no big deal thanks to this message board and my haynes manual. I am glad to finally have a vehicle that I can work on and fix other then the wifes jeep.
that's one of my reasons to own a bronco also,
is that they are a lot easier to work on.
and extra few inches makes a big difference when changing spark plugs, wider is better.
what was wrong with it any way?
most people never use any lock oil, like they are supposed to,and i could be one of them,lol.
is that they are a lot easier to work on.
and extra few inches makes a big difference when changing spark plugs, wider is better.
what was wrong with it any way?
most people never use any lock oil, like they are supposed to,and i could be one of them,lol.
Seabronc
New member
Glad to hear everything came out OK /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> The fact that it turned without the key saved you a big headache :blink: . If it didn't you had drilling and hacking to do :-& .
Good luck,
>-
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> The fact that it turned without the key saved you a big headache :blink: . If it didn't you had drilling and hacking to do :-& .Good luck,
>-
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I had a similar problem with my Bronco, and had to call a locksmith to fix it. The little piece of metal that makes the warning buzzer buzz or ding when you leave the key in had broken off, and jammed itself inside. The key would go almost all the way in, but wouldn't turn. Anyway, the locksmith dug it out with a pick, and all was well. This is so common with Ford trucks that he guessed what the problem was over the phone without even seeing the truck. When he got there, he dug it right out. Anyway, just my 2 cents worth. That may be what's jammed in there. It cost me $60 or so to find it out.
Will
Will
Well I just fixed it with a new key cylinder I picked one up at Car Quest. They beat Advanced Auto by 10 bucks. I checked Advanced Auto's web site and it listed key cylinders form $9.00 to $31.00 and change. Went there and the smart A#%$ behind the counter said, " They really need to do something about that web site" which ended up being they only had the $31.88 one that was a speacial order item. Well the good thing is the old one popped right out and the new one went in just as fast and works fine. Thanks for the suggestions and help!!
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