yo
if the fuses are good; read this by Phil;
"..You need to remove the black dash bezel from the dasboard. You can only remove the rear window switch, 4x4 switch and the defroster switch once the bezel is removed.
1) remove lower dash panel
2) using a small flat blade ***** driver, CAREFULLY pry off the thin plastic colored trim strips on each side of the steering wheel. These are pressed into the dash bezel and can only be removed by popping them off the bezel
3) once the trim pieces are removed, unscrew the (2) Torx head screws found under those previously mentioned trim strips
4) remove headlight switch ****. Use a pick or smaller flat ***** driver, find the slot in the ****'s shaft and within that slot, you want to pry the little metal tab forward towards you as you are pulling the **** off of the switch stalk
5) if an auto trans, put the keys in and move the trans gear selector to it's lowest point
6) carefully pry the entire bezel towards you. It is pressed into the dash with multiple pins behind it, so it will take a little effort to removing it CAREFULLY.
7) once the bezel is removed, the switches are secured to the back side by (2) Phillips head screws
8) remove the screws for the switch, unplug the electrical connector from the switch and now you can work on it or replace
then;
Over the past weekend, I finally tackled the rear window on my 94 Bronco.
The next thing I did was to remove the dash switch. After removing the dash switch, I picked up a small flat head ***** driver and popper off the "rocker" switch cover from the main body of the switch. I squirted electrical contact cleaner all over the contacts within the main switch assembly both on the front and back. After doing this, I then snapped the rocker switch cover back on the main body and plugged it back into the dash harness. After doing this, I was able to get the window to go down, but not up....
I removed the switch again from the dash harness and again removed the rocker switch cover from the body of the switch. I noticed there are (4) contact points for each copper tab within the switch (1 copper tab for "up" and 1 copper tab for "down). (2) contact points for up, (2) are for down. These contact points really resemble a "points" ignition system on an old car, where there is a small metal disc attached to a flimsy piece of flat metal (in this instance, copper) and the two discs make contact to generate a spark or electricty. If any of you know about a points ignition system, the contact points eventually get "burnt" or worn due to the constant electrical pulses when the system is operational (or in this case, when the switch is depressed up or down). To remedy this, I took a small jeweler's flat head ***** driver and carefully scratched the surfaces of all (4) contact points. This in turn removed the corroded or burnt surfaces and revealed "new metal" from under the worn surfaces. After cleaning the contact points, I then squirted the electrical contact cleaner all over the switch front & back again, popped the rocker switch cover back onto the main switch body and reinstalled into the dash.
Now I was able to get the rear tailgate window to go UP and DOWN smoothly!!! I tested this multiple times, over and over - with KOEO and KOEO, the switch worked flawlessly like new again!
I had (2) of these rear tailgate window switches and did the same procedure to the other switch that was "dead" and that switch also now works.
So - for those who are having intermittent rear window problems when using the DAS MOUNTED REAR WINDOW SWITCH - try the above FIRST, before spending the $$$$ for a new switch or going crazy... I'm not saying this is the cure all for everyone, but I have a feeling everyone else's dash mounted switch may have the same wear on the contact points..."
and by our pal BroncoJoe19 (Joe) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums - Switch, In Dash Testing
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/692844/original/tgmotorwiring.jpg
and Steve's testing
