'86 Bronco

[bcpetersjr]

Hey guys I just bought an '86 Bronco that does not run. I am looking at fixing it up. I don't have any pics yet but I will be going to where it is being stored tonight and take some. I think I am going to stick with the 351w although we will do some minor things to it for now. I just need it up and running so I can make sure everything else works. I was wondering if you guys have any advice for things to watch out for when fixing this thing. It needs some minor stuff done like the back window is sluggish going up and down and the power locks don't work. I can hear the mechanism working but it seems to be disconnected from the actual lock. I am going to end up putting a 4"-6" lift on it as well. Do you think it is better to stay with the TTB or go to solid axle and is there anything you think I should look out for or take into consideration?

 

[90bronco86]

Well all of that really depends on a few things, what are you using the truck for, what are your mechanical abilities and most important is cash, as for it not running we need more info such as what its doing or not doing.

 

[miesk5]

yo BC,

For the Tailgate;

Lubricate glass friction areas against & inside weather stripping with Silicone

Lubrication Discussion; "...My rear window has been giving me problems for the last 4 months. It would go down a few inches and it would get stuck. Then I would either have to rock the dash switch back and forth to get it to go down or go to the back and use the key with one hand and push down the window with the other. Very frustrating. FIX: 1) First roll down the window, drop the gate and take off the inside panel (about 8 philips head screws) covering the tailgate. You will see pretty much nothing but glass after doing this. 2) Then manually flip the latches so you can use the key to roll the window back up. ***Very Important*** Put something under the window to support it, sawhorse, lawnmower or whatever. The weight of the glass could cause it to break when rolled up with the tailgate down. 3) After the glass is up you'll have access to the inside mechanisms. If you bend over and look at the underside you'll see a couple of arms that attach to two 6"-8" pieces of channel. These arms move along the channel to raise and lower the glass. 4) Get some grease and smear inside both channels. You don't have to glob it in there just put enough that it goes completely on and along the inside of the channels. 5) Roll the glass back down. 6) Put your inside panel back on. 7) Pull your tailgate release handle one time to make your latches go back to the open position and close your tailgate. 8) Now roll up your window and see if it helped any. Mine goes up just as smooth as ever now. It doesn't slow down a bit. Now this may not work for everyone but it sure worked on my rig. Brian..BTW, this took about 45 minutes start to finish...." miesk5 Note, Use PTFE grease for slides & tracks. Use silicone spray on the weatherbelts & glass run; test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now Source: by msuforeman (Brian)

Glass Roller (Dorman Universal Window Roller 74402) Installation in an 85

Source: by spikedzombies (O' Black Betty) at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/18028/66512

Motor Gear Torque Pin, Door, but same (also called Bushing) Info & pics in an 88 (see his picture titles)

Source: by Adrianspeeder (The OJ Special, The Lariat, The Bronco) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/8571/28339

Glass Replacement (most pics are gone); by RFR (Mark B) at http://web.archive.org/web/20030709205117/rfr.htmlplanet.com/bronco/journal/journal_page07.html

Click on; Impatient?

in lower right corner to speed up opening

Troubleshooting Synopsis; "...The tail gate circuit is pretty easy to resolve with a meter. Attached is a diagram of the circuit. Note that there are two fuses which you may have already found out...." READ MORE

by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/topic/7671-tailgate-window-switch/

more TG info LINKS @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=478

 

[bcpetersjr]

Well all of that really depends on a few things, what are you using the truck for, what are your mechanical abilities and most important is cash, as for it not running we need more info such as what its doing or not doing.

I will be using the truck for camping and towing a trailer. As far as the engine sorry I wasn't asking for advice on that. I know it needs a new motor I was just telling you guys about the truck. I am just trying to get to know people on here and see if anyone has anything for me to look out for when make some of these repairs.

 

[Seabronc]

Welcome to the Zone /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> . In my opinion the solid axle is a better design. Have fun doing the modifications, and post pictures.

Good luck,

 

[90bronco86]

Well you picked a good year bronco, i just sold my 86 and honestly other than the fact the previous owner was an idiot and didnt take care of it i had no problems with it, all it ever neeeded was oil and gas, i mean we could not **** that truck, and it wasnt from lack of trying lol.

 

[skeef2012]

I have a 1986 that I am doing a frame up restoration on, and while I love the truck I have found a few things about that I am not crazy about.

The TTB is good unless you want to do any extreme off roading. A solid axle will give you better clearance and a more rugged design. The stock TTB axles can snap under rough conditions.

The 1986 model uses bank fire fuel injection and a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor and static tables to control air fuel mixture a various RPM ranges. If you want to do anything performance-wise such as a cam, or change up the intakes, you'll have a tough time at idle because the changes in the manifild pressure will confuse your computer. This means that you'll need to go to a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor setup to deal with that. That can be an expensive conversion involving harness changes, computer change, etc. and it's not cheap (over $1000). This also changes your bank fire injection to sequential fire injection. Sometimes that changes the firing order, so you need to make sure your cam and computer use the same firing order. Bottom line is I learned a heck of alot about the EEC control systems, but at the end of the day I was longing for the good ole days of a 4-BBL Holley and an MSD Ingition.

Depending on your state, you may not be required to have emissions controls so you can get of the EGR and smog pump. This allegedly reduces your gas mileage by a very small amount, but since you are not driving exhaust gas back through your intake it will remain alot cleaner and require less maintenance.

Other than that I love the 86, and can't wait to get it back on the road again.