Door Adjustment

[astronot]

When closed, my driver's side door doesn't rest close enough to the body to be flush. In other words, the door needs to close a little farther in to keep it flush. It appears that the striker bolt in the door frame is the only adjustment that determines how "deep" the door closes. Is that bolt eccentric so that loosening the 2 screws and rotating it makes the adjustment?

 

[Rons beast]

Hey Astro,

The striker bolt on the body can be loosened and moved inside. The easiest way is to loosen the striker till it's snug then tapping it with a hammer and block of wood to close the gap. Close the door and check....make any further adjustments, then tighten fully.

Good Luck

 

[astronot]

OK. You're talking about the whole bracket that holds the striker bolt? Will give that a try this week.

Thanks!

 

[Rons beast]

The striker I'm speaking of is like the one in the attached pic.

You need a larger torqs bit. Loosen it so it is still snug and tap it to where you want it. There is no need to loosen any other bolts.

Good Luck

 

[astronot]

A Torx fastener on an EB? Mine isn't like that. Just got back out to the shop today and mine has no Torx or other conventional head on it. Just the 2 screws that hold the whole assembly in place. I'm gonna loosen them and see what happens. I thought Torx fasteners didn't hit the automotive market until sometime in the '80s?

 

[Bully Bob]

Ya.., '68-'77 have an oval striker.., ('66-'67 had round)

Two phillips screws. May need to ****-m-up. May also need to use an impact screwdriver so as not to bugger the screws.

Don't remove screws or the backing plate will drop.

 

[mikeiam82]

The whole striker post may have moved outward at the top due to spirited driving and off roading. There is no support for the sheet metal other then where it welds under the body behind the rocker panels. Someone i know who used to build broncos told me if that happens he used to drill some of the spot welds out underneath and pull the top of the striker post back in with a ***-along then re-weld the spot welds. You could also pull it back in without cutting or welding. Even with the top on there isnt much str holding the upper body from moving unless you have a half cab then there is a bulk head bolted in holding the 2 sides together.

 

[astronot]

Jeez! I own what I thought to be the mother of all Phillips screwdrivers. It is dwarfed by the Phillips screws holding the striker bolt in place! I'm gonna have to take it to my buddy's shop (who has an impact screwdriver) to get them loose. However, the more I look at this thing, the less hope I have that it's going to be adjustable. If not, I'll try moving it in place per Mike's advice. Thanks, guys!

 

[mikeiam82]

Jeez! I own what I thought to be the mother of all Phillips screwdrivers. It is dwarfed by the Phillips screws holding the striker bolt in place! I'm gonna have to take it to my buddy's shop (who has an impact screwdriver) to get them loose. However, the more I look at this thing, the less hope I have that it's going to be adjustable. If not, I'll try moving it in place per Mike's advice. Thanks, guys!

You might be able to adjust the door in enough by moving the striker but you originally said it was sticking out on the top i believe, moving the striker in might make the gap better but it might also cause the bottom of the door to bind or hit the inner before latching causing the paint to chip or possibly dent the inner or fold the pinch ****** of the skin over. When you do try to adjust the striker in don't assume the problem is fixed and try to slam the door, slowly shut the door and check as your closing it just in case it makes the problem worse.

It may also be a simple hinge adjustment, im pretty sure you can loosen the door hinge bolts and adjust the doors up down in/out at top and in/out at bottom.

 

[astronot]

Well, actually the gap is pretty even top to bottom. Never thought about adjusting the door hinges, I was just going to get a long pipe and try to bend the striker inboard a bit.

 

[Bully Bob]

There's no real adj. at the hinges really. Maybe up & down, inboard & outboard a bit. But.., those screws need a good soaking. If they "snap" you're in for a lot of extra work. Moving the hinges won't change the depth of the door closing at the striker.

The stricker floats once loosened, for adjustment.

Same here however, PB-Blaster then hit with a impact driver. (cheap at Harb. Freight & handy elsewhere)