What part has the crack?
You do have to repair the problem, but there is no need to convert to all new parts when changing to R134. The compressor, condensor, and evaporator can all remain as well as all the hoses. (assuming they are all in good shape)
YOU MUST CHANGE THE ACCUMULATOR, or reciever/dryer. It has to be changed any time a system is opened. It is very wise to change the expansion valve too when doing a conversation. There is a difference between the R12 and R134 tubes. It may not be perceptable, but there is a difference, and they are cheep. (less than $4).
The system MUST be flushed with a non residual solvent, and blown dry with compressed air. It's best to do the hoses,condenser, and evap. separatly. Remove the compressor and turn it to drain the oil. Catch the oil in some container. This is important for later. Let it sit and drain for an hour or so. the longer the better. (just don't leave it for a week.)
Refill the compressor with the proper oil. Esther, or Ice34, about an amount equil to what you drained out. Do NOT REUSE THE OLD OIL....FOR ANYTHING! dispose of properly (there, Im safe)
Add another couple ounces of oil to the accuumulator, just dribble it in, and replace the caps until you are ready to install.
Do not add more total oil than the system should have. Find the recommended volume on a sticker ,or look it up. Usually it's about 8oz. but find out.
Use new o rings and seals when reassmbling. **** them well in the refrigerent oil, never use them dry.
When you have it all back together, the system MUST BE VACCUMED, for at least 45 min. prefered an hour. This will boil out any moisture.
Then check to see if the system will hold at least 30hz of vac. for 20 min.
If it does the system is tight and you can begin the recharge with the proper amount of R134.
I have done this to convert some of my other older cars and get a great result. Air that's cold enough to make the wife complain...even here in Fla.
Good luck It really isn't a hard job. Much easier than changing a cam or manifold.