Ignition switch and tailgate window problems

[FriscoFried]

Hey fellas,
New guy here at BZ. Have used the forum before for some GREAT tech support, but I have run into a few problems I can't figure out.

1st problem: Accessory mode of ignition switch doesn't send power to the accessories

-windows, radio, heater usually work here, but don't

-everything works fine in the "on" position

-should I be looking in the steering column for a loose wire/bad connection?

-anywhere else this problem could be other than in the column?

-how to get the column off? I have a tilt column in my 88? all I can find as far as guides go are for the non-tilt columns

2nd problem: back window won't move with key switch or dash switch

-about 99% sure this has to do with the latch switch (which detects whether the gate is up or not), initially got the window stuck down, only way to bring up was with divers side push trick

-push trick on the drivers side of TG doesn't work anymore, was only good for that first time when the window was stuck down

-pulled off the inside cover and can see the wires I would potentially need to splice (diagram here) if I wanted to simply bypass the latch

-would like to take a look at the latch itself, see if I can clean it up before i resort to bypassing it. Is it visible from the outside?

-having trouble reaching in the tailgate from the inside; window is up, but what is the best way to look at this setup? I can barely fit my head in there to get a look at the wiring and key setup. I know I can get the window down using a 12v battery directly to the motor, but will this impede my path in looking/working on the electrical system?

All help is much appreciated,

Frisco

 

[miesk5]

yo risco,

WELCOME!

I figure the ignition switch @ bottom of column needs to be tested using this;

Troubleshooting in 87-91 (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM); w/Wiring Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables); miesk5 Note, It is out of order, so read the 2nd from left page first

Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

includes Ign. Switch Removal & Installation

http://broncozone.com/topic/14120-87-91-ignition-switch-info-troubleshooting-guide/

===

TG:

"...If the glass is clear of the shell, but you can't open the t/g, remove the inside access panel & pull these 2 rods inward. Either unclip them from the center mechanism, or pull them like bow strings to release each latch. Make sure the glass isnt so high that it engages the campers groove, or it could break. If it wont come down, unbolt the slides from the glass, or the motor from the regulator to lower the glass..." Miesk5 Note, the bars are referred to as the Latch Rods in most diagrams



Latch Safety Switch "...This is the switch on the driver's latch that prevents the motor from operating with the tailgate open. Ford put it here from ~85 until 96. Before that, it was on the center mechanism and was sensitive to EITHER latch being open. To permanently defeat it (and risk breaking the t/g glass), unplug its connector & install a jumper wire between the 2 sockets.." NOTE; The safety switch was moved from the tailgate handle to the left latch by 1983 by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W)



To permanently defeat it (and risk breaking the t/g glass), unplug its connector & install a jumper wire between the 2 terminals

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/160899

Troubleshooting Synopsis; "...The tail gate circuit is pretty easy to resolve with a meter. Attached is a diagram of the circuit. Note that there are two fuses which you may have already found out. One powers the dash switch which is powered only when the key is in RUN or ACC. The other powers the tail gate switch and that line is hot at all times. If the motor is definitely good, (which can be verified by using a set of jumper leads directly to the motor connector). Once it is verified that the motor works then the common problems are: 1. The Latch Safety switch in the left side latch, This is often a problem when the tail gate fails from both switches.(you can pull the connector and jumper it out, which many people leave permanently jumpers out). The problem can be as easy as the latch needs adjustment. So if the jumper makes it work then either leave it jumped, adjust the latching stud for a tighter fit, or replace the latch switch if testing indicates it is bad. The function of the switch is to make sure the tail gate is latched before putting the window up. I like it bypassed because it makes it easy to get the window out of the way when working inside the tail gate. I think I'm smart enough to put the window back down before closing the tail gate . The only suggestion if leaving it jumped is to support the window if it is in the up position with the tail gate down. Else it could be broken by someone leaning on it. 2. The ground return for the tail gate switch uses the same two lines the dash switch does, (the grounding point is under the dash. The dash switch changes the function of the two leads running to the tail gate window motor by grounding one and putting 12V on the other. The tail gate switch uses the two leads for the ground connection, (it requires the dash switch to be in the neutral position in order to work). Depending on the year of the truck there are 2 or 3 connectors involved that often get corroded, sometimes to the point that the wires break off the connector. In your truck, there is on connector behind the left tail light, the next common failing connector is the one on the left side of the rear frame crossover member, (it is gray, if you can still see the color, and just under and behind the bumper). So to make it short, if you can operate the motor with a set of jumper leads and the window goes up and down that way, then the problem is a connection or the Latch Safety Switch. If you can't get the tail gate open to work on it, crawl in the back and remove the tail gate panel and find the motor leads attached along the bottom edge of the opening. Disconnect them and use a long set of leads or another battery in the back with you to test the motor. Once the window is down you can open the gate to make it more comfortable to work on the problem. In the diagram you will see a black with white striped wire that goes to the tail gate key switch, you should have 12V there at all times. To get at it, you will need the window in the up position. The other two leads, (with the dash switch in the center position) should indicate that they are grounded when doing a continuity check of them). You can also check the entire path from dash switch to the tail gate key switch by using a meter and probing the wires the purple with light green stripe and the dark green with light green stripe. Have someone (with the key in RUN or ACC) moving the Dash switch from UP to Down while you check those leads for 12V. If you don't get 12V then the problem is in a connector between the two switches or a broken wire (a broken wire would most likely be where they transition between the body and tail gate due to constant flexing). The procedure would be; 12V missing on one of the wires, move back to the connector behind the tail light (missing there), move to the connector on the cross member (missing there) move back to the connectors in front, until you find where you have 12V on the line you are probing. Once you find 12V the problem is between the last point probed and where you find 12V..."

Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/topic/7671-tailgate-window-switch/

 

[Seabronc]

You might have to adjust the ignition switch to get all contacts to properly match up. http://broncozone.com/topic/7243-ignition-switch-adjustment-proceedure/

Good luck,

>-