My wife has a 95 Bronco (5.8L) in mint condition because she babies it. It has run fine and without issue in the past but I have a dilemma now. When we try to start it everything comes on and I can hear the fuel pump prime but it wont turn over. Based on friends suggestions I replaced the starter, the battery and the solenoid (? The black node on the side of the firewall). After replacing the starter it started and ran fine but now it is doing the "turn the key and doesnt turn over" again. This is the wifes sole source of transporation so I am stuck. Any suggestions would be gratefully accepted.
95 Bronco 5.8L wont turn over
- Thread starter Kel
- Start date
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When you say wont turn over, you mean the engine doesnt crank at all? Could be a few different things. A bad ground could cause this. Clean and tighten all the main grounds. Check condition of battery posts and clean battery posts. Check condition of the starter cable that goes from solinoid to starter. Have battery tested, could read 12 volts and turn on 12 volts accessories but when it comes time to crank engine over could be lacking. Try jumpingh the solinoid by placing a screwdriver across the starter wire post on solinoid to the small terminal, can also use a small jumper wire. See if it turns over this way.
Yes it will not turn over at all. It doesnt even do the starter clicking. The battery terminals are spotless clean and the connections are tight. All the cables are tight and well grounded, I checked that thinking it was a bad ground. I have not tried jumping the solinoid yet though and will after work. I will let you know.
Thank you for your quick response.
If you are 100 percent positive on the cables, there are 2 small grounds on the rad support. One on each side of the radiator. Those MUST be clean and tight or the engine will not turn over. Other than that I suspect, solinoid, crappy battery or the starter switch on your steering column.
I will double check all my grounds to make sure they are tight and havent worked free.
Thank you.
Ok the connections are good and I tried pushing the gear shifter up and neutral and no go. I did the short across the relay on the side firewall and it just clicks once and doesnt try more. Is that a starter issue? I just put in a brand new starter.
I saw a reference to something called a Thick Film Ignition Module and it causing the ignition coil to go bad. Does this seem like a possibility and where can I find this?
I saw a reference to something called a Thick Film Ignition Module and it causing the ignition coil to go bad. Does this seem like a possibility and where can I find this?
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If the ignition module goes then there is no spark but cranks over just fine. I would try another battery if you have one handy. Since it didnt crank over with the jumper wire that would eliminate the starter switch. Your problem is in the battery, or the solinoid. Solinoids are cheap so maybe just replace that. Take careful note where the wires go. What you are describing sounds like a bad ground, you have tested that so next would be battery connections, you tested that so then starter, you replaced that. That leaves the battery and the solinoid. Solinoid is cheaper so thats why I say replace that.
drewscott
New member
This may not help, but I just had the same thing happen to me. I would turn the key, and nothing would happen. No crank, no battery click. Just idiot lights. In my case, it was a snapped transmission shifter cable. Since the cable was gone, the Neutral Safety Switch wouldn't let the ignition turn over.
Broncoholic1992
New member
Does the engine chug at all? or does it just stay quiet?
Bebop Man
Member
I had something similar a couple weeks ago. I turn the key, and it's like it's completely dead. No courtesty light, no dash lights, nada (though I did still have power on the cigarette lighter)
I dropped the steering column and tested the ignition switch. That was ok, but I noticed that the switch module has some adjustement to it. I slid it up a bit, based on the where the rod from the key cylinder is when the key is in ACC, then bolted it down tight. Since then it's worked like a champ
If that rod has some play in it, it may not actuate the ignition switch.
I had a mechanic friend tell me that the little hook that attaches that rod to the key cylinder can break off. You turn the key, but the rod (and the ignition switch) don't move.
Just a couple ideas to help you.
I dropped the steering column and tested the ignition switch. That was ok, but I noticed that the switch module has some adjustement to it. I slid it up a bit, based on the where the rod from the key cylinder is when the key is in ACC, then bolted it down tight. Since then it's worked like a champ
If that rod has some play in it, it may not actuate the ignition switch.
I had a mechanic friend tell me that the little hook that attaches that rod to the key cylinder can break off. You turn the key, but the rod (and the ignition switch) don't move.
Just a couple ideas to help you.
BroncoJoe19
Active member
Perhaps a few days late, but since you have done all that yardape suggested, I suspect that it is like steve83 suggested. The fender mounted relay is not grounded to the fender.
You may also want to check to make sure the fender is properly grounded.
How to Check a ground
Turn the power to the circuit on, and using a digital volt meter, put one lead to the grounded wire, and the other to a good ground. If there is voltage, clean your ground.
Turn power to the circuit off, and use a self powered test light, or an ohm meter, and test the grounded wire to a good ground. IF the light goes on, or there is continuity on the ohm meter, then the ground is probably good. (There may still be ressistance in the connection, if significant one will see it in the ohm meter, or the light may not shine brightly.) Using a DVM is a better method!
good ground.
The best ground is the battery neg terminal. There may be some resistance in the battery connector, and wire(s) that then connect to the engine block, body frame, and interframe connections. To locate a good ground, one should use a DVM digital volt meter, and put one probe to the bat neg terminal, and the other to a ground. Ideally there will be no voltage recorded (unless there is an open) a few millivolts are acceptable. If one finds voltage, one must locate any poor connections between that ground and the neg terminal of the bat, and clean it.
You may also want to check to make sure the fender is properly grounded.
How to Check a ground
Turn the power to the circuit on, and using a digital volt meter, put one lead to the grounded wire, and the other to a good ground. If there is voltage, clean your ground.
Turn power to the circuit off, and use a self powered test light, or an ohm meter, and test the grounded wire to a good ground. IF the light goes on, or there is continuity on the ohm meter, then the ground is probably good. (There may still be ressistance in the connection, if significant one will see it in the ohm meter, or the light may not shine brightly.) Using a DVM is a better method!
good ground.
The best ground is the battery neg terminal. There may be some resistance in the battery connector, and wire(s) that then connect to the engine block, body frame, and interframe connections. To locate a good ground, one should use a DVM digital volt meter, and put one probe to the bat neg terminal, and the other to a ground. Ideally there will be no voltage recorded (unless there is an open) a few millivolts are acceptable. If one finds voltage, one must locate any poor connections between that ground and the neg terminal of the bat, and clean it.
Thanks for your suggestion Bebop, but for future troubleshooting, maybe this will help you out. That was the reason that a jumper wire was suggested to jump across the solenoid. If it would have cranked over we would have focused in on the starter switch as you suggested, but since it didnt we eliminated that possibility. But thanks again for the idea.
broncotough
New member
i had a similiar problem with an 86 xlt bronco. it would not start unles you pushed up on the top of the steering wheel. i did this for about a month before i broke the tilt mechanizum. it ended up being the rod out of adjustment. the whole thing fell apart. ended up buying a key switch at the parts store, and bypassing the stock switch. i dont recommend doing this. try to fix it right if you can.
Bebop Man
Member
In the scenario I ran into, when I jumped across the starter solenoid, the motor would turn over, but not fire. In other words, JUST the starter was engaged, none of the rest of the ignition / fuel system was running.
I have that exact same problem that you described. the truck turns over went jumping the starter solenoid. I have tried replacing it and the key ignintion. I have also checked the cables to the starter solenoid and still no luck. The truck runs great when I jump the starter solenoid. But it does not even try to turn over with the key whatsoever
