Broken Bolt

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pblakesley16

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Yep. And it’s that one - the one in the very back of the lower manifold.

I have all the gadgets to get it out - they are just not working. All bolts are out except this one. Have tried drilling and using the special tools available for several days. Just can’t get enough leverage.

If my last recourse to pull the engine? Or is there some ancient secret Chinese ointment I can drop on the bolt that will make it magically disappear?
 

miesk5

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Yo PB,

Some tips from basically the same issue:
In some areas there are guys with portable EDM machines set-up specifically to do broken bolt removal. This is somewhat common is areas where heavy off-highway machines are in frequent use. Not inexpensive, but it is the cleanest, easiest way to get a broken bolt out.

Also, the extractors that have spiral flutes should be wholesale thrown out. If you have to use one, only use those that are a tapered square; and treat them like they are glass hard because they are!

Use the little tiny ball-end bit on a dremel tool to make your starting point for a CARBIDE drill bit (it will,work done it dozens of times)
The burr bit is nice because it does not 'walk' when you start the cut
Find someone who can weld something onto the bolt that you can use to break it free.
If it's mostly flush then your good to go with the weld method, Check out the video below to see what this guy is against. You would be doing the same thing except the initial bead..

GOOD FORTUNE!
 
OP
OP
P

pblakesley16

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Yo PB,

Some tips from basically the same issue:
In some areas there are guys with portable EDM machines set-up specifically to do broken bolt removal. This is somewhat common is areas where heavy off-highway machines are in frequent use. Not inexpensive, but it is the cleanest, easiest way to get a broken bolt out.

Also, the extractors that have spiral flutes should be wholesale thrown out. If you have to use one, only use those that are a tapered square; and treat them like they are glass hard because they are!

Use the little tiny ball-end bit on a dremel tool to make your starting point for a CARBIDE drill bit (it will,work done it dozens of times)
The burr bit is nice because it does not 'walk' when you start the cut
Find someone who can weld something onto the bolt that you can use to break it free.
If it's mostly flush then your good to go with the weld method, Check out the video below to see what this guy is against. You would be doing the same thing except the initial bead..

GOOD FORTUNE!
As always, great feedback. Thank you.
 

johnnyreb

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Yo PB,

Some tips from basically the same issue:
In some areas there are guys with portable EDM machines set-up specifically to do broken bolt removal. This is somewhat common is areas where heavy off-highway machines are in frequent use. Not inexpensive, but it is the cleanest, easiest way to get a broken bolt out.

Also, the extractors that have spiral flutes should be wholesale thrown out. If you have to use one, only use those that are a tapered square; and treat them like they are glass hard because they are!

Use the little tiny ball-end bit on a dremel tool to make your starting point for a CARBIDE drill bit (it will,work done it dozens of times)
The burr bit is nice because it does not 'walk' when you start the cut
Find someone who can weld something onto the bolt that you can use to break it free.
If it's mostly flush then your good to go with the weld method, Check out the video below to see what this guy is against. You would be doing the same thing except the initial bead..

GOOD FORTUNE!
 

johnnyreb

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Thanks Mike. Nice video and very well done and explained. Now --to save the troubles again. What I do before putting the bolts back into the thread is. I put studs in. Then I use a lock washed with two brass taps. That way you don,t have to worry about the bout breaking off. I had to take my heads off and drill them out ,tap the threads. Again,very informative video. Thanks alot. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
 

paul rondelli

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My Bronco went smog exempt last year. I have been waiting to throw some headers on her for years. That includes reading every horror story thread about replacing them.

My front end is sagging and I probably will replace the coil springs/ ball joints/ and axel pivot bushings in the spring........ but when I get around to putting headers on her..... the 302 is definitely coming out first.
 

Tiha

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There are all kinds of tricks.

Is it broken off flush? Stick above? Or Below the surface?

There are a few tricks. One is candle wax. Heat up the area to dry out the oil, or penetrating oil you have is soaking in. Then heat it and melt a candle, keep heating until candle wax runs down in around the threads.
I have not had the best luck with that one.

Usually just heat in general. But don't heat the bolt, heat the area around the bolt.
Heating and cooling cycles help, like heat it red hot and let it cool, then red hot like 3 times. Since they are disimilar metals they expand and contract differently and that helps break the stiction and corrosion.

Beating on it helps. Not beat, but tapping. A lot, Helps break corrosion loose. If you have the hole filled with penetraing oil, as soon as you see the oil run down into the threads it is ready to come out.

Lately I have had good luck with drilling a hole. Heating around it. Driving a torx socket into the hole you just drilled. Yeah it will probably destroy the socket. But then you are using a ratchet and you can feel if it is gripping or slipping and you have all the torque you need. Plus the torx bit will usually strip out and not break off in the hole like an easy out.

Don't ever crank on the bolt when it is read hot. Let it cool a little. Inevitibaly the bolt may get that hot just heating up the area.
 

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