'96 front brake replacement

[RiverTrekker]

Hey there! Gonna jump in with this first post of many.

So back in 2010 as The Beast and I were moving to California, we were delayed in Bakersfield when 4 of 5 studs on the front passenger side wheel snapped off while on the highway. Towed it to the local pep-boys where they did me a solid by "rebuilding the hub" and getting me back on the road for $100. (Original bill was $360) Unfortunately, they had to "***** up the abs" to get me back on the road for that price. I am grateful for their help and don't blame them for not being able to do more for me at that time. The money was just not there. Anyway, since then my brakes have never been the same. They have run the gambit from mushy to kicking to pulling in any direction The Beast felt like going.

A month ago, I finally had the cash to take care of the front brakes once and for all. I mentioned before my mechanical knowledge/skill set is limited, and brake jobs is just outside that limit...for now. Took The Beast to a local shop were they did a standard brake job on the rear brakes (that I didn't ask for), replaced the master cylinder, and said I need new front rotors, calipers, and pads. Plus, they kept it for 4 days longer and a few hundred over the original estimate claiming they couldn't find parts. I felt a scam coming on so I just told them to put it back together, I'm taking The Beast home.

Upside: rear brakes are doing great and most of the mushy, kicking, and pulling is gone...as far as I can tell. Downside: front end sounds worse than ever before and The Beast is making familiar sounds and feels very much like it did just outside of Bakersfield. No studs have broken off and I am not planning on driving it until I have a plan. I know the abs system is still screwed up but I don't know if it can be fixed separately or if it is integrated. The shop mentioned something about the abs sensor on the rotor then quoted another couple hundred, so not sure what is going on with that.

I am not sure I believe them when they said I need a new front system, but since The Beast and I are in it for the long haul I figure why not treat her right and get her a new brake set up. I'd love to hear ya'll's thoughts on this and recommendations for brakes. I do a lot of city/highway commuting and dirt roads, up and downhill grades to get to trailheads, etc. I don't "off road" or "4wheel" (sorry I don't even know the proper terms for that style of fun). I do haul heavy loads inside her and plan to get a hitch for her in the future for hauling heavy loads by trailer, too.

Thank for any help ya'll can give!

 

[miesk5]

yo RiverTrekker

Often, the 4WABS (93-96) Tone Ring on front will be damaged during brake service and is not due to faulty workmanship; same for the front wheel 4WABS Sensors,

Here are some excerpts from my archived site;

4WABS Sensor, Front Wheel, Removal & Installation in 93-96 Bronco; "...Step 10: Remove the ABS sensor shield. This is the part that is on the front of the steering knuckle. It wraps around the silver sensor cover and overlaps the spindle. It can be seen in the picture above on the right hand side of the spindle. Behind the steering knuckle you will find a small 12-point bolt that holds the ABS sensor shield to the knuckle. Use the 6mm 12 point socket to remove this bolt. The sheild on the knuckle should fall off or come off easily. If not, you can PB Blast the spot where the shield rests against the steering knuckle and let it sit for a few minutes, then tap lightly with the SFH. If you have to use force to remove the shield, be very careful not to damage the sensor. Step 11: Remove the bolt holding the sensor. Above the small bolt you just removed, you will see a larger bolt that holds the rear sensor cover and the sensor against the back of the steering knuckle. Use the 8 mm socket to remove this bolt. NOTE: You will not have to remove the sensor to remove the spindle, only the bolt..."
Source: by Shane C. (BigBlue, bigbluebronk)

4WABS Component Locations & Operation; "...Anti-Lock Hydraulic Control Unit (2C215) located in the front of the engine compartment on the left frame rail. Anti-lock brake electronic control module located in the engine compartment behind the driver's side headlamp on a bracket mounted on the surface of the plastic fender apron. Two front brake anti-lock sensors (2C204) are attached to the suspension knuckles. The front brake anti-lock sensor indicators (2C182) are pressed onto the backside of the rotors. Rear axle speed sensor integrated into the rear axle housing. Acceleration sensor attached to the left frame rail under the driver. Stoplight switch (13480) located at the brake pedal (2455). Main relay (14N089) located in the power distribution box. Pump motor relay located in the power distribution box. System diode located in the relay box mounted behind the power distribution box with the main relay. Fuses for system power and the pump motor are both located in the power distribution box..." read more
 

Try this DIY 4WABS Self Test & Test Connector Diagram, Component Locations, DTCs, 93-96; USE THIS PROCESS! "...The 4WABS TEST Connector is red; located at the left-hand side (driver's side) of the engine compartment and marked ANTI-LOCK TEST; Light Flash Technique 1. Note: If 12V test light is not available, the amber ABS warning light also flashes during this test. Locate test connector in the engine compartment and install 12V test light between Pins C and E. 2. With the ignition off, jumper Pin E to B. 3. Turn key to RUN position. 4. Remove jumper between Pins E and B after 5 seconds. 5. Count light flashes of test light or amber ABS warning light..." read more; miesk5 Note; for all Resistance tests, battery needs to be disconnected; remove Negative cable at battery
Source: by Steve83 http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=255501&original=1

POST any Code(s) found here

 

[Rons beast]

Hey River T,

Welcome

The front brakes are actually easier to service than the rear. (in my estimation)

Get yourself a manual, or go to the library, or search on the net for a video on replacing the front brakes.

The shop said you needed new rotors, calipers and pads.  They may be trying to put the system into the best condition they can, and avoid a comeback, because your Beast pulls when braking or some other issue.  The line of thinking here is that the vehicle is 17 yrs old and parts, while not faulty now, can become so quickly especially when they are put into service while asked to work with newly installed parts.

Here is my belief, and what I would do, ( and have done) with my truck:

  Replace the calipers AND flex hoses when replacing front pads.  If they haven't been replaced in the past 80kmile or 7 to 8 years, they are at the edge of their service. Now many guys and /or girls may say "just push the pistons back in the caliper bore and slap the pads on." That may be ok with them, but they are placing an important braking component into a worn, contaminated, possibly rusty environment.  In my opinion...not good.  Yes you can make them go longer, but you are taking a risk that these parts will fail or cause undesireable results.  

  The rotors....In your situation the back of the rotor that is ribbed is important for proper function of the ABS. may have been damaged when replacing the studs.  I would replace this rotor AND the other side as well.  I never recomend replacing only one rotor, especially when that would leave you with one new and one very used rotor. (a note on this...I had a difficult time finding the proper rotors for The Beast.  Most part stores showed only one type and it was the wrong one....so there is truth in the statement that parts are hard to find.  remember this is a 17 year old truck.) 

  Hardware and seals... I would replace these as well..there is no sence in replacing parts with new and using old worn pieces to anchor or seal them  ( some new/ rebuilt calipers come with a hardware kit....seals for the rotors must be purchased seperatly)

  Bearings...if they are not galled, or pitted and the races are smooth across the entire face, they can be cleaned, and repacked with the proper grease.

ABS sensors....these are actually easy to replace one bolt holds the sensor to the back of the backing plate of the rotor, and the wire is followed to under the hood where it is unclipped and the new sensors can be plugged in. The sensors are not that expensive...about $50 to $60 each.

If you have a shop do the brakes, negotiate for them to do a check of the ABS codes for free to determine if the sensors are throwing a default code.   You can then decide to have the sensors replaced or do it yourself.

All this is actually pretty easy stuff...you may need to get a special socket for the front bearing nut, but if you have a Bronc you will probably need it in the future. take your time, do one side at a time, and have a manual for referance if you need it.

Good Luck

 

[miesk5]

yo,

I was rushed this morning so I didn't include this for you; it will help you when doing the work or discussing it with a shop.

1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab, Motorhome Chassis and Bronco Workshop Manual (PARTIAL)
 

Group 06: BRAKE SYSTEM​

includes;​

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Hot Links to Front Disc R&R, etc, Rear Drum & Pad R&R, etc.), DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING, SERVICE PROCEDURES, CLEANING AND INSPECTION, ADJUSTMENTS, SPECIFICATIONS & SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS/EQUIPMENT​

 ​

 ​

 The hub locks, Automatic or Manual are in Section 05-03C:Wheel Hubs and Bearings, Front Wheels, 4-Wheel Drive​

Spindles are in Section 05-03A: :Axle, Front Drive, Dana Models 44 and 50​

 ​

 ​

  This manual does not include the electronic diagnosis and testing, it is in the Ford Bronco Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM/PCED-Powertrain Controls and Emission Diagnosis Manual) on CD; Avail from e bay; should be around $10.00; best $ you'll ever spend​

 ​

But I have a lot of the pin-point testing ready if you need it,​

 ​

__________________

 ​

 

[RiverTrekker]

Wow! Thank you guys for the info! Great links. I admit I'm scratching my head on a few of them but that part of a learning process I think. Ron, you made some puzzle pieces fall into place and now I'm inspired and have planning and research to do. Very exciting! Miesk5, those links in the second posting really helped answer many questions and gave names to thing #1 and thing #2. Thank you!

I'll keep ya'll posted on the project. Feel free to keep the info coming. Knowledge is power after all

 

[miesk5]

yo, Piecemeal again bec I have to rush at times.

This parts are probably what the shop couldn't seem to find;

Dana 44 Front Wheel & Spindle Installation in a 96; w/Links
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

 

[RiverTrekker]

So, as I have been doing research and hunting down parts I have been running across this Dana 44 or D44.  There are also D50 and D70.  I get they are referring to the axle.  Is it the size for the axle?  The Brand?  I am assuming mine is a stock D44.  I ask because I am thinking of replacing the hub as well, since it has been rebuilt a couple times and I just don't trust it anymore.

Thanks again for the great help and patience with my newbie questions!

 

[Rons beast]

Hey RT,

Dana is the manufacturer. The numbers refer to the series/ size.

I cannot remember the outward sight indications to identify what series the axle is. there should be a tag on the pumpkin.

I'm sure there are others here that will be able to point to an easy identification, but I don't know that. The vin tag on the door should also have the code.