drowning engine

[illinoisbronco]

i have an ongoing problem that i thought was water in the engine. it wouldnt stay running so i changed the fuel filter and water ran out. then i had to pull all of the plugs and turn it to push out whatever was in it. put the plugs back in and it ran great. after it sits for a half a day it does it all over again. i am tired of pulling the plugs and flushing it. could too much oil leak past a piston ring and have the same cause? i cannot find what it is pushing out either. i have used iso heet and an octane booster. this has gone on for about a week and a half. i would figure all of the water should be out by now.

thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

You might consider putting a lock on your gas cap.

 

[crazyhorse85]

Where are you getting gas????could be they have moisture in there tanks... B)

 

[miesk5]

yo!

the bottom of your gas tank prob. has dirt, rust, and some water droplets from condensation, esp now w/cooler temps..my Bronco was soaking wet this morning after a sunny day and cool night. da best wayis to refill the tank when you are at 1/4 of a tank or slightly less...don

 

[miesk5]

A Q;

Is your cargo area bed and/or lower edge of the tailgate rusted badly?

I just recalled a pal who sent me pics of his 89 a few yrs ago showing how rain got thru tg's lower inner edge and was sucked into bed & under mat (by aerodynamic flow) and then down thru bed into gas tank whose top had a huge rust hole around fuel pump/sender collar.

Whadda think?

 

[illinoisbronco]

1 there is no rust except by the cab.

2 i live in a town of about 5000 so i doubt anyone is tainting my gas via gas cap. i dont know anyone.

3 i get gas from a bp that stays busy.

4 i keep my tank above 1/4

5 happened suddenly 1 1/2 weeks ago before no such problem

6 new filter and ise-heet

7 sounds like only half the engine is struggling to run and cats get REALLY HOT until i pull plugs and flush cylinders then runs just fine for a day

8 no white smoke or water in the oil

Q: could a plug wire have a bad connection and cause a cylinder to fill with gas and drown or flood it?

Q: i am off for 2 days should i disassemble the entire fuel assembly and get it over with ? i'd hate to do it for nothing

thanks again for everyone's help.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Small towns can be worse than big cities, some high schooler's girlfriend thinks your cute, and you've got a problem with someone you never met.

Water is heavier than gas, so it will settle to the bottom of the tank.

The fuel pump has to pump from the bottom of the tank or it would be sucking air when you still have a partial tank.

IF you are always more than 1/4 full, and have a tight fitting cap, it is kinda unlikely that you have enough condensation inside the tank, unless you put very few miles on her each day, and add gas very infrequently. You shouldn't ignore the possibility that water is getting in from an outside source.

Here is what I would do.

Park slightly downhill, so the water collects at the bottom front of the tank, where the fuel pump is.

Have someone work with me.

turn the inertia switch off, and relieve pressure from the line.

disconnect the fuel line at the filter, and put a hose on the line and into a clear gallon container.

reset the inertial switch and have someone turn the ignition key on.

turn it off before the container is full. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

repeat the process until all the water is out.

Oh yeah.. no smoking! No sparks! Have a fire extinguisher handy! Do in well ventilated area!

Gasoline is flammable! Don't inhale vapors!

Don't be stupid!

Did I do enough of covering my A** on this one?

 

[illinoisbronco]

Small towns can be worse than big cities, some high schooler's girlfriend thinks your cute, and you've got a problem with someone you never met.
Water is heavier than gas, so it will settle to the bottom of the tank.

The fuel pump has to pump from the bottom of the tank or it would be sucking air when you still have a partial tank.

IF you are always more than 1/4 full, and have a tight fitting cap, it is kinda unlikely that you have enough condensation inside the tank, unless you put very few miles on her each day, and add gas very infrequently. You shouldn't ignore the possibility that water is getting in from an outside source.

Here is what I would do.

Park slightly downhill, so the water collects at the bottom front of the tank, where the fuel pump is.

Have someone work with me.

turn the inertia switch off, and relieve pressure from the line.

disconnect the fuel line at the filter, and put a hose on the line and into a clear gallon container.

reset the inertial switch and have someone turn the ignition key on.

turn it off before the container is full. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

repeat the process until all the water is out.

Oh yeah.. no smoking! No sparks! Have a fire extinguisher handy! Do in well ventilated area!

Gasoline is flammable! Don't inhale vapors!

Don't be stupid!

Did I do enough of covering my A** on this one?

thank you yoda. i will try that tonight or in the a.m. and let you know how it turns out. i am also going to drop the tank while the pressure is releived and check the seal on the tank pump. do you need a special tool for that?

also could the injector pressure regulator contain water?

what about a clogged strainer?

 

[BroncoJoe19]

How to cut an access panel to the fuel pump by SeaBronc

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...ost&p=62738

 

[Yardape]

. do you need a special tool for that?

Use a brass punch to drive the retainer out. A steel punch could make a spark, and sparks are evil!!!

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Use a brass punch to drive the retainer out. A steel punch could make a spark, and sparks are evil!!!

Yeah, good point!

Isn't there a thread around here with a discussion and pictorial on removeing the fuel pump and sender? I searched for it and didn't find it.

 

[miesk5]

you mentioned the strainer; like this? & the filter your changed; was it in da reservoir?

"...Single-Function Reservoir in 84-89; "...were only used on the early EFIs; carbs & diesels used electrically-operated tank-select valves, and later EFIs use an in-tank fuel delivery module (FDM) that performs these functions. The single-function reservoir (SFR) is used on vehicles with ONE gas tank, like Broncos, vans, & low-trim pickups. The reservoir is always inside the L frame rail beneath the driver's floorpan about 10" behind the frame fuel pump. The 10mm bolt heads are easy to access on the outer face of the frame rail, but some vehicles have a large heat shield that must also be removed...There's not much to the SFR (which is what ALL Broncos of those years have): the '88 version just has the cup & 1 check valve (earlier versions have 2)..."

and a diagam w/info by Steve; and "...'86 Single-Function Reservoir Fuel Flow

Fuel flows in through the larger tank-side supply ****** from the in-tank pump to the inlet check valve, which allows it into the reservoir. As the cup fills, fuel moves through the filter, up the pickup tube, & out the larger engine-side supply ******. Unused fuel enters the engine-side return ******, mingles with any unused fuel coming through the check valve from the reservoir, and exits the tank-side return ******.

The only fault that would cause a noticeable problem would be for the inlet check valve to stick closed, blocking any fuel from entering the reservoir, but this isn't likely. With the cup removed (have a replacement cup O-ring in-hand before attempting), a sharp pick can be used to pull the valve downward & open. The valve cannot be removed from the reservoir body.

A more common fault (but less noticeable) is for the check valve O-rings to fall out, reducing the pressure to the frame pump. This might make the engine slightly harder to start, especially after the tank runs dry.

The Ford engineering number on the filter is E6TZ-9365-A...

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'88 Single-Function Reservoir Fuel Flow

Fuel flows in through the larger tank-side supply ****** from the in-tank pump to the inlet check valve, which allows it into the reservoir. As the cup fills, fuel moves up the pickup tube & out the larger engine-side supply ******. Unused fuel enters the engine-side return ******, bypasses the blocked-off check valve ('88 revision) and exits the tank-side return ******.

The only fault that would cause a noticeable problem would be for the check valve to stick closed, blocking any fuel from entering the reservoir, but this isn't likely. With the cup removed (have a replacement cup O-ring in-hand before attempting), a sharp pick can be used to pull the valve downward & open. The valve cannot be removed from the reservoir body..."

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Also, check you filler tubing for opens..

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Q: could a plug wire have a bad connection and cause a cylinder to fill with gas and drown or flood it?

Combined w/your FPR Q; Bad FPR symptoms:

check engine light - code #173 (running rich right side)

running rich

rough idle

delayed start-up (needing to give it gas to start, having to turn and hold the key for more than a few seconds)

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