EGR plugged?

[92pobronco]

I let my bronco warm up to operating temp and was keeping my hand on the EGR tube waiting for a slug of heat to come thru it and nothing happend.....am I wrong or should it be hot given its an exhaust gas re-circulator... when I remove it do I twist the bottom half of egr off first and then unbolt from the manifold?..... My truck tends to wants to come to the point of dieing when I first start it then when it kicks into warm up a second later shes fine...any suggestions will be greatly appreciated - If that egr tube needs replacement how much of a pain in the rear will that be given its running under the intake manifold?

 

[Yardape]

Its a very expensive tube. I think when mine was leaking I priced out a new one and it was in the 300 dollar range. So I cut the tube, kinked the ends and welded them to seal them off. Yours might just be plugged solid with carbon, its much easier to break the nut loose before you unbolt it from the manifold

 

[92pobronco]

Its a very expensive tube. I think when mine was leaking I priced out a new one and it was in the 300 dollar range. So I cut the tube, kinked the ends and welded them to seal them off. Yours might just be plugged solid with carbon, its much easier to break the nut loose before you unbolt it from the manifold

This winter the dizzy was out and when put back in - the timing got advanced to 13 deg - she just ran like a clock there, but the brakes went and I couldn't drive her - Brakes are fixed and now when she gets up to 40mph there is nothing there - power just lags and it's not bearable - so before I get my timing in check (which I will probably ****** a touch),

Should the EGR be addressed first, given the fact that its always cold?

could that hinder a 92 bronco 5.0 that bad?

she idles nice for the most part revs quick and smooth in park or neutral pulls nice on the bottom end but there is a big void after 40 mph tranny's in good shape with a new torque converter, pump seals and fluid -

What is the sweet spot on timing that many of you guys prefer to run???

I have a homebrew K&N intake , msd coil, bosch plugs, bosch wires, and thats as tuned as it gets for me

 

[92pobronco]

If you're concerned that it's plugged, check it after a highway drive. If you think it's plugged, remove & clean it. A coat hanger & some carb cleaner should do a fine job of removing any obstruction.

The EGR doesn't significantly enhance performance - it's for durability & emissions. So a non-functional EGR system won't be immediately noticeable. It will damage the engine, though, if left long enough. Read this.

Timing should be 10�BTDC, following the procedure printed on the VECI label under the hood.

I hope your homebrew isn't an open-element filter (hot air), and Bosch plugs don't seem to work well in these engines. Most people get the best performance with Wal-Mart's cheapest Autolites.

I checked it a few times and it got hot after a long drive - I pulled it anyway and the hole leading to the intake manifold was nearly blocked so I cleaned it -
The bosch plugs have been in there for about 2 years and I have not noticed anything adverse with them (platinum 2) and they are still pretty clean -

Yes the intake I have made is exactly as you described but I put a Dry charger sock on it for easer cleaning - I agree with the fact that its clearly a hot air intake but having that egr blow hot air thru the manifold is just as counterproductive - I did put a duct in from my lower bumper to scavenge some chill when moving and its been a pretty good success thus far -

scary thing - my timing was set to 8 deg btdc and I ******** it to 12 where I am pretty happy right now - she idles under 700 rpm

the steering however is having this bind when turning right mostly where the range of movement is blocked until i give it a slight jiggle - to me this is unacceptable - the wheel has a slight up and down jiggle to it that is unrelated to the tilt function - what could cause this random bind in my steering, and what can i do to fix it??

 

[92pobronco]

I have corrected the major bind in my steering- it was a small piece of aluminum (the hook nub part for the cable loop that shows the gear position on the dash )that was attached to shifter tube selector arm got stuck in the crevis on the left side of the shifter tube - this is where the shaft that turns the wheel resides and spins - the shape of the shaft portion being milled from round to flat caused the intermittent bind I was experiencing when the flat portion spun past the piece it caused the rotation of it to jam - it took a coat hanger, some good lighting and patience to get that bastard out of there. I didn't see it fall in when I pulled the tube and I did not even know it broke off.

New problem of the day is...........low range does not function but 4 wheel works perfect..... is it a switch? a shifter motor or a spiders nest resting inside the button - anyones guess but i need to figure this out