Headlight switch ? PLZ Help

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bigtrux

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Here's the deal I have a 93 bronco w/351 A few months back my switch went bad when i turn on my headlights the headlights come on but the dash lights and taillights don't come on. I replaced the switched and here i am a few months later the same thing. Brakelights work and so do turn signals. I"m not very good when it comes to electrical crap. but around the same time the switch went bad last time i was blowing a fuse under the hood but i couldn't start the truck i know it was a 20 amp fuse. it hasn't blown this time but has anyone dealt with this before. It's been suggested to me that the voltage regulator in my alt is going bad any help would be appreaciated i'm getting ready to drive to cali and already have to dump money into an exhuast with cats damn cali emmisions. Thanks IN advance Kevin

 

racebreedbronco

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have you verified the tail lamp fuse is ok? check there first, then inspect the wire harness to the under hood lamp, the insulation fails near the back of the hood, wires short together and blows the circuit

 

Seabronc

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Where did you get the switch from? It could be a connector problem, try re-seating the connector on the switch. Another possibility is the through the wall connector, they get corroded and it may need cleaning and re-seating.

Good luck,

:) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

miesk5

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Good call Seab!

some other info on this;

"...1993 Ford F-150 parking lights and dome ,instrument panel guages lights out. Fuse ok Removed headlight switch and found a burn spot on the headlight switch connector due likey to heat caused by resistance. Replaced the headlight switch the burnt spot was not too bad and was cleaned up and put back into service. The lights work properly now, but we must momitor them due to the high likelyhood of fire with ford headlight switches .."

by Randy

&

"...The light switch involved is a Model SW-2103. These are the pull out type headlight switches usually located in the lower left corner of the front dash of Ford vehicles. The headlight portion of the switch has two pullout positions, the first for parking lights only, and fully out for headlights and parking lights. The shaft of this pull-out light switch can be turned clockwise and counterclockwise which activates a dimmer switch, lowering and raising the intensity of the lighting in the instrument panels respectively. Fully rotating the shaft counterclockwise past a notch activates the interior lights within the vehicles. The potential problem exists within the dimmer portion of this switch.

The dimmer mechanism consists of a metallic resistive coil set inside a ceramic disc positioned over the shaft of the switch. The coil is exposed on its front side away from the passenger compartment. The front side of the coil passes across a contact permitting a current to flow through a certain portion of the coil when the switch is pulled our in its first or second positions. The greater amount of coil through which the current is permitted to pass (clockwise most position) creates the greatest resistance and therefore dims the dash lighting to its lowest intensity. The opposite position provides greatest intensity.

Through our investigations, we have found that the coil can fail owing to wear and/or possible material defects or damage. A fractured coil can maneuver itself free of the ceramic disc permitting it to come in contact with the metal bracket which mounts and grounds the switch to the vehicle. When this occurs, a current can flow through a portion of the coil creating high temperatures melting the metal material of the coil and possibly igniting surrounding combustibles. This mechanism has been observed in three separate incidents by this office. Two of these resulted in a fire.

The mechanism is precipitated by wear and/or defect in the coil mechanism. If the former is true, we expect there will be an increase in fires caused through this mechanism given an increase in service time. To this date the problem appears to be somewhat limited. However, this particular light switch has been utilized in numerous Ford vehicles. Therefore, a small increase in failure rate owing to age and wear could result in a significant increase in fire losses..."

waltersforensic.com

btw SW 2103 replaces Ford E7TZ-11654B and it is still listed in Ford's Motorcraft catalog....geez!

 
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bigtrux

bigtrux

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Here's the deal I have a 93 bronco w/351 A few months back my switch went bad when i turn on my headlights the headlights come on but the dash lights and taillights don't come on. I replaced the switched and here i am a few months later the same thing. Brakelights work and so do turn signals. I"m not very good when it comes to electrical crap. but around the same time the switch went bad last time i was blowing a fuse under the hood but i couldn't start the truck i know it was a 20 amp fuse. it hasn't blown this time but has anyone dealt with this before. It's been suggested to me that the voltage regulator in my alt is going bad any help would be appreaciated i'm getting ready to drive to cali and already have to dump money into an exhuast with cats damn cali emmisions. Thanks IN advance Kevin

Hey thanks For the advice guys I always appreciate it I'll look into this weekened hopefully i can Figure it out. On one note when it went bad last time all i did was install rhw new one and everything worked like normal I will check fuses and that link by the firewall i did rip the motor out a yr ago coulda bumped it or something Thanks Again

:D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> Trux

 

barrett86

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have that problem, can you get the dash and rear lghts to turn on if you slowly pull the switch out, mine you have to get it in that right spot for all the lights to come on.and i put a new plug in and it does the same damn thing.

 

Seabronc

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have that problem, can you get the dash and rear lghts to turn on if you slowly pull the switch out, mine you have to get it in that right spot for all the lights to come on.and i put a new plug in and it does the same damn thing.
You probably should have put a new switch in.

Good luck,

:) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
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bigtrux

bigtrux

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You probably should have put a new switch in.
Good luck,

:) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
well i feell dumb what i found out slowing down and having the time i found one of the wires was backing out on the connector to the switch when i was installing it. so when i replaced the switch last time i made it have contact but after driving on bumpy azz roads it musta backed off again i made suure it was in there tight after installing the connector and it's worked fine since. just one stupid loose wire lol thanks for everyones advice . trux

 

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