Ford OEM tailgate window motor disassembly

[Smafugula]

Hey guys,


1986 Bronco 5.0l 302

So my back window stopped going up or down the other day. Could here the motor trying to work, sounded like it was skipping. Today I took the window out and got to the motor to inspect. Ran the motor outside of the tailgate and it spun both ways up and down. Slow but still at a good speed it seemed.

My question is should I take the motor apart to inspect the bearings inside? I’d prefer to keep the OG motor. I have a Chinese replacement but it doesn’t even line up to the bolts.

Anyways trying to figure out what to do here. The metal guides where the square plastic pieces ride in were gummed up to **** and back. Wondering if I just put everything back together magic will happen and all will be good.

Any insight is greatly appreciated

 

[miesk5]

Yo Smafugula
Here is part 1.
Motor Torque Pin (also called Nylon Bushing) Info & pic; "...fixed it for free some fuel line and a few small cunks of a bolt. Here is a closeup of the bad parts. in the points of the triangle there should be 3 round pins. this help cousion the window from motor shock. I cleaned all the old grease out of the motor and the final drive. my final drive was fine so i was going to reuse it. To rebuild for almost free here is all you need. some fuel line and some steel rod or round spacer (this keeps the fuel line from colapsing completely) i cut the fuel line to the height of the drive gear housing and cut the spacers from round stock i had on the bench. the steel spacers go inside of the rubber fuel line. then the rubber fuel line and steel spacers go in the final drive gear.this was a tight fit but not too tight..."
Source: by Michael C (collinsperformance, The Money Monster) at Another rear window question - FSB Forums

Check weatherstrip for grime, lack of lubrication. Clean ws with water/Dawn

Ford does recommend, "Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) and D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the door and window weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing between the glass and the weatherstrip. It also helps to retain glass alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and the rubber weatherstrip. Use Multi-Purpose Grease Spray D7AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C106-B to lubricate door and tailgate hinges. Apply an even coat to all hinge pivot points as outlined in the maintenance schedules or when a binding or squeaking condition occurs..."
miesk5 note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now, esp if from China.

Apply dry (Teflon) spray to the flocked surfaces that touch the glass; it prevents noise & abrasion, and allows the glass to move faster; take off the TG access cover and spray Tri-Flow in the tracks on either side so the regulator toggles slide up and down easy" by JKossarides RIP Friend...

The best grease for the slides & tracks ON THE GLASS is PTFE.

Is window regulator rusted badly? If so, clean it & coat it with multi-purpose grease. I bought a can of Motorcraft multi-purpose grease at advance auto

➡Are both Window Glass Runs ok?
There are the two window glass runs, each is held on by two bolts. Some are known to have their mount(s) to rust off. This allows the glass to sit crooked in the tailgate and not allow it to slide up and down easily..."

Glass Roller aka slider squares (Dorman Universal Window Roller 74402) Installation in an 85
Source: by spikedzombies (O' Black Betty) at 1985 Tailgate Window Roller Replacement

View attachment 163557
•
Is Tailgate mis-aligned? See alignment by Steve @ https://web.archive.org/web/2017082...showthread.php?5224-Bronco-Tailgate-Alignment
•
Glass Replacement & Parts Break-Out Diagram in a 96 (similar to other years) from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual; "...Open tailgate. Remove inside cover access panel and retaining screws. Remove inside cover panel support and retaining screws. Remove inside cover watershield. Manually close both tailgate latches and raise the tailgate glass. Remove four nuts retaining tailgate back window glass (42006) and back window glass bracket (422B18) to back window regulator. If tailgate has heated glass option, disconnect two terminals (driver's side). Grind off four rivets, two on each back window glass bracket to tailgate glass. Punch out four rivets and remove four door window glass channel bracket retainers (234A46) and door window glass bracket spacers (234A44). Remove screws and pull out tailgate upper corner seal assemblies, one on each side. Snap out inside and outside tailgate weatherstrips with tool. Slide tailgate back window glass out from tailgate assembly. Installation, Slide glass midway into tailgate assembly. Connect heated glass wires, if equipped. Install back window glass bracket C-channels onto the tailgate window regulator arm slide guides. Position tailgate back window glass over back window glass bracket C-channel studs and install four door window glass bracket spacers, door window glass channel bracket retainers and rivets. Lower tailgate back window glass to connect heated glass wiring terminals. Close tailgate and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure smooth operation. Install watershield. Install inside cover panel support (one *****). Install ten inside cover access panel screws. Close door and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure proper function..."
View attachment 163582

Item	Part Number	Description
1	41610	Outside Weatherstrip, Tailgate
2	23394	Window Regulator Electric Drive
3	380642-S	****** Outside Weatherstrip-to-Tailgate
4	42072	Inside Weatherstrip, Tailgate
5	40700	Tailgate
6	57472-S2	Bolt, Back Window Glass Run-to-Tailgate
7	422A20	Glass Run
8	387392-S	Bumper
9	44000	Tailgate Window Regulator
10	422B18	Back Window Glass Bracket
11	57472-S2	Bolt, Tailgate Window Regulator-to-Tailgate (4 Req'd)
12	42006	Back Window Glass
13	43505	Lock Cylinder, Tailgate
14	41616	Upper Corner Seal, Tailgate
15	376389-S	****** Tailgate Upper Corner Seal-to-Tailgate
16	14559	Clip, Window Regulator Switch Retainer
17	43629	Retainer, Tailgate Lock Cylinder
18	385323-S	Rivet, Back Window Glass Bracket-to-Back Window Glass
19	234A44	Door Window Glass Bracket Spacer
20	234A46	Door Window Glass Channel Bracket Retainer
21	234A24	Window Regulator Drive Gear Kit
A	—	Tighten to 6-11 Nm (53-97 Lb-Ft)

Source: by Ford
•
Ensure that the motor is mounted properly to the back of regulator.

 

[miesk5]

Yo PART 2,
Received POS ERROR MESSAGE STATING I EXCEEDED 10,000 CHARACTER LIMIT, AGAIN!!!

□○□
"...



Tailgate Motor Wiring '92-95 (other years similar)

. .

"All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring ******* to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:

RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point." by Steve
□○□●
ALL ABOVE AND MUCH MORE IS COVERED IN Steve's slow to load, BUT EXCELLENT 80-96 Tailgate Tech @ http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/2742/12689-2
AL

 

[Smafugula]

@miesk5

Thanks for all the info my man.

So not sure whats going on now... window motor ended up having the typical plastic ball shredding, I repaired the motor with a Dorman repair kit with new plastic balls and gears. Also redid all weatherstripping. Now that everything is back together window motor does not seem to have enough power to move the window all the way up. It starts out OK and then 6 inches up or so it dies out and I have to pull it up as im keying the door to get it to go all the way. Going down now is no problem.

Before it broke the motor did have a tougher time going up then down, and then got worse and then eventually it stopped working all together.

Does this sound like I may have done something wrong on reassembly? Is it possible to over grease the internals of the motor? I wouldn't think so, I used a good amount but didn't go crazy. Maybe the balls have broken again? Or does it sound more like the motor is just toast. It is the factory Ford motor too btw. Any insight is appreciated

 

[miesk5]

Yo,
Are both Window Glass Runs ok?
There are the two window glass runs, each is held on by two bolts. Some are known to have their mount(s) to rust off. This allows the glass to sit crooked in the tailgate and not allow it to slide up and down easily

Was the glass removed?
Glass Replacement & Parts Break-Out Diagram in a 96 (similar to other years) from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual; "...Open tailgate. Remove inside cover access panel and retaining screws. Remove inside cover panel support and retaining screws. Remove inside cover watershield. Manually close both tailgate latches and raise the tailgate glass. Remove four nuts retaining tailgate back window glass (42006) and back window glass bracket (422B18) to back window regulator. If tailgate has heated glass option, disconnect two terminals (driver's side). Grind off four rivets, two on each back window glass bracket to tailgate glass. Punch out four rivets and remove four door window glass channel bracket retainers (234A46) and door window glass bracket spacers (234A44). Remove screws and pull out tailgate upper corner seal assemblies, one on each side. Snap out inside and outside tailgate weatherstrips with tool. Slide tailgate back window glass out from tailgate assembly. Installation, Slide glass midway into tailgate assembly. Connect heated glass wires, if equipped. Install back window glass bracket C-channels onto the tailgate window regulator arm slide guides. Position tailgate back window glass over back window glass bracket C-channel studs and install four door window glass bracket spacers, door window glass channel bracket retainers and rivets. Lower tailgate back window glass to connect heated glass wiring terminals. Close tailgate and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure smooth operation. Install watershield. Install inside cover panel support (one *****). Install ten inside cover access panel screws. Close door and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure proper function..."

 

[Tiha]

You didn't do anything wrong. Like Miesk is Pointing out there are so many little aspects to it.

In the glass runs on the ends like he said I have found torn weather stripping that will catch and bind, Or rusted out and the whole bracket will move.

Also the pivot points, the pieces that slide in the track on the bottom of the glass, I have found those rusted and siezed so they don't pivot like they should.

Have found the safety switches dirty and making poor contact.

Could be lots of things but most likely nothing you did.

 

[Smafugula]

You didn't do anything wrong. Like Miesk is Pointing out there are so many little aspects to it.

In the glass runs on the ends like he said I have found torn weather stripping that will catch and bind, Or rusted out and the whole bracket will move.

Also the pivot points, the pieces that slide in the track on the bottom of the glass, I have found those rusted and siezed so they don't pivot like they should.

Have found the safety switches dirty and making poor contact.

Could be lots of things but most likely nothing you did.

I cleaned the **** outta the weatherstrip and pivot guides. Everything I could clean I did. What are the safety switches? Do you think it could simply just be a bad motor?

 

[miesk5]

Yo Smafugula,
Motor could be the Perpetrator.
Use a 12-18 VDC portable tool battery and Test motor at it's connector; Inspect motor connector for terminal corrosion & what Ford describes as terminal back-out, which can be caused by a loose terminal or a worn connector body, etc.
worn or damaged brushes, commutator, & windings ground through the motor's internal CB
"To test the electrical system, remove the access panel from inside the tailgate. Run test wires from the battery directly to the window motor connector (Yellow & red wires coming right out of the motor) to confirm that the motor works.

it should be positive to red, & negative to yellow. Be ready for the window to move, keep hands & wires clear. Make all the connections but 1, then connect & disconnect the last wire quickly to see if it tries to go the right way. If it tries to go the wrong way, reverse the wires (This also makes it so that you can lower the window & get the tailgate open to continue testing).
A- If it runs & the window moves when wired directly to the battery, perform the following tests: A.1- With both switches at rest & the latch switch closed, connect a tester between the positive test wire from the battery & each wire from the tailgate loom at the connector for the motor. Both should read 12v. If they do the ground is good.

If they don't, refer to Seabronc's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find.


A.2- With the latch switch closed, connect the tester between the negative test wire from the battery & each wire from the loom at the connector for the motor. The red wire should read 12v when either switch is in the down position, the yellow wire should read 12v when either switch is in the up position. If they don't, refer to Seabronc's's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find.

A.3- If everything tests ok, but it still doesn't run, there's a couple more possible causes to check: -Sometimes the connector for the tailgate motor will test ok, but not make contact when plugged in. You might try backprobing the motor side wires with the plug connected. On mine I removed it & soldered the connections. -It's possible for a damaged wire to carry enough load to show 12v on a tester, but not enough to operate the motor. Look for worn areas, especially in the loom between the body & the tailgate.

B- If it runs but doesn't move when wired directly to the battery, in addition to your electrical problem, the torque pins in the drive gear are probably broken too. Run the electrical tests in section "A" above, & see the torque pin, Steve83's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's links above for the torque pin replacement.

C- If it doesn't run at all when wired directly to the battery, it sounds like it's time for a new motor. See Steve83's
link ... & use the info for removing & replacing the motor. On my truck there were multiple bad connections, so it was hard to isolate the problem. Someone before me used a ton of crimp connectors . Basically I ended up removing them & soldering all the connections, & eliminating the corroded plug to the motor..."
Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) "


For posterity,, TG Re-Wire with Relays @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/tailgate-rewire-works-100x-better.361210/#post-5214114

 

[Smafugula]

Yo Smafugula,
Motor could be the Perpetrator.
Use a 12-18 VDC portable tool battery and Test motor at it's connector; Inspect motor connector for terminal corrosion & what Ford describes as terminal back-out, which can be caused by a loose terminal or a worn connector body, etc.
worn or damaged brushes, commutator, & windings ground through the motor's internal CB
"To test the electrical system, remove the access panel from inside the tailgate. Run test wires from the battery directly to the window motor connector (Yellow & red wires coming right out of the motor) to confirm that the motor works.

it should be positive to red, & negative to yellow. Be ready for the window to move, keep hands & wires clear. Make all the connections but 1, then connect & disconnect the last wire quickly to see if it tries to go the right way. If it tries to go the wrong way, reverse the wires (This also makes it so that you can lower the window & get the tailgate open to continue testing).
A- If it runs & the window moves when wired directly to the battery, perform the following tests: A.1- With both switches at rest & the latch switch closed, connect a tester between the positive test wire from the battery & each wire from the tailgate loom at the connector for the motor. Both should read 12v. If they do the ground is good.

If they don't, refer to Seabronc's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find.


A.2- With the latch switch closed, connect the tester between the negative test wire from the battery & each wire from the loom at the connector for the motor. The red wire should read 12v when either switch is in the down position, the yellow wire should read 12v when either switch is in the up position. If they don't, refer to Seabronc's's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find.

A.3- If everything tests ok, but it still doesn't run, there's a couple more possible causes to check: -Sometimes the connector for the tailgate motor will test ok, but not make contact when plugged in. You might try backprobing the motor side wires with the plug connected. On mine I removed it & soldered the connections. -It's possible for a damaged wire to carry enough load to show 12v on a tester, but not enough to operate the motor. Look for worn areas, especially in the loom between the body & the tailgate.

B- If it runs but doesn't move when wired directly to the battery, in addition to your electrical problem, the torque pins in the drive gear are probably broken too. Run the electrical tests in section "A" above, & see the torque pin, Steve83's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's links above for the torque pin replacement.

C- If it doesn't run at all when wired directly to the battery, it sounds like it's time for a new motor. See Steve83's
link ... & use the info for removing & replacing the motor. On my truck there were multiple bad connections, so it was hard to isolate the problem. Someone before me used a ton of crimp connectors . Basically I ended up removing them & soldering all the connections, & eliminating the corroded plug to the motor..."
Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) "


For posterity,, TG Re-Wire with Relays @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/tailgate-rewire-works-100x-better.361210/#post-5214114

Gotcha. Thank you for that detailed response. I wonder, is it possible for the motor to work (mine does) but be weak and not have enough motor strength to move the window up? Does that happen to some folks? I think it’s either that or what you mentioned, poor ground or weak connections.

 

[Smafugula]

The motor will spin both ways up and down after repair to plastic balls/gears. It just doesn’t seem to have enough “balls” to get that window moving up with enough power. I will say this morning I tried it again, and it went up better than last night after I got finished up with the install

 

[miesk5]

Gotcha. Thank you for that detailed response. I wonder, is it possible for the motor to work (mine does) but be weak and not have enough motor strength to move the window up? Does that happen to some folks? I think it’s either that or what you mentioned, poor ground or weak connections.

Yo,
You are Welcome!
Yes, a weak tg glass motor could be negatively affected by terminal corrosion & what Ford describes as terminal back-out, which can be caused by a loose terminal or a worn connector body, etc.
worn or damaged brushes, commutator, & windings ground through the motor's internal CB, etc.

 

[dawggg (steve)]

mine comes down fine on my 93 but struggles a little bit the last 6-8 inches...i just keep shooting wd-40 on the window guides

 

[WalkingW]

Yo PART 2,
Received POS ERROR MESSAGE STATING I EXCEEDED 10,000 CHARACTER LIMIT, AGAIN!!!

□○□
"...
View attachment 28962


Tailgate Motor Wiring '92-95 (other years similar)

View attachment 28963 . View attachment 28964 . View attachment 28965

"All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring ******* to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:

RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point." by Steve
□○□●
ALL ABOVE AND MUCH MORE IS COVERED IN Steve's slow to load, BUT EXCELLENT 80-96 Tailgate Tech @ http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/2742/12689-2
AL

I absolutely love all the information you provided!!! Thank you!

 

[johnnyreb]

The next time you try it. Do what Steve{dawgg) said. Run the window down to where it starts slowing down--WHEN YOU RAISE IT. Spary oil (silicon if you have it) INTO the TOP part of the window runner felt guide. Let it soak in for a minute. Then try it. It works mine alot better. Also you might pay attention to that area--you tail gate might be out of adjustment.

 

[YJ351LC]

Yo PART 2,
Received POS ERROR MESSAGE STATING I EXCEEDED 10,000 CHARACTER LIMIT, AGAIN!!!

□○□
"...
View attachment 28962


Tailgate Motor Wiring '92-95 (other years similar)

View attachment 28963 . View attachment 28964 . View attachment 28965

"All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring ******* to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:

RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point." by Steve
□○□●
ALL ABOVE AND MUCH MORE IS COVERED IN Steve's slow to load, BUT EXCELLENT 80-96 Tailgate Tech @ http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/2742/12689-2
AL

MIESK5 This is specifically for you but want all to be able to see your response.

My dash switch works fine. T/G switch does not. I have tested the C205 from the fuse panel and am getting good power. When I test at C418 I do not get power. I have rung the BLK/W (517) wire from the C205 male side to the C418 female side and do not get continuity. So, this indicates that there is a break in the line, unless there is a connector that I am missing. Is there a common break point that can easily be repaired or is this a bad wire that must be rerun. If I rerun do I need to de pin/re pin or just cut and solder?

As a test, I turned on rear defrost and checked it at C418. It checked good with solid 12v power. I am assuming the P/LG and P/LB wires are good since the dash switch works.


Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

 

[ablediver]

Hey guys,


1986 Bronco 5.0l 302

So my back window stopped going up or down the other day. Could here the motor trying to work, sounded like it was skipping. Today I took the window out and got to the motor to inspect. Ran the motor outside of the tailgate and it spun both ways up and down. Slow but still at a good speed it seemed.

My question is should I take the motor apart to inspect the bearings inside? I’d prefer to keep the OG motor. I have a Chinese replacement but it doesn’t even line up to the bolts.

Anyways trying to figure out what to do here. The metal guides where the square plastic pieces ride in were gummed up to **** and back. Wondering if I just put everything back together magic will happen and all will be good.

Any insight is greatly appreciated

Smafugula,
I have a 96' EB that the same issue occurred with two (2) years ago. Tell me if this sounds familiar: Going up, the window would hang up, go slow, or even stop. Then, you go and clean the window channels, and everything would be good for a couple of uses. Then, again, the previously mentioned symptoms would occur again. Well, yep, my metal guides were just like yours, this 96' EB lived in the AZ desert and they were caked well with grit. Actually, after cleaning the channels, the fiber guides worked worse because they were worn and the cause of the problem. Jeff's Bronco Graveyard (JBG) has the kit for around $15. You'll need to drill out the pressed bushings in the channel (put a piece of dunnage lumber under where you're drilling) and you'll need to provide your own hardware (really?). I've never had an issue since then.

Ablediver out