How to start the bronco..

[AdamDude04]

Okay this is quite weird.. Abput the key cylinder/ignition

Before I put my key in, turn and it started with ease. Now, I put my key in, and its very hard to turn past the "on" position. Its also hard to turn back. So hard, Im affraid it wont come back and keep the starter going.

This started last night. Earlier in the day, and years prior, it would be easy to turn. So something happend instantly. Any ideas? Anywhere to spray some wd-40? I have both orig. Keys that came with the truck back in 89 and would hate to swap it out for a new set..

 

[Shadow_D]

Okay this is quite weird.. Abput the key cylinder/ignition

Before I put my key in, turn and it started with ease. Now, I put my key in, and its very hard to turn past the "on" position. Its also hard to turn back. So hard, Im affraid it wont come back and keep the starter going.

This started last night. Earlier in the day, and years prior, it would be easy to turn. So something happend instantly. Any ideas? Anywhere to spray some wd-40? I have both orig. Keys that came with the truck back in 89 and would hate to swap it out for a new set..

My first thought would be that the ignition switch melted somehow. This would cause the stiffness in the key.

There is a rod that follows along the steering column, this rod connects the cylinder (where you put the key) to the actual ignition switch. Find this rod and watch it as you work the key. If the rod bends as you rotate the key to the start position, your switch is the problem. Have you had a burning plastic type smell that you couldn't find?

Next thing you could try is spray WD-40 into the cylinder and try your key again.

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Good info Shadow D!

Here is Ford's TSB on this; esp in cold weather...

Ignition Switch Key Hard to Turn in Cold (in Non-Tilt) TSB 95-23-12 for 89-91 Bronco, F Series, Econoline & Medium, Heavy Duty trucks by Ford via ChiltonISSUE: The ignition key may be hard to turn in cold temperatures on trucks equipped with fixed (non-tilt) steering columns. This occurs because the column lock actuator may not be properly lubricated.

ACTION: Lubricate the column lock actuator with silicone lubricant. Refer to the following procedures for service details.

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.

2. Remove the steering wheel. Refer to the appropriate model year Bronco, Econoline, F-Series Service Manual, Section 13-06 for 1988-90 models and Section 11-04A for 1991 models. Refer to the 1991 F-FT-B 600, 700, 800 Service Manual, Section 13-06 and Section 11-04A for 1992-95 F & B Series vehicles.

3. Remove the two (2) bolts attaching the steering column support brackets to the pedal support bracket.

4. Mark the location of the ignition switch and remove it.

5. Remove the turn signal lever and turn signal switch.

6. Remove the lock cylinder.

7. Remove and throw away the snap ring from the upper steering shaft.

8. Using a light hammer, gently tap the steering shaft until the upper bearing is loose. Remove the upper bearing.

9. Loosen the upper ****** retention nuts until one or two threads remain engaged.

a. Pinch the nuts toward the shaft.

b. Remove the upper ****** from the outer tube.

10. Remove the column lock actuator.

INSTALLATION

1. Clean the grease from the column lock actuator and upper ****** using parts cleaner (F3AZ-19579-SA) or equivalent.

2. Apply silicone lubricant (COAZ-19553-AA) or equivalent to the column lock actuator and upper ****** where the actuator slides.

3. Install the column lock actuator into the upper ******.

4. Install the upper ****** onto the outer ******.

5. Install the steering wheel onto the steering shaft and hand tighten the steering wheel nut.

6. Pull up on the steering wheel until the steering column expands about 10mm (0.375").

7. Remove the steering wheel.

8. Press the upper bearing onto the steering shaft.

9. Install a new snap ring (DOAZ-3C610- B) on the steering shaft.

10. Using a small hammer, gently tap the steering shaft until the upper bearing is seated into the upper ******.

11. Install the lock cylinder.

12. Install the turn signal switch and turn signal lever.

13. Install the ignition switch.

14. Install the two (2) bolts attaching the steering wheel bracket to the pedal bracket.

15. Install the steering wheel.

16. Connect the battery ground cable.

PART NUMBER PART NAME

COAZ-19553-AA Silicone Lubricant

F3AZ-19579-SA Metal Brake Parts Cleaner

DOAZ-3C610-B Snap Ring

& This is Chilton's Version of the switch/act. rod R&R

1.Disconnect the battery ground cable.

2.Remove the steering column shroud and lower the steering column.

3.Disconnect the switch wiring at the multiple plug.

4.Remove the two nuts that retain the switch to the steering column.

5.Lift the switch vertically upward to disengage the actuator rod from the switch and remove the switch.

6.When installing the ignition switch, both the locking mechanism at the top of the column and the switch itself must be in the LOCK position for correct adjustment. To hold the mechanical parts of the column in the LOCK position, move the shift lever into PARK (with automatic transmissions) or REVERSE (with manual transmissions), turn the key to the LOCK position, and remove the key. New replacement switches, when received, are already pinned in the LOCK position by a metal shipping pin inserted in a locking hole on the side of the switch.

7.Engage the actuator rod in the switch.

8.Position the switch on the column and install the retaining nuts, but do not tighten them.

9.Move the switch up and down along the column to locate the mid-position of rod lash, and then tighten the retaining nuts.

10.Remove the locking pin, connect the battery cable, and check for proper start in PARK or NEUTRAL.-Also check to make certain that the start circuit cannot be actuated in the DRIVE and REVERSE position.

11.Raise the steering column into position at instrument panel. Install steering column shroud.

 

[AdamDude04]

Thanks guys!

No burning smell. This just was a random act of something.

 

[nelbur]

I agree that it is just grease that gets stiff when it gets cold. My '86 has been getting harder to turn on cold mornings for the last few years. Yesterday I decided to see if I could do something about it. I know the correct way to fix it is to remove the steering wheel and disassemble and relube the works, however I tried an easy attempt first. On my truck there is a gear at the base of the lock cylinder that works a rack to pull or push the rod to the switch under the dash. My tilt wheel version has a hole in the trim near the base of the cylinder. With the battery disconnected and the switch ON, I pressed a wire into the hole and removed the cylinder. There was a lot of grease at the base of the cylinder and around the gear. I removed all I could and sprayed a light oil (superlube) liberally on and into the gear. I then reinstalled the cylinder and worked it back and forth from start to ACC . It seemed to free up some. The next really cold morning will tell me if the easy fix works.

 

[AdamDude04]

Ill try that. Thing is though, nect day it was 75 and still as stiff. Harder than the normal cold day stiffness..

 

[AdamDude04]

Major issue!!!

So I got my haynes manual out and was able to get my key cylinder out. That turned with ease when out of the system. Put it back in.. Now everything turns with ease (to start the truck) but if turned to the start position, it does nothing. The truck turns on, all electronics, dash lights, but it wont start. It also lost its spring action to kinda make itself return to the run position after it starts.

I found the rod that goes down the top of the steering colum and to a little box with wires comming out of it. Could that box where the rod plugs into be the issue? The rod moves when the key turns..

Need this fixed asap as its may daily driver..

 

[miesk5]

yo Adam

ok

Is it a TILT Column?

check your upper ignition actuator.

Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions.

If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem.

check ignition switch (again, at the base of the column).

Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions.

Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter.

If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily.

& If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to the Park/NSS/MLPS

 

[Seabronc]

>-

Major issue!!!

So I got my haynes manual out and was able to get my key cylinder out. That turned with ease when out of the system. Put it back in.. Now everything turns with ease (to start the truck) but if turned to the start position, it does nothing. The truck turns on, all electronics, dash lights, but it wont start. It also lost its spring action to kinda make itself return to the run position after it starts.

I found the rod that goes down the top of the steering column and to a little box with wires coming out of it. Could that box where the rod plugs into be the issue? The rod moves when the key turns..

Need this fixed asap as its may daily driver..

I'm a little confused here about symptoms other than the stiff part. Could you start it at all before removing the key cylinder? If so, then remove it again and make sure the rod is in the the RUN position before reinserting it, ( The cylinder meshes with gears on the dog that operates the push rod, if the rod isn't in the correct position the key cylinder will not position it properly). It sounds like the rod may have had the switch in the OFF position when you put the key cylinder back in. If it was, then the rod will not travel far enough to put the switch in the START position. The dash, electronics, etc. coming on indicates it the rod only traveled far enough to put the switch the RUN position. If turning the key cylinder all the way to START only made the dash lights, etc. come on, then I suspect the rod wasn't in the proper position when you replaced the key cylinder or the switch on top of the steering column has moved. It is also possible that the switch on the steering column is broken. It has a spring in it that should return the key and switch to the RUN position when the key is released, so make sure that functions also.

Just a note: Ford documentation often uses the terms ON and RUN interchangeably. As you will note on the key cylinder there is no ON it has "ACC LOCK OFF RUN START".

Additional notes about reinstalling the Cylinder Switch. Quoted from the service manual:

1. Lubricate the lock cylinder with grease.

2. To install the lock cylinder, turn the lock cylinder to the ON position and depress the retaining pin, then insert the lock cylinder into its housing in the ****** casting. Assure that the cylinder is fully seated and aligned into the interlocking washer before turning the key to the OFF position. This action will permit the cylinder retaining pin to extend into the cylinder casting housing hole.

3.Using the ignition key, rotate the lock cylinder to insure correct mechanical operation in all positions.

All that should be done with the battery ground cable disconnected.

You could try this procedure to make sure that the switch on top of the steering column is properly positioned, (it may have shifted position slightly). http://broncozone.com/topic/7243-ignition-switch-adjustment-proceedure/

Good luck,

>-

 

[AdamDude04]

Okay, update..

So I removed the ignition switch to expose the rod.. The ignition switch does function. When moved to the start position (using a ***** driver) it does have the strong spring back feeling. So thats all good. I even bought a new one. Mine was the factory from 89 and when doing things like this, I like to replace before it breaks, esp sensors..

Onto the next thing.. The rod has a lot of play in it. With the ignition switch removed, i can move the rod a good distance. When ignition switch installed, if in the lock position (key can be removed)' I turn it to ACC and nothing. To run, and the dash lights turn on (service engine, rear abs, check engine). To start, and it does start the motor. I have to manually pull back to stop the starter. The key turns freely to just about the lock position. Right before, a hair before it turns off thr motor. Radio still on. I turn a little hair back and it clicks to let the key out. If i turn the key back to me, to only turn on the radio and not every electronic, nothing at all happens.

So it looks like my rod is loose somewhere near the key area..

So how the heck do i remove the steering wheel to expose this area? I took off thrpe cover off to expose the inside of the steering wheel with a large nut exposed and some wires to the cruse control and horn.

Ideas??

 

[AdamDude04]

Also, its a AOD with tilt.

May just have a shop do this.. I really dont have the time for something like this if it takes too long.

 

[Seabronc]

I would suggest that you take it to a shop. Not to be offensive, but with your seeming lack of mechanical ability, will get you in big trouble inside a tilt column. You will end up needing a whole new steering column. If you can operate it with a screwdriver then either the switch under the dash is out of position or the gearing on the dog that the key cylinder operates has a problem. Replacing that little dog is not an easy task. Did you attempt any of the procedures I gave to you for alignment?

>-

 

[AdamDude04]

Yeah I fumbled around with it for a couple hours trying to align everything. But like I said my rod has a lot of play in it. I removed the ignition switch and played with the key turning and felt the rod move. I assume its suppost to be fixed and the only movement up or down is with the key?

I got my ignition switch moved so far up the shaft that I can start it, thankfully. But it doesnt have the positions like it used to. With everything in plafe, if i turn the key backwords for ACC (radio only) the rod doesnt even pull back. But this motion will cause a more normal function from the lock to start. Then when the vehicle turned off and restarted, it all gets very sloppy again.

Ive searched the web for replacment parts and write ups to get an idea of how the parts are put together and how it all works. Getting to the upper actuator area looks a bit tricky though..

 

[nelbur]

Adam, there is an adjustment procedure for the switch itself. I don't think there is any way for you to ***** up the installation of the cylinder as the gear is captive in the column and the cylinder just has a flattened shaft that goes into the gear, at least in my '86. I believe a lot of slop between the key and the actual switch, is normal wear. The tilt column has a joint between the rack the gear runs on and the rod that works the switch. My guess is that that is where much of the slop is.

The adjustment for the switch is done with the cylinder in the lock position. The following is from my manual. Of course, disconnect the battery.

1. Rotate the ignition key back and forth to either side of lock, until a (5/64") drill bit can be inserted through the locking pin hole as far as possible(min 3/8"). The lock pin hole is located on the right of the switch next to the steering column tube. [ The picture shows it on the left side from your perspective near the attachment bolts.]

2. Loosen the two mounting nuts.

3. Turn the ignition to LOCK (feel for the detent) and remove the key.

4. Move the switch up and down along the column to locate the mid-position of rod lash and tighten the mounting nuts, top nut first.

5. remove the drill bit.

6.connect the battery and test to be sure everything works as it should.

Hope this helps.

 

[AdamDude04]

Well I got it to half ass start with no problem. Only works if the steering wheel is tilted down where I normally have it while driving.

I tried the adjustment with the switch with no success. It says to lock it with a drill bit as I did, but with the key in the lock position, the rod wouldnt ever fit that length.

 

[AdamDude04]

Ugh lol just when I thought I had it gehtto rigged to start, I washed up and waited for the midnight release. Warmed up the truck.. Damn thing wont shift out of park. I assume the actuator gear is broken preventing the column shifter from shifting?

After reading a few writeups, I learned I dont have the tools needed to remove the steering column so I'll be calling the shop tomorrow. Hopefully it will be a hundred or so bucks.. Labor is the killer. Not the $10 part!

 

[Seabronc]

Ugh lol just when I thought I had it gehtto rigged to start, I washed up and waited for the midnight release. Warmed up the truck.. Damn thing wont shift out of park. I assume the actuator gear is broken preventing the column shifter from shifting?

After reading a few writeups, I learned I dont have the tools needed to remove the steering column so I'll be calling the shop tomorrow. Hopefully it will be a hundred or so bucks.. Labor is the killer. Not the $10 part!

Way To Go / . Every thing you say points to the rod position or a broken part :-&

>-

 

[AdamDude04]

Well the Bronco left the driveway at 3:50pm today. Headed off to the mechanics. Theyll call me tomorrow to tell me whats wrong an how much to fix. I like to know whats broken or possible things before it goes to the shop so I can avoid getting charged extra what I dont need..

 

[AdamDude04]

Update. Both peices by the key tumbler were broken.

Not sure of the price. I know the aluminum peice is 10 $ so shouldnt be too much..