HELP ME!!!!

[brichardson7]

Here's my dilema, first a general run down, 79 Bronco, 351M, 4"suspension, 3" body, 38" TSL's w/ Detriot locked 4:56's F & R &lt

.......Now, my problem, I go through universals like underwear it seems(1 joint every 2 months) under dailey driving ( . Am in the process of taking pics to show everyone, but my rear pinion angle doesn't look bad at all, there's no bind when I turn the drive shaft or anything. My parts guy said it could be the angle of the pinion, but as stated above, I don't think so.

Was curious if I was getting some sort of axle wrap under acceleration or something, ....is that possible? And if so, would that cause me to blow through u joints? Would ladder bars.

Forgive me, I'm a former Jeep guy, so my fullsize knowledge is a little off, If anyone can help.....PLEASE DO [-o<

 

[BLADE262US]

Yes axle wrap is very likely what you have going on there especially if the lift was done with blocks and the springs are already a little weak with age . A true ladder bar is not needed you can make mounts that weld to the axle and then go about 4 inches in front of the front spring mount and make another mount there then use 1 inch heavy walled chromemoly tubing and have it tapped 3/4/16 left hand on one side and 3/4/16 right hand on the other and you will have to buy the heim joints for them and install thats what I have done on all mine and it works great have never bent a bar and there is no axle wrap . A true ladder bar requires that the axle be able to float in the housing so if you clamp onlets say a setof L&L ladder bars they look cool but will end up putting your suspension travel in a bind . When the axle goes up the distance of your bar gets shorter so that wont work very well . Look back through the introductions and find my post there with my 91 bronco its got alot of blue and yellow powdercoat work done to it and you will see the bars under it . Works for me /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Broncoholics]

Yup, I had the same problem; got some good traction bars and I never break u-joints. Don't get the ones that mount on top of the leaf spring u-bolts and connects to the front leaf spring mount on the frame. They break very easy. Do like BLADE said or buy a simular type from axle tube housing to frame.

Also, jack up the rear bumper or frame so both rear tires are in the air.

Now put the turck in nutral and trun the rear driveline. See if its binding now. If so, every bump you bounce over can bind the driveline at high speeds which will wear it out fast or break on the spot. Usually the front is the worst due to the short length between axle and t-case. Check it as well.

 

[79F150]

My first question to you is when your suspenion lift was installed did you/or they reinstall your factory wedge blocks. I have 450 ftlbs of torque going through my spooled rear end with 4:56 gears and no problems. If you do not have that wedge block then you need to go get one out of a junk yard and put it back or cut the purches off the axle and rotate you axle to correct angle. If this is the problem.