yo,
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test
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Vacuum Leak Test; see my post @
http://broncozone.com/topic/22770-low-idle/
excerpts;
On an idling engine check for vacuum leaks using a mechanic's stethoscope with the probe removed, or a ~3' garden hose section. BEWARE of fab, belts, pulleys and hot engine/hoses.
On COLD ENGINE only, use propane torch w/rubber hose attached, UNLIT (have fire ext @ hand for all tests)
or spray carb cleaner, when it gets to the the leak the RPMs will rise.
Also check: vacuum hoses; intake manifold gasket & throttle body and lower intake;
Vacuum Tree
PCV line
Air Diverter Valve (AIRD) from TAD Solenoid & Air Bypass Valve (AIR BPV) from TAB Solenoid or a Air Bypass Valve (AIR BPV) & Air Diverter Valve (AIRD) Combination located behind the intake manifold
vacuum reservoirs
AC, heater, defroster, vent control ckt & vacuum tank (plastic ball, or an irregular box glued to the evaporator cover), under dash & lines to heat/blend/etc. doors; & HVAC vacuum reservoir;
Carbon Canister (Charcoal Canister, Vapor Canister, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister for the Evaporative System
Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)
and line to & Cruise Control sys in 86-91
leaky O-rings around the fuel injectors are allowing air to leak past the seals.
worn throttle shaft
& Line to & the power brake booster, Master Cylinder & Booster