How to pull codes

[AdamDude04]

Okay so I did the self test per the manual.

I have an idle issue. Truck ran like a charm today. It started right up, idles perfectly fine, shifted so smooth I couldn't even feel it switch gears. Drove it a couple miles to warm it up. Got it up to operating temp and it drove/shifted fine.

Parked the truck in the driveway and let it idle..after a few minutes, it started to idle funny. It hung out around 750-800rpm at idle (when in D it's around 600rpm) then it started to idle rough, and toss between 700 and 1000rpm. Never jumped up high, or went any lower. While it was doing that, I put the truck in D and it idles around 600rpm (like normal). However, I didn't drive it. BUT if I did, I'm sure it'd do the same thing as before where I'm giving it gas driving like grandma, and while accelerating, it wants to act like I'm giving it enough gas to get up to 1500rpm..then down to 1300rpm, then up to 1500rpm. You can see why this issue is annoying, especially while driving around town. Getting ******* the gas, or highway driving it doesn't do anything, at least not to notice.

SO SELF TEST..I figured, best test is the one with the motor running.

Per my manual, it says to turn the key on, let it idle, and watch for the ID code (4 flashes). Then press/depress the brake. Following that, turn the steering wheel at least half a turn so it can test that sensor. Then watch and wait for a quick flash (which I saw) which means, a "brief WOT" test - So mash the gas I did.

Spit me some codes, two actually.

77

77

OPERATOR ERROR. What am I doing wrong???? I have an E4OD tranny and a steering pressure sensor (the brake pedel/turning steering wheel test). So why the error?

I also did the KOEO test as well, being the motor was already up to opert. temps. Only got codes 11, and 11 which is System Pass

Ideas? Tips or tricks??

:huh:

 

[miesk5]

Adam; was the engine at normal op temp when you ran the KOER portion? guessing it was since you did take time to read the Self-Test Instructions.

Try it again; 77 Brief WOT not sensed during Self-Test / Operator error.

For the PS Press SW; check your PS Pump to see if a switch is located on the hi pressure port; some 5.0's don't have it at all; can't see your year in Reply Mode..so...

GL!

------

Okay so I did the self test per the manual.
I have an idle issue. Truck ran like a charm today. It started right up, idles perfectly fine, shifted so smooth I couldn't even feel it switch gears. Drove it a couple miles to warm it up. Got it up to operating temp and it drove/shifted fine.

Parked the truck in the driveway and let it idle..after a few minutes, it started to idle funny. It hung out around 750-800rpm at idle (when in D it's around 600rpm) then it started to idle rough, and toss between 700 and 1000rpm. Never jumped up high, or went any lower. While it was doing that, I put the truck in D and it idles around 600rpm (like normal). However, I didn't drive it. BUT if I did, I'm sure it'd do the same thing as before where I'm giving it gas driving like grandma, and while accelerating, it wants to act like I'm giving it enough gas to get up to 1500rpm..then down to 1300rpm, then up to 1500rpm. You can see why this issue is annoying, especially while driving around town. Getting ******* the gas, or highway driving it doesn't do anything, at least not to notice.

SO SELF TEST..I figured, best test is the one with the motor running.

Per my manual, it says to turn the key on, let it idle, and watch for the ID code (4 flashes). Then press/depress the brake. Following that, turn the steering wheel at least half a turn so it can test that sensor. Then watch and wait for a quick flash (which I saw) which means, a "brief WOT" test - So mash the gas I did.

Spit me some codes, two actually.

77

77

OPERATOR ERROR. What am I doing wrong???? I have an E4OD tranny and a steering pressure sensor (the brake pedel/turning steering wheel test). So why the error?

I also did the KOEO test as well, being the motor was already up to opert. temps. Only got codes 11, and 11 which is System Pass

Ideas? Tips or tricks??

:huh:

 

[AdamDude04]

Thanks guys.. I'll give it a wing today and see what it does!

 

[billmcg]

Adam, i've got the same yr/model you have and have been trouble shooting numerous things along the same lines. I was getting the rpm jumps and have been replacing vacuum lines ( I don't like the idea of sprayin' flammable substances in the engine compartment to check for leaks..*carb cleaner*). Mayhaps your brake resevoir line is loose on the ends or has a hole (would cause rpm rise and fall), check powersteering vacuums too, might cause a fail on the KO test. Just throwing stuff out there...i'm by no means a professional car mechanic but i'm slowly learning about this system.

 

[AdamDude04]

Adam, i've got the same yr/model you have and have been trouble shooting numerous things along the same lines. I was getting the rpm jumps and have been replacing vacuum lines ( I don't like the idea of sprayin' flammable substances in the engine compartment to check for leaks..*carb cleaner*). Mayhaps your brake resevoir line is loose on the ends or has a hole (would cause rpm rise and fall), check powersteering vacuums too, might cause a fail on the KO test. Just throwing stuff out there...i'm by no means a professional car mechanic but i'm slowly learning about this system.

Finally someone else with the same setup as me! ^_^ /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

I'll look into those things, altho they don't seem to pose a problem at the moment... However (don't have my manual infront of me) I did get a code about a year ago..44 or 55. Power steering switch something or another - Clearly an issue that was cought, though unsure of the exact meaning. Never snagged the code again in the past year under 3 KO tests.

A good way to look for vaccume leaks is a 3 or 4 ft garden hose and you just move it around listening for a HISS sound. Or a really soapy/water mixture as the water will go anywhere you want, and the soap in it will make some noticable bubbles in order to find a vaccum leak.

I'm planning to convert all my vacum hoses to the clear hose stuff that way the tubes are new, AND if can see if you're getting any smoke/fluid/dirt in areas there should only be air.

You got a photo of your truck? I'd be intersted to see! I'll take one of my Bronco today and post up.. it's looking clean as a whistle under this lovely sun today /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Idle issues like this are often a vacuum leak, could also be a bad TPS, or even a MAP sensor, but I'd bet on either a vacuum leak, or a dirty sticky IAC.

What does the IAC do? How does it work?

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=39

Check and clean your IAC

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/8/1...er_IAC_Fix.html

TheOldWizard Has some issues with the video I'll link to below, and while I agree with him, I think that overall the video is helpful and worth looking at.

First, the example Idle Air Control/Bypass (IAC/IAB) motor they showed during most of the video is very different from the style used on most (all?) Ford vehicles. They showed a Ford design briefly and described it as one with an internal pintle.
Second, they said specifically not to spray cleaner on IAC with internal pintles. BS ! Any carb cleaner will work. Most will dry quickly. Just make certain to not leave any gunk.

Third, I have seen IACs work properly when warm, but stick when cold so their suggested testing procedures may not be perfect. In other words, you could pass all of the tests and still have a sticking IAC when cold.

youtube video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=406BTo4JE3A...player_embedded

Tips for Checking for vacuum leaks.

Some of the sensors and some of the actuators either read the amount of vacuum, or use vacuum to move controls, therefore it is important to the proper functioning of the engine that your vacuum system is fully intact. Otherwise one may get codes falsely indicating that there is a problem with a controller/actuator, or a sensor when in reality it is caused by a lack of vacuum.

Look at your rubber vacuum hoses (they are about 1/4 - 3/8 inches in diameter, if they are dry rotted or cracked, replace them. IF they slip on/off of their connectors too easily, they may have stretched out a little bit, cut the ends off, and put them back on.

You may listen for a leak. Sometimes using a cut off piece of garden hose is a good aid to listen with. Sometimes a cardboard tube (like from gift wrapping paper) is helpful. Just remember that whenever you stick your head inside a running engine compartment, that you are not wearing any loose clothing or jewelry that can get caught.

Another suggestion is to use a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the bottom of the intake manifold, and the base of the throttle body assembly. IF there is a leak, you should hear a change in your engine.

Keep a fire extinguisher handy, or use water instead of carb cleaner (it works, but not as well.) Be aware that if you use water and the wires get wet and it runs worse... your wires may be bad, and the water is allowing them to arc instead of jump the gap of the spark plug.

Another suggestion is: to take a propane torch, turn it on (but don't light it) and move it over the vacuum hoses and connections. The engine RPM's will increase if there is a leak and the propane gets sucked in.

Courtesy of TheOldWizard ford-forums... Don't forget to remind folks to check the PCV valve, hose and grommet !

Courtesy Ramnasal ford-forums... Clamp off the hose that runs to the vacuum booster (brake booster) or pull it and plug it. It is possible that the diaphram on the inside of the booster may go bad and cause a vacuum leak.

And one more place that is not always obvious is that the vacuum reserve canister in older vehicles sometimes rots out and leaks, but rarely gets checked. In older vehicles it looks like a metal juice can, in newer vehicles it is made of plastic.