Still not knowing what carb you have, I'd guess that they are the idle mixture adjustments. If it idles OK leave it alone. Running above idle is done by the metering system and you probably need to do a carb rebuild. That is not difficult, but you need to follow the instructions with the rebuild kit.
If you do decide to rebuild the carb, get a gallon of carb cleaner. It should include a parts tray inside it. After disassembling the carb put the parts into the tray, (more like a can with holes in the bottom that fits inside the gallon bucket), and then let them soak for a day. Take them out and rinse them off and completely dry them, blow out any orifices. Make sure that there is nothing clogging up some ports before reassembling. Then reassemble using the rebuild kit parts. Then follow the instructions on setting the idle adjustment screws and fuel bowl float. The choak linkage adjustment procedure I believe you will find it on the emissions sticker, (basically that is a RPM setting at idle). Then if you have a vacuum gauge, you can tweak the idle mixture, ( if not leave it set according to the kit recommendations). The last adjustment is the street idle adjustment, (the ***** on the linkage, usually set around 450 to 600 RPM in gear with the brake on, [automatic transmission]).
One thing to keep in mind, a carb kit does not address vacuum leaks caused by worn linkage parts like the rod that the throttle butterfly is mounted on. So a kit will improve an old carbs performance but may not make it like a new one.
All that said, first make sure you don't have a vacuum leak someplace. I use the propane method of finding a leak, (open propane torch
UNLIT 
with engine running move it around the vacuum hoses and base of the carb, if RPM increases you have found a leak). NO SMOKING PLEASE [-X .
Good luck,
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