Fuel Pump Relay

[Jonas148]

Talked to Ford parts counter here (San Antonio, TX)today, gave the part number on the Fuel pump relay (E3TB9345A2A), they told me 123 bucks!!!... and they didn't even have it. That ******* so I went to Advance Auto by the base, different shape of relay on the connector side, and same with the Auto Zone near my home. I have looked at three different relays that were all supposed to be replacement parts... no luck.

Has anyone found that the BWD part number R647 works? The connection end is different than the OEM part, but 123 bucks doesn't even sound like what I have read on here...(30 ish)...

Ideas? Comments? Suggestions?

<<<<update>>>>

I changed the relay and it still isn't starting, I don't know what on earth could be keep the beast from running. I dont have any really good schematics either. does anyone have a pinout of the fuel system with multimeter checks? Also, does the column (ignition) switch have anything to do with the fuel relay? I had to adjust the column switch, as the key wouldn't even turn the engine over. Now it does but doesn't start though.... Help!

Thanks.

Jason

 

[50joe]

Are they just selling you the relay,or the relay and repair harness kit? There was a problem with the mid to late 80's fords with the fuel pump relays and harness, and I'm pretty sure the only way they sell it now is a new relay with the updated harness.

 

[Jonas148]

Are they just selling you the relay,or the relay and repair harness kit? There was a problem with the mid to late 80's fords with the fuel pump relays and harness, and I'm pretty sure the only way they sell it now is a new relay with the updated harness.

No, no repair kit for the harness, or upgrade kit... just the relay. The guys behind the counter don't know about that here. I keep on praying I come across a parts place with a bronco in the employee parking. I would feel alot better. I have had this bronco for one month... that is the extent of my "Bronco-ness"

 

[bobstrat]

can you hear the fuel pump when you turn the key?

 

[miesk5]

No Start Troubleshooting ; "...

, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem.

Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column).

Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily. & If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to a park/neutral safety switch. If it's a stick, check the clutch switch.

You could try jumping from hot (MIESK5 NOTE: BATTY + TERMINAL , see my pic below) to the small terminal on the Relay to test it's operation. If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a Relay issue (Bad part, bad ground).

If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or MLPS on a 90 with an E4OD). There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the safety switch, to the small terminal on the solenoid. Disconnect the small wire to the solenoid (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is..."

Source: by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong

Use jumper where those RED & BLACK Insulators are

 

[LaxBronc]

I JUST had the same problem after changing out a fuel pump. I still couldn't get it to start at all. Mine just turned out to be a bad fuse that kicked on the fuel pump. Replaced it and now it runs great. Check that out. Hope it helps

 

[Jonas148]

Miesk5 I will be checking that out tomorrow... I hope its something silly. I just filled up the tank and got home and this thing started acting up... that's a lot of gas. I couldn't get it to start up. the actuator is good, I checked that first. My next issue is that setting the proper position on the ignition switch on the column, any tips there? I bought a new one because I don't know if its good or not, and the one I bought has a lifetime warranty.

When I put gas in it it wouldn't start back up with the key, I jumped the solenoid to get home, and that was the last time she fired up. I checked the fuses, they were good, and replaced the relay just to be sure. No luck there, so now I have a spare <_< I just need to make sure the PO (s) never hacked the wiring harness too much.

 

[Seabronc]

Can you hear either fule pump kick in when you turn the key? It could also be the inertia switch has popped, or one of your fuel pumps is bad.

Good luck,

>-

 

[2percent]

Had same problem mine turned out to be the eec had burnt up. $50 at junk yard I was running again.

 

[Jonas148]

Well I am still no closer to hearing the bronc run again. I found a EVTM on eBay for 25 bucks and snatched it up. It should be here on Monday. Today while it was nice outside I just went out and looked around, cleaned up the posts on the battery, starter solenoid, and the fusible links. I heard the EEC relay click, but still no fuel. How can I check the fuel pump wiring by the tank? I just want to rule out the possibility that it is not getting power.

Could I have fried something jumping the solenoid to get her started the last time she ran?

Also, the steering column, is the non-tilt easy to use (I am already tired of the tilt column!)? I dont want to change it if the fixed column is a pain in butt to steer with.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

jonas,

Here's a tip. When someone who is trying to help you asks a question, do your best to try to answer them.

Bobstrat, and Seabronc both asked you a question, and you did not answer or acknowledge either of them, as a result, although I have questions and based upon the answers I get from you, I would probably have suggestions that I could make; but since you don't answer questions, I won't waste my time.

Good luck.

 

[miesk5]

try this to see if the FP powers up & runs

at the Diagnostic Link Connector in 84-95; "...Connect FP Relay to any ground to force the fuel pump(s) on when the key is in RUN..."

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/245234



It is also poss to hear em run when doing a Self Test by BroncoJoe19 do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first & Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

 

[Jonas148]

Bronco Joe,

Please don't waste either of our time. I am trying to fix my truck, unfortunately I am without help. Please read below....

Ok, well to answer Seabronc.... I cant hear anything, that's not saying much, because I have lost most of my high frequency hearing in Iraq, and unless it sounds really loud, I have never heard it when the ol'bronc was running anyway.

Bobstrat, same... I cant hear anything back there, It isn't that I wouldn't answer you. I don't have any help here so to lay up under the truck and have someone else turn the key just isn't going to get it.

I bought a code reader, its never has worked pulling codes that is. I have a digital multimeter, which will not help with the under the hood diagnostic test, besides the code reader doesn't even work. I have tried to ground the test connector, well the single connector, but it didn't help. I did check the voltage drops across the fuses, and pulled every fuse.

Based off of that, I don't know what the heck the PO did to this thing. There are a couple of switches that are hard wired in, but I think they went to some stereo equipment. The Steering column switch is in, the actuator isn't broken, I have tried adjusting it, and it will turn over, but turning the key all the way back will not give any accessory power. There is not a stereo in it so I don't know if it will power that in ACC position. The harness connector is in crappy shape, I have been pushing each individual wire down with a pair of needle nosed pliers.

It ran for about 4 days, that I tried to start it and run it, over a one month timeframe, the last time I drove it it would do anything at the gas station, so I jumped the solenoid fired right up, I got home and shut it off. I tried to start it up and it didn't.

 

[Jonas148]

I will try to ground the pumps if the weather holds up... there's usually standing water under my bronc until it quits raining.

I should have my EVTM tomorrow too.

Thanks for helping out Miesk5.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Bronco Joe,

Please don't waste either of our time. I am trying to fix my truck, unfortunately I am without help. Please read below....

Ok, well to answer Seabronc.... I cant hear anything, that's not saying much, because I have lost most of my high frequency hearing in Iraq, and unless it sounds really loud, I have never heard it when the ol'bronc was running anyway.

Bobstrat, same... I cant hear anything back there, It isn't that I wouldn't answer you. I don't have any help here so to lay up under the truck and have someone else turn the key just isn't going to get it.

I bought a code reader, its never has worked pulling codes that is. I have a digital multimeter, which will not help with the under the hood diagnostic test, besides the code reader doesn't even work. I have tried to ground the test connector, well the single connector, but it didn't help. I did check the voltage drops across the fuses, and pulled every fuse.

Based off of that, I don't know what the heck the PO did to this thing. There are a couple of switches that are hard wired in, but I think they went to some stereo equipment. The Steering column switch is in, the actuator isn't broken, I have tried adjusting it, and it will turn over, but turning the key all the way back will not give any accessory power. There is not a stereo in it so I don't know if it will power that in ACC position. The harness connector is in crappy shape, I have been pushing each individual wire down with a pair of needle nosed pliers.

It ran for about 4 days, that I tried to start it and run it, over a one month timeframe, the last time I drove it it would do anything at the gas station, so I jumped the solenoid fired right up, I got home and shut it off. I tried to start it up and it didn't.

Jonas,

If you lost your hearing defending our country, my hat is off to you, and I hope that our country is paying you an adequate disability compensation.

You will find the EVTM an excellent resource.

IF you explained your inability to hear if the fuel pump is working or not, that would have brought us to the next step in troubleshooting. You can check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail with a fuel pressure guage. IF you do not have one, or have access to one, you MIGHT be able to get one from autozone. They have a tool loaner program, where you leave a deposit for the tool but get it back. They might have a fuel pressure guage you can borrow. Your fuel pressure should be at a minimum 30-35 psi.

Regarding your code reader. You do not need one. I wrote a tutorial on how to pull codes without a code reader.

If it does nto work, it is possible that you are not getting power as you should to the data link connector. IF not, then you will need to check your fuses. I'll post a link on how to check fuses quickly with a test light. Often the DLC is on the same fuse as the cigar lighter. IF your cigar lighter does not work, a blown fuse to it might be the reason why you code reader didn't work.

How to scan FORD on board Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in your driveway

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&showtopic=14269&view=findpost&p=74587

 

[BroncoJoe19]

I am stunned at your cost for a fuel pump relay.

I checked at autozone.com it was 12.99

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Fuel+Delivery&fromType=parts&fromString=search&parentId=49-0&currentPage=1&filterByKeyWord=fuel+pump+relay&isSearchByPartNumber=false&navValue=14901258&categoryNValue=14999999&fromWhere=&itemId=1258-0&displayName=Relay+-+Fuel+Pump&searchText=fuel+pump+relay

How to check a fuel pump relay

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14905

 

[BroncoJoe19]

It ran for about 4 days, that I tried to start it and run it, over a one month timeframe, the last time I drove it it would do anything at the gas station, so I jumped the solenoid fired right up, I got home and shut it off. I tried to start it up and it didn't.

 

 

I am unclear on what your issue is. When it won't start is it becuase it doesn't crank?

Will it always start if you jump the fender mounted starter relay?

When it won't crank did you ever try holdint the shift lever higher into park? IF so did that work?

 

[50joe]

Hey Jonas, first off, my hats off to you for doing what you do for the rest of us. Second off, all anyone here wants to do is help. I know a ton of questions can get aggravating, but we all have to work off what we have to go on. If you can no longer hear, that is a great bit of info for us to go on. This is a great site for info, and BroncoJoe is a great person to help figure things out. All of us here want to help each other, but the communication can be hard at times. We ask a lot of stupid questions, but, it helps everyone eliminate the obvious, plus give us a feel of the skills of the person we are dealing with. We get all kinds on this site, and want to help all of them. Please bear with everyone, because in the long run, the silly questions do help. Thank you again for all you have done, and I promise, with a lil patience, we'll help figure this out.

 

[Jonas148]

I am stunned at your cost for a fuel pump relay.

I checked at autozone.com it was 12.99

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Fuel+Delivery&fromType=parts&fromString=search&parentId=49-0&currentPage=1&filterByKeyWord=fuel+pump+relay&isSearchByPartNumber=false&navValue=14901258&categoryNValue=14999999&fromWhere=&itemId=1258-0&displayName=Relay+-+Fuel+Pump&searchText=fuel+pump+relay

How to check a fuel pump relay

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14905

I was too. I found the BWD brand relay for 11 bucks. I called ford first and asked for the part number, and that was the price he gave me. Thats not saying he didn't fat finger it or whatever either...