Ignition

[Diezel]

I have a 88 Bronco with 5.8L . It doesn't turn over or even sound like it wants too when I turn the key. The battery is not dead. When the key is in the accessory position it works as it should, and when the key is in the run position things work fine. I don't know if its something with the ignition lock because it doesn't move smoothly like I think it should, but then it never has since I bought it.(May 05) Any good troubleshooting tips would be great.

 

[Bully Bob]

1 Read voltage at coil

2 If good, try a remote starter

3 If that worked...most likely your keyswitch

4 If not, starter solenoid my have issues

 

[Diezel]

1 Read voltage at coil2 If good, try a remote starter

3 If that worked...most likely your keyswitch

4 If not, starter solenoid my have issues

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Thanks for the response. I don't mean to be a pain, but where on coil, and what do you mean by remote start. I'm a total novice. Thanks again, diezel.

 

[Bully Bob]

Voltage probe/lights are cheap...$3-$5...With key in the on/run position read voltage at the (+) side of the coil. (black to ground & red to coil+...light SHOULD come on)

You can "short" the starter to test but best to use a remote, push button starter button. They also are $5-$10 & come with instructions. This just by-passes the key switch.

BTW these are great items to carry while in the "boonies"...! B)

 

[STLKIKN]

Couple of quick tests...

assuming its an auto...

Does it even try to turn over?

If not, put the key in "run", trans in park (E-brake on just in case)

Use a booster cable to jump the batt lead of the solenoid to the starter side of the solenoid. (remove the cable as soon as it starts, if it does)

If it turns over and runs, you've eliminated all problems EXCEPT the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch.

To eliminate the neutral safety as the problem, there should be a four wire plug at the firewall (not sure of the color coding on your truck) unplug it, test for the power into the plug with the key on (use a test light or multi meter)

there should be "paired" wire colors here (black and black with tracer, blue and blue with tracer for example) one set is for your b up lights, the other is n safety...

jump the pairs and try and start the truck using the key. if it doesn't start, switch the wire pairing try again.

if it still doesn't start, your problem is likely in the ignition.

good luck

 

[Diezel]

Thanks for all the advice and patience. I will work on it a while and see if I get it sorted out. Thanks , Diezel.

 

[Diezel]

Can anybody tell me where the neutral safety switch is located on my 88 Bronco? I put the igntion in run and jumped the solenoid and the truck starts. I tested the voltage of the single red lead going to the solenoid, and I only get 7.2 volts. Also I cannot get the shift lever out of park. I assume there must be a connection between problems. Any ideas? Thanks, Diezel. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Seabronc]

The neutral safety switch is on the transmission left side near the linkage. You may need to take it off and clean it. The reverse light switch is also part of that unit. It could also be corroded connectors to the switch. Pull them and reseat them a couple of times. Use some dialectric or bulb grease to seal them up and keep moiture out.

The complete path is, from the ignition switch on the lower steering column to connector C190 near wher the clutch would be if you had one that should have a jumper plugged into it (note: wire color is red with light blue stripe the entire length from the ignition switch to the strter solinoid). It then goes thru the bulkhead via the multi wire connector C100. From there thru connector C114 (on the left hand fender apron). From there to the switch on the transmission. From there thru C112 (on the left hand fender apron) and finallyto the starter relay.

note: just after c112 there is a splice in the wire taking the same line to the TFI module. Also at C190 there may be a split that takes the circuit to the EEC also, but that is not part of the path to the strt relay.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Diezel]

I just thought I would let anyone who's interested know that the problem with my ignition turned out to be a broken lower actuator arm. The arm attaches to the ignition rod. The arm is made of a cast metal and has a part that I would call "male" that I believe keeps the trans in park when you start the truck. Anyway that piece broke off and would not allow the shifter to move, and would not allow the ignition rod to push the ignition switch far enough to start. All I have to do now is order the part and get it back together. Thanks for all the advice everybody. Diezel