Hey Guys..

[HGM]

I recently started the restoration of my '73 Bronco. So, I thought I'd feed on the wealth of knoledge here.. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions, but I've also got 15yrs of dealer experience and another 8 of new product training. I'm not affraid to admit I dont know it all, but I've seen a thing or two and I'll be glad to help out where I can..

Greg

 

[Bronc76]

Good luck on the resto!

 

[Seabronc]

Welcome to the Zone > . Feed us some pictures, we'd like to :-B at them.

Good luck,

>-

 

[HGM]

Thanks guys... I've just spent the weekend tinkering with it.. Might need a little words of wisdom from the veterans... I keep cutting and planning then running into new sections that "might as well be done while I'm there"....

A little history and outlook.. I've had this particular '73 for 20yrs. My dad got it for us when I got out of high school and we used it for a swamp buggy in the Everglades.. In fact, our buddy's had it out there for the last 15.. Honestly, the Glades were easier on it than the years before we got it. The guy we got it from had rolled it. So, it needs the front clip (I've got the parts from a '71 donor) and reartail light pannels because of that. The floorboards are solid, but ventilated and need to be replaced. The rear quarter seams need attention, I think I need to replace them too..

My overall plans have always been to modernize it and have a nice weekend truck. Its going to get a Explorer 5.0 and 4R70W. I've spent the last 20yrs working on Fords, so that doesnt scare me in the least.. I've also acquired he parts for a 4 wheel disc conversion to help stop it.. It's the bodywork that has me out of my element. Though I like a challenge and have always wanted to learn..

I figure I'll become close with the guys at Eastwood but any suggestions on when to say thats good enough would be more than welcome...

Thanks again guys, I'll be in and out of here a bit I'm sure.. Seems like a wealth of knowledge here..

 

[Seabronc]

I've been working on rebuilding my 83 for over a year now removing all rusted sections, replacing quarter panels, body mounts, etc. So I guess it all depends on what you want the final product to look like and how long you want it to last.

I'm not a professional body man, just too dumb to know when to quit :wacko: . Still working on it :-"

Good luck on your project.

>-

 

[HGM]

I've been working on rebuilding my 83 for over a year now removing all rusted sections, replacing quarter panels, body mounts, etc. So I guess it all depends on what you want the final product to look like and how long you want it to last.

I'm not a professional body man, just too dumb to know when to quit :wacko: . Still working on it :-"

Good luck on your project.

>-

Wow, big project you've got there too... I'm having fun with it so far. But everytime I have to drill 500 spot welds (exaduration) to get one small pannel off, I wonder how important that particular piece it.. I've got most of the metal I need on the donor truck, so I've got to drill everything twice.. I am using good spotweld bits, so it is what it is I guess.. I can see me buying a plasma cutter before its all over though /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> ....

Any tips for measuring the metal to cut out, in order to make it match from one to the other?? Paper template??

 

[Seabronc]

Any tips for measuring the metal to cut out, in order to make it match from one to the other?? Paper template??

For internal stuff like floorboards I just cut out the rusted sections and put a new piece that was about 1" larger. I didn't weld, since that is always a starting point for rust, also welding can easily warp the metal, so if you are not a real good panel welder you make a mess of the job :-& . Welds cause galvanic rust due to the transfer of electrons through them. The main reason for that transfer is using the body panels for the ground return on lights. I used structural epoxy,(Fusor 112B), and blind rivets.

For external patches, you want to cut out the rusted area and then use a flanging tool to make an easy transition when filling in with body putty, and dimpling tool to hide the rivits. Cut the replacement metal to fit inside the flanged area. That also makes it easier to do a smooth fill that doesn't have to be feathered out too far. I also use a product called, (Picklex 20), to prep any metal exposed by sanding prior to priming. Picklex 20, kills any flash rust, (microscopic rust that you can't see which starts the minute you expose the bare metal). I have painted over areas that I didn't prep that way and I always find a rust bleed through any where from 6 months to a year later. It took me a while to find out the reason for that.

Good luck on the project and post some pictures as you go.

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