86 B2 Manual Tran 5-speed No-Shifting

[Obronco2]

My 1986 Ford Bronco 2, 5-speed overdrive manual transmission. The clutch is not releasing when I push the pedal in, If I let it set a while with the engines shut off, it will release enough once or twice to shift between gears and then quits. It drives fine when I can get it into gear, no slippage. Could it be just the release bearing (throw-out bearing) that needs replaced? I've never replaced one of these hydraulic clutches, is it hard, special tools required kind of work? <_<

 

[The Fox]

Don't know much, but it could also be master/ ***** cylinder in the hydrolic system.

 

[Obronco2]

Appreciate the reply MR Fox.

I would think (whoa there) that if it was the master/***** cylinder on the firewall that was causing the problem..... I would be losing fluid in the resevour... and I'm not.

I gess it could be sucking air?

Now that the only 4x4 I own is down and out... they are calling for a few inches of snow here in southwest MO. It will probably snow 2 foot because of my 4x4 being un-drivable. It seems like evey time I have trouble with it (the bronco) we get record amounts of snow.

Keep an eye on the national weather, they'll be talking about poor hillbilly's having trouble getting the out-house door open. Not to worry, FEMA will be there by summer

 

[broncodanger]

:huh:

My 1986 Ford Bronco 2, 5-speed overdrive manual transmission. The clutch is not releasing when I push the pedal in, If I let it set a while with the engines shut off, it will release enough once or twice to shift between gears and then quits. It drives fine when I can get it into gear, no slippage. Could it be just the release bearing (throw-out bearing) that needs replaced? I've never replaced one of these hydraulic clutches, is it hard, special tools required kind of work? <_<

:huh: it not that bad do change the clutch you do need one specail tool to take the hydraulic line off the side of tranny housing. but it comes with the clutch kit. but first check the hydralic clutch resovrore to see if it is full. if so try this idea first. go under neath next to your hydraulic clucth line and serch the top left area and look for the bleeder valve it may have a cap on it. now your gonna bleed that valve just like you would if you were bleeding the brakes. just keep checking the resovrore dont let it get empty if so you will have to repeat the process. do it about 3 or 4 times. that is what i would check first. if it dont work then i would change clutch. but that special tool is to take the hydralic line off. and when you go to change the pillot bearing it calls for a slide hammer but i couldnt find one that would fit so i had to shoot a bunch of grease in it untill it poped out >-

 

[Obronco2]

:huh: :huh: it not that bad do change the clutch you do need one specail tool to take the hydraulic line off the side of tranny housing. but it comes with the clutch kit. but first check the hydralic clutch resovrore to see if it is full. if so try this idea first. go under neath next to your hydraulic clucth line and serch the top left area and look for the bleeder valve it may have a cap on it. now your gonna bleed that valve just like you would if you were bleeding the brakes. just keep checking the resovrore dont let it get empty if so you will have to repeat the process. do it about 3 or 4 times. that is what i would check first. if it dont work then i would change clutch. but that special tool is to take the hydralic line off. and when you go to change the pillot bearing it calls for a slide hammer but i couldnt find one that would fit so i had to shoot a bunch of grease in it untill it poped out >-

Appreciate your well described reply BroncoDanger.

I gave-up and took it to the shop. Too cold for me to be working on right now but, since I