93 bronco door locks

[Jus10pa2]

Both power locks on my 93 bronco EB aren't working. When I hit the unlock switch all I hear is somewhat of a grinding noise, this is on ether switch.... Any thoughts?

 

[Krafty]

my best idea at this point it to determine where it is making the grinding noise then we can look at causes after. dig in a little deeper and report what you find.

 

[Elmo]

sounds like the lock actuators are not grounding properly or are shot,but since its both i would venture towards a problem in the area of the drivers switch ground circuit.

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Actuator Bracket Removal & Installation Video in a 94; "..,an effective way to expand the metal lock solenoid bracket to ease removal and installation...."; MIESK5 Note, Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window

Source: by pfun41 at

Actuator, Power Replacement in 87-96; "...One note first these directions are for the driver's side door. Please reverse the "left" and "right" directions for the passenger side door. Otherwise it is the same. Ok, first of all, take off the door panel. It is not necessary to remove the smaller panel underneath the main door panel. The actuator is on the lower left hand side. It is held on by a bracket that is riveted onto the side of the door. Do not remove the rivet!! This was my first impulse, but it is not necessary, and will actually cause a major headache if you do. It is a large rivet, and cannot be replaced with a standard riveting gun. The actuator snaps into the plastic bracket that is held on by the rivet. If you have a used actuator still in the bracket, it is helpful because you can see and feel how it is held on. If not, here is what it is like the actuator has two small "arms" which have rubber doughnuts on them, about 3/8" in diameter. These snap into the plastic bracket. The openings on the bracket point down. That is very important, since you have to know which way to push the actuator to get it out, because you can't see it. What I did was to put my right arm in the second hole from the bottom of the sheet metal, got a good hold on the actuator, and pushed hard, and it came out. It took a few tries. Push the doughnuts out one at a time, by using a diagonal motion. You probably will not have enough leverage to simply push it straight down. Then just slide the rod out of the hole, and pull the actuator out. Unplug the connector and you are ready for the new one to go in. On mine, one of the rubber doughnuts stayed in the bracket, and it is very annoying trying to get it out because the bracket turns around once the actuator is out. Try to avoid this. Now, before putting the new one in, grease the "threads" on the bottom of the rod, or it will probably squeak when you hit the button. I had to grease mine after the fact, so do this first. Unscrew the rod to make it as long as possible before putting it into the door, so it will hang low enough to get under the bracket. Then, plug in the connector, and make sure you have the wire routed on the outside (towards the outside of the truck) of the rod that goes to the door handle. The tricky part now is to get the rod into the hole. But, if you feel around while moving the lock up and down, you can find where this is, and best of all if you put your eye in the right spot, you can actually see it and get the rod right in. At this point, the actuator will be hanging by the rod, and will be plugged in. You just have to get it into the bracket. I had no trouble getting the doughnuts up into the bracket, so I was done! I just pushed it straight up into the bracket. Moistening the doughnuts will help make it easier. Then I tested the lock, and put on the door panel..."

Source: by JBronco

MORE LINIKS in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=115

such as;

Wiring Diagram in 92 Bronco & F Series

Source: by Chilton

Operation & Diagram, Part 2; "...The door lock circuit is a common (Ford) polarity-reversing circuit with 2 switches. The switches share the power feed from the battery (always hot). The left (driver's) switch normally holds both motor wires to ground, and the right (passenger's) switch normally holds the motor wires to the left switch wires. When either is operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motors. When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motors' direction. Neither switch is a master because neither will work if the other is in the opposite position. Note that the driver's lock motor is not connected to the driver's lock switch. To add relays or switches to the common Ford power lock circuit (like a remote keyless entry system), the power & ground are spliced, but the lock & unlock wires must be cut in ONE of the locations indicated by a dashed line. The Bk/Wh wire is not cut. Uplus = unlock positive; UC = unlock common Lplus = lock positive; LC = lock common. Obviously, the new ground can be attached to any reliable ground point; not strictly where indicated. But the new power splice should be on the Bk/Wh circuit so it shares the factory circuit breaker, and has constant power. Any number or switches or relays can be added, but each one must be CUT into the lock & unlock circuits as indicated. Factory RKE (optional 94-up) uses a positve-trigger circuit which can be simply spliced..."