Body work

[sub the redneck]

Y did ford use rivets in the rear quarters instead of spotwelds and would a 74 f100 floor bord fit my 79 bronco floor and the inside cab corner is rotted out were the piller meats the inside rocker panel

 

[joeshmo]

they didnt use rivets that im aware of.. my 78 doesnt have them. and as far as i know you might be able to use the f100 floor i used the floor panels off a 75 highboy for mine

 

[Seabronc]

Y did ford use rivets in the rear quarters instead of spotwelds and would a 74 f100 floor bord fit my 79 bronco floor and the inside cab corner is rotted out were the piller meats the inside rocker panel

If that has rivets, then a previous owner must have replaced the quarters. Rivets should be easy to work with, just drill them out. With welds you need to cut each weld with a weld cutter. It is common to use structural epoxy and blind rivets to do the replacement.

As far as those rotted B-posts, I had the same situation and used good rocker panels and the lower half of B-posts from a donor truck at the local friendly auto recycler. A couple of pictures attached.

The sleeve you see hanging out of the B-post was made from part of the section I cut out. I put it there to have some backing for the new section. It is attached by structural epoxy and blind rivets. A weld bead can also be run around the seam after it is all together for extra strength.

The last picture is the donor truck I used for the rocker, A-post and B-post material. One A-post only needed minor repair. The floorboard came from LMC Truck but I had to cut modify it a bit to get a good fit.

Good luck with yours,

>-

 

[sub the redneck]

Ok thank il c what happens now I found a lot of body parts on bronco graveyard r they good to go throw

 

[Seabronc]

It appears that there is only one supplier of sheet metal parts for the Bronco. No matter where you order from they have the same part numbers on the metal. All are produced in China who apparently bought up the tooling for the parts. Most all require some minor fitting and trimming. as an example, I replaced my driver side floorboard with a part from LMC Truck and it needed some trimming to get it to fit properly. If I had ordered it from Jeff's or a local body repair supplier, I would have gotten the same part from the same manufacturer.

The reason I suggest getting as much from a donor truck or two is that it is a lot less expensive to do it that way. Don't bother getting fenders and quarter panels form a donor since they will already have started to rust out unless you want to disassemble them and take care of the rust before installing them on your truck. Some times that is the only option but avoid it if you can.

Good luck,

>-

 

[sub the redneck]

Ok so the cab corner on my 74 f100 will work

 

[Seabronc]

Ok so the cab corner on my 74 f100 will work

I'm not up on the F-series so if the cab is the same, yes. I just Sawzall off more than I need and use the extra for other things. After cutting it out, use a weld cutter and seam breaker to remove the skin metal. If necessary, I disassemble the sections I cut from a donor vehicle and reassemble them on the project vehicle as needed. Put a backing piece in the post and attach the new post material to it.

Some pictures of the weld tools, structural epoxy I used (you can get it off the Internet or a local body shop parts supplier, there are a couple of different brands, but all do the same work. I used a relatively fast (Fusor 108B) setting epoxy for small areas and a long set epoxy (Fusor 112B) for the quarter panels. I don't generally like welds because that is where 99% of the rust starts.

In the pictures:

1. A backing plate I made from extra post material (had to shrink it down a bit).

2. A weld breaking tool ( used to separate skin seams and break small bits of weld not cut by the weld cutter.

3. Structural Epoxy and gun (automatically mixes the epoxy and hardener in the tube as it comes out).

4. The weld cutting bit in the drill, (it makes life a whole lot easier if you pre-drill a hole with a drill bit in the center of the spot weld).

5. All that metal you see attached to the floor board came from a donor truck, some of it you can't get from any supplier. In this picture you can see The floor board patch the new, (to this truck), rocker panel and B-post repair. I cut that all out of a F150 by cutting far into the floor area to get as much metal as possible, (you never know if you will need a little more than you thought). I then completely disassembled the pieces to clean between the seams, (rust lurks there). Then after cutting out the rusted areas of the project vehicle, I trim the donor metal to the size needed, (note the over lap along the floor board). That is where the structural epoxy and blind rivets go. Before cutting the B-post take a length measurement so the new metal pieces come out the same when assembled ( it would be the pits if you made the new section too short and the door wouldn't shut :-& . Also attach any new metal in place with a couple of temporary sheet metal screws, drill all the holes for blind rivets and then use a flap sander to remove the little pieces of metal left from drilling the holes. If you don't the metal will not go together flush. Then apply the epoxy along one edge, put the overlapping piece on and start holding it together with blind rivets. When the epoxy is set the rivets really only add extra strength to the seam, so I leave them there. The only place you may want to run a weld is on the seam at the B-post. I didn't because I trust the integrity of structural epoxy, that is just a personal opinion, not a suggestion. After the Epoxy is set for a couple of days, I go over all the metal seams with a sealer to prevent any water from getting in there, (both sides of the metal). I also use undercoat and paint over it with Rustolium High performance flat black paint on any surface that isn't getting primed and painted.

Hope that helps. That is the way I do it others may do it another way. In my opinion, it really doesn't matter as long as the result is the same.

Good luck,

>-

 

[sub the redneck]

I just got a 78 body for 300 it's from Caly no rust no rot a fue dents but not bad And all the glass is in it and a full wire harness