Coolant Dripping From Muffler

[JonD]

Bad went to worse today. Took the heads in to get resurfaced and they found a crack between two valves. They advised I pour kerosene or mineral spirits down into the cylinders to make sure the rings didn't leak. Several dripped with one really dripping. I then found a piston ear laying in the oil pan. Now I'm on for a ring job along with replacing pistons and bearings.

 

[Seabronc]

At this point, I think I'd consider a long block.  You have already found several serious problems, who knows what is hidden from view?  Or just pour more money down that hole.  Just my feelings, it's your truck /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> 

>-

 

[MaximusBronk]

I agree with the moderator on simply replacing the block.  Think of not only the money you may be throwing at a possible bad block, but also your time and labor involved.  Plus the remanufactured block will likely come with a warranty.

But be sure to verify that your intake system will work with the block you purchase.  As an example, go to this link and READ the Q&A at the bottom of the page.  The second question comes from a Bronco owner asking about the intake system, and they verify that this engine WILL NOT work for his application.  I add this link so that you may understand that you must verify that your system will work with any block you decide upon.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-hp09/overview/

Years ago, I went with an ATK short block, and installed Edelbrock heads with a Crane cam that provided torque in lower RPM's for off-road, and highway usage as well.  I can provide you my build specs if you like.  This engine has provided me years of good power, as well as economy on the highway.

Rod

 

[Bully Bob]

Thru-out this thread.., I've tried not to be negiative so as not to discourage.  I knew the heads

would give clues as to what's next.

Early on, I assumed this eng. was over heated at some point in time.  Now it seems even

more possible. A broken piston skirt is another clue.

As stated.., it's unknown if the block itself is damaged beyond repair.

The machine shop could tell you but in any case.., you should pull it.

I think, at this point, you've spent more time than $$$.   (not counting what you paid for the truck)

It's decision time...... continue attempt to save this eng.  OR  replace it.

 

[JonD]

I'm right there with you guys. I'm researching short and long blocks right now. I really hate to pull the engine out, mostly because that means more things to buy like a lift and stand plus all the pita that comes along with it. Thanks for all your help and feel free to continue providing support and suggestions. This is just a truck for my son so I'm only going to use stock and not make him some supped up system. I'll save my money and use it on my own build. One thing I wondered is getting the engine out. This truck is so high, no lift kit but 33 tires, can I even get a lift in there and get it up high enough to pull it out? Guess I could jack up, remove from wheels, then set down on block or jack stands that get it much lower to the ground.

 

[JonD]

Looks like I can get a reman long block stock for somewhere between $1200-1700. Hardest part is making sure they are for a 90 w/EFI and vin code H. They are out there. Looks like the long will give me everything I need and I can just use my existing pan, timing chain cover, water pump and intake. Anything not meeting the grade can just be replaced. I've already bought shorty headers and valve covers plus a upper gasket set plus oil pan set so I should be set. Just need your ideas for getting the block in and out considering the height. Also, with the core they want it returned assembled. Might be worth the $300 to just keep the old block and sell of what I can if its still good. I don't want to spend all that time putting it all back together.

 

[Bully Bob]

You can rent a Cherry picker real reasonable to lift the eng.

Yes, airing down the tires or removing the wheels helps. however, you need room to get

underneath to un-bolt things. Removing the hood helps.

With the heads off & pan off.., it's much less of a lift.

There's a balance bar that comes with the cherry picker. It helps with the alignment

of the trannie shaft.., especially on reassembling.

I did mine in the garage & it was close as to clearing the ceiling.

SAFETY is the key.  Only get under when it's well supported.

You'll need a seperate jack/jackstand to support the trannie.

What I do is, with a clipboard, log my progress & order in which things were removed.

(no fun going back & un-doing something to hook up something else.)

Store bolts for ea. item removed in a diff. marked can.

Labeling wires helps as well.

BTW.., have you ever done this B/4 ..?

 

[JonD]

Nope. All the engines I've worked were already out of the car or stayed in while I repaired them.

 

[JonD]

Actually I did help put a 351 into a ltd once with my ex-girlfriends dad who was a retired Chrysler assembly line supervisor. I seem to recall carrying the trani in my hands and thinking holy crap this heavy. Looks like I need to head to harbor freight tomorrow because apparently I need a 15/16" socket. Thought I had everything but that's certainly an odd ball size. Sound right to you?

 

[miesk5]

Yo Jon,

Consider Ford Remanufactured Engines, but more $ than you want to spend. - Motorcraft® Brand, Broncos & all Ford @ http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_147299447748314&key=6ed47b392b9edfe394b9e89b72717104&libId=isomqmur01000bgv000MA5bsud83rfl0u&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fullsizebronco.com%2Fforum%2F21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone%2F324145-engine-replacement.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordinstallersupport.com%2Ffiles%2Fcatalogs%2Fptm200.pdf&title=Engine%20replacement%20-%20Ford%20Bronco%20Forum&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordinstallersupport.com%2F...ogs%2Fptm200.pdf

Here is a sample latest RETAIL price from Ford Parts on-line; see if local dealer will discount.

6V012

(LGB-175-RM)

Remanufactured Engine Complete Assembly

5.8L; EFI w/dipstick in block; Motorcraft Reman version

$2,595.69

Select a dealer for prices & availability

.....

LIMITED WARRANTY STATEMENT (FOR RETAIL SALES ON OR AFTER 9/1/2010)

Ford and Motorcraft®

New and Remanufactured Transmissions and Gas Engines

Ford Motor Company, The American Road, Dearborn, MI 48121 (“Ford”) provides the following Limited Warranty on Ford and Motorcraft®

New and Remanufactured Transmissions and Gas Engines to Ford and Lincoln Dealers (each being a “Dealer”) or general Installers

(each being an “Installer”). This Limited Warranty provides Ford will credit the Dealer or Installer for repairing or replacing, at Ford’s

option, any Ford or Motorcraft®

Transmission or Gas Engine sold by Ford in the United States that is found to be defective in factory-

supplied material or workmanship subject to the following terms, conditions and limitations:

Retail Customers: To obtain warranty service, please return your vehicle to any Ford or Lincoln Dealership or return

to the Installer who originally installed the Ford or Motorcraft®

Gas Engine or Transmission Assembly in your vehicle.

Please have your original dated receipt for purchase verification.

Gas Engine Long Block Assemblies (6006/6007/6V006/6V012) and Transmission Assemblies (7000/7V000/7002/7003)

• For 36 months from warranty start date (unlimited miles), Ford will cover 100% of all parts and labor at approved warranty

reimbursement rates

• If installed by a Dealer, reasonable towing charges (up to 35 miles or to the nearest Dealer) are covered only if the vehicle is not

covered under another towing insurance coverage

Short Blocks (6009/6V009), Cylinder Heads (6049/6V049), Camshafts (6250) and Crankshaft Kits (6303/6V303) for

Gas Engines

• 12 months or 12,000 miles from warranty start date, whichever occurs first. Ford will cover 100% of all parts and labor at approved

warranty reimbursement rates

• If installed by a Dealer, reasonable towing charges (up to 35 miles or to the nearest Dealer) are covered only if the vehicle is not

covered under another towing insurance coverage

Warranty Start Date

• Ford and Motorcraft® New and Remanufactured Transmissions and Gas Engines installed by the Dealer or Installer — warranty begins

on the date of sale from the Ford or Lincoln Dealership or Ford Motor Company’s Factory Authorized Powertrain Distributor

Limitations to the Warranty

The following limitation applies to the products covered by this Limited Warranty:

• Towing charges are not reimbursable for Ford and Motorcraft® Transmissions and Gas Engines sold over-the-counter by a Dealer or

Installer

How to obtain Limited Warranty coverage for Ford and Motorcraft® Transmissions and Gas Engines sold over-the-

counter by a Dealer or Installer:

This statement applies to over-the-counter customers of a Dealer or Installer, such as a retail customer or fleet customer.

The Dealer or Installer can claim both parts and labor under the Limited Warranty if the retail customer, at his/her option,

• Returns the vehicle to the Installer (from which the assembly or component was purchased) or to any Dealer for repairs, or

• Returns the Ford or Motorcraft®

New or Remanufactured Transmission or Gas Engine to the Installer (from which the assembly or

component was purchased) or to any Dealer for repairs

NOTES:

• This Limited Warranty may be honored by the original Installer or any Dealer (even though that particular Dealer was not the original

purchaser/seller of the product)

• In order for the Dealer or Installer to claim under the Limited Warranty, the Dealer, Installer or customer (whether original customer or

subsequent transferee) must provide the original owner’s repair order or sales slip when repairs are requested

• Only new Ford Original Equipment, Ford Authorized Remanufactured, or other parts or assemblies authorized by Ford may be used to

complete covered warranty repairs

• Installer labor reimbursement is calculated using Ford Labor Times Standard hours multiplied by the selling Dealership’s warranty labor

rate or the Installer’s actual labor total, whichever is less

• Diagnostic steps taken to determine cause of warrantied concern with diagnostic results must be clearly documented on Installer

repair order. (Warranty parts and labor reimbursement requests must be supported by diagnostic labor steps and test results)

• All parts replaced under warranty must be returned to your selling Dealer

THIS LIMITED WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER FORD OR MOTORCRAFT®

REMANUFACTURED TRANSMISSIONS AND

GAS ENGINES THAT FAIL DUE TO ABUSE, MISUSE, NEGLECT, ALTERATION, ACCIDENT, RACING, OR PARTS AND

ACCESSORIES INSTALLED IN VEHICLES OTHER THAN THOSE LISTED IN FORD AUTHORIZED CATALOGS INCLUDING

OTHER FORD MOTOR COMPANY BRANDS, OR THE USE OF NON-FORD PARTS, OR LACK OF PROPER MAINTENANCE.

THIS LIMITED WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER PARTS WHICH ARE REPLACED AS PART OF NORMAL MAINTENANCE.

THIS LIMITED WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER REPEAT REPAIRS PERFORMED AS A RESULT OF A MISDIAGNOSIS OR

IMPROPER PRIOR REPAIR. TO THE EXTENT ALLOWED BY LAW, LOSS OF TIME, INCONVENIENCE, LOSS OF THE USE OF

THE VEHICLE, COMMERCIAL LOSS, AND INCIDENTAL AND CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES ARE NOT COVERED. THERE IS

NO OTHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTY ON THESE FORD AND MOTORCRAFT®

NEW AND REMANUFACTURED

TRANSMISSIONS AND GAS ENGINES INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, ANY IMPLIED WARRANTY OF

MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. TO THE EXTENT ALLOWED BY LAW, ANY IMPLIED

WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS IS LIMITED TO THE DURATION OF THIS WRITTEN LIMITED WARRANTY.

To retain the safety and dependability built into this product, it is essential that your Ford or Motorcraft®

Remanufactured Transmission

or Gas Engine receives the scheduled maintenance at the recommended intervals contained in your vehicle Owner’s Manual/

Maintenance Schedule.

Rev. Date: 5/8/13

...

Halli wrote on 30 DEC 2010 that for a Ford Reman 5.8l long block is 2308.00 exchange. 2210.00 for a 5.0; These are Ford dealer prices in the Mid-South Reman 5.0 = $1914.56

JR Nice wrote on 5 MAY 2012, Ford crate 5.0 H.O was about $1900. My local rebuild on my 5.8 was about $2300.

radiolotek wrote on 19 May 2012, $2300. For a complete assembly (1995 5.8)

 

[Bully Bob]

M5 provided some good info for you (above)

So, it seems you have the mechanical ability & Temperament for this project.

It is a step-by-step process done thoughtfully & without rushing.

Not sure of socket sizes needed but a run to auto parts is sometimes necessary.

BTW.., you've got over 400 followers/views sooo.., your thread is likely a lesson

for several. :-B   >< <'>

 

[JonD]

Thanks Meisk5 I had looked there first. With numerous nationwide engine remanufactures to choose from, most with long warranty and good reputations, I can price shop a bit.

Bully Bob, you have also been a great help. I've not only got my Haynes but I also bought the complete 5-volume ford repair set in cd. Lots more detail. I was most interested in the emission electrical and vacuum details. Bought the exact year and model of mine so I should be armed to the teeth. The issue I have with manuals like Haynes is that they seem to just blow through instructions but lack sufficient detail. Just read the removal of the timing cover, which is where I'm at now. They give no helpful info like socket size or how to keep the motor from turning over when taking off that harmonic balance bolt. They just breeze through it. Helpful little tips like that would make their manuals even more appreciated. I know they'd be twice as big but honestly that's what I liked back in the 80's when I did this in school. The Chilton I had was hard cover and about six inches thick. Only covered one car, in my case the Ford Mustang/Mercury Capri '79-'84 I believe. Every single detail with lots of images and diagrams. Nowadays they're all softcover and slim in size and details as far as I'm concerned. That's what makes forums like this so valuable. The only hard part is stopping what you're doing and waiting for a quick response here if you're lucky.

 

[Bully Bob]

I know.., years ago, we had dozens of responders..., it's thinned out a bit as of late.

We've lost a lot of our hands-on mechanic members. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

     (hard to get good help these days) :lol:

I'm limited to my desk-top PC that I only check a few times a day.

Having never owned a FSB.., I'm not well versed as to the details like

Seabronc,  M5 & others but.., engine R&R., brakes., etc. are pretty basic.

 

[JonD]

Ok my fellow Bronco enthusiasts and followers of this thread, I need your advice. While I've rebuilt 351's many years back, all on a stand, I've never rebuilt a 351w to go into a Bronco. Here's what I'm getting at. I've got my nice brand new long block mounted to my engine stand and ready to start assembling. What should I install prior to putting back into the vehicle? I remember what a pita the oil cover was getting off while in vehicle. Can or should I install while out or will there be clearance issues when putting back in with a hoist. What about intake and exhaust manifolds, water pump, dist, etc? Any suggestions in order to save time later or keep from doing once back in the truck and harder to reach. Added some pics of the new block. I've already put the timing cover back on then thought I should get some input here before going further. The block still has its "diaper" on. Thanks.

 

[Bully Bob]

I know.., kinda scary huh..???

I once put the eng. trans. & transfer ALL BOLTED TOGETHER into a Land Cruiser...!!

BUT.., the whole front grill comes off the Land Cruisers.  (didn't have to lift very high..)

I would definately put the intake on as you can see the gasket all the way around to insure

correct seating.

Same with the pan. With the eng. upsidedown.., you can get a good seal. The pan will

protect the oil pump,etc. during install.  Don't think it hangs much lower than the  crank

internals, etc.

The rest is a judgement call.., You know the clearances on the sides near the wheel wells.

You're on the down-hill side now...., once you set that baby in place..., the rest is

easy-peasy knuckle crunch'n grunt-n-sweat time. But it's all fun..!!!!!!!!  /

 

[Seabronc]

I agree with BB, but with a little work you can remove the grill, radiator and radiator support.  A bit of a pain, but it can be done and would make installation a bit easier.  However, if you have a cherry picker that will clear all that it will save some time. 

Enjoy >-

 

[JonD]

This ARP bolt kit is garbage. Only a couple of the water pump bolts are long enough and none of the valve cover or oil pan bolts are long enough. What's the point of spending $90 for nothing but intake and exhaust bolts assuming those fit. Where do I get the remaining bolts? Most of my old one are rusted, corroded and in a few cases broken off when I removed them. I'm not finding a definitive list of all the bolt sizes needed. I didn't do a good job when I removed them keeping track because I assumed the arp kit has me covered. Any guides out there for figuring out bolt sizes? Haynes is useles and even the ford repair manuals are vague and not clear about each one. Even with part numbers from the ford manual I still can't look them up. Weird sizes too. 2.8" bolts, where are you going to find them. Perhaps a trip to the junk yard in hopes of finding one completely assembled so I can remove what I need.

 

[Bully Bob]

The www.jeffsbroncograveyard.com  has a vast selection of bolts fasteners, etc.  (248) 437-5060

Many in specific kits.

 

[miesk5]

Yo

As Bob suggested!

I am using a tablet, so I can not compare pics and diagrams below to validate info. So let me know what is incorrect and I will delete it.

Water Pump Stud Kit

http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Water-Pump-Stud-Kit/productinfo/10774/

Ford small block.

289, 302 and 351W> Includes:

1 Bolt 5/16" - 18 x 5"

1 Stud 3/8" - 16 x 5/16" - 18 x 5 3/8"

1 Stud 3/8" - 16 x 5/16" - 18 x 3 7/16"

..

Now, here is Dorman’s kit that appears to be =

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-25888-23744.aspx?year=1989&make=Ford&model=Bronco&parttype=Water%2520Pump%2520Stud%2520Kit&origin=YMM

Either zinc-plated or coated with black oxide for corrosion resistance, the hardware included in Dorman’s Water Pump Stud Kit resists stripping or oxidization. Plus, our use of thread lock ensures powerful adhesive action. Keep all the hardware necessary for water pump installation and repair at your fingertips.

Comes with all necessary hardware to complete the repair

Rust-resistant

Direct replacement for a proper fit every time

Easy installation

See APPLICATIONS listing that shows Ford used these bolts for boo-koo models and years and than full size Broncos.

...

Next is possibly the last remaining diagram on the www for the bolts...I recall now defunct sites had this information by owners, but all the information is lost.

Compare to your pump.



Water pump bolt diagram in a 92 5.8



timing cover bolt diagram in a 92 5.8

by 2bet

...

For Chevvies, back in the day, dad, uncles and me went to a local automotive machine shop, they had all the fasteners, gaskets, or rings, etc. Machinists would walk through the aisles picking the stuff out from memory.

...

Back in 2009, Ken wrote; in a 92 Bronco 5.0

"...Water Pump Bolt - 5/16 - 18 x 5"

Stud size - 5/16"-18 x 3/8" x 16 x 5-3/8" and 5/16"-18 x 3/8"-16 x 3-7/16"

..."

Here are the Dorman kit reviews that make me want to punch the crap out one big dog person;

JAMES – Review provided by Summit Racing Equipment

December 31, 2015

These bolts were needed for my 351W in my 1994 Ford E-250 van.

I had researched the issue before & found that you needed (2) kits to have enough bolts. Note that each install is different, so save your pieces of broken old bolts to match them to the new bolts length.

After cleaning all the corrosion out of the holes in my front cover, I installed the new bolts w/ anti-seize on the threads and wheel bearing grease coating the shanks. Also I packed the front cover bolt holes & the new water pump bolt holes w/ the same grease.

The Ford design allows any coolant leakage to flood the bolt holes, thus corroding the front cover & the bolts together.

351w waterpump studs – August 18, 2016

..,

NICK – Review provided by Summit Racing Equipment

August 18, 2016

These go through the Timing Cover & Water Pump, be aware that this is not a full set, to have all new fixings I needed this set x2 and a bunch of other bolts, if you google around you can find the full set but its fairly expensive

...

None of these studs fit my '94, F150 - 5.0 – July 29, 2016

The Big Dog. – Review provided by Advance Auto Parts

July 29, 2016

Pros: Quality Materials; Good Design; Durable

Although the studs in this kit are apparently high quality, none of the studs fit the water pump in my 1994, F150 - 5.0. So before purchasing this item, you might consider bringing in your old studs to compare.

 

[JonD]

Thanks the pics help a lot and the dorman parts are spot on. Same for broncograveyard so I suspect he uses the same supplier.