yo stretch22,
Also, take time to go through this by FORD;
Four Wheel Drive (4X4) General Information, Operation & Troubleshooting TSB 92-1-8 forBronco, F Series & Ranger; Includes NP 208 & BW 1356 Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Troubleshooting & Hub Operation, etc.
SEE Page 19 - Nothing Happens
you'll see a few quick checks in there, such as
motor position sensor indicates the position of the shift motor shaft. When this sensor isn't functioning properly or the motor stops slightly off location, the shift control module may become "confused."
check the power sources, fuses 12 & 18 (17 is for dash indicator lamps)
and grounds G100, G101, G200
G100 @ LH front of engine compartment on upper radiator support-in front of WS washer/Coolant overflow tank; G101 front of fender apron-between starter relay & head light; G200 behind RH kick panel; Location in Engine Bay pics
by subford (Bill K) at
http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g91/subford/Electrical/Grounds/
1356 Electric Shift Wiring Diagram in a 94 Source: by Mikey350
Disconnect the "B" and "C" connectors, turn on the ignition and allow 4 seconds for the module to power up. Then push the self-test button. If the LED doesn't illuminate, the module is dead and must be replaced. If the LED comes on and stays on for 30 seconds, there is an error condition and the module will have to be replaced. If the module is OK the LED will flash 4 times.
This test, however, is not 100 percent accurate. During the test, the vehicle isn't operating, so the shift control module isn't receiving data and initiating shifts. If the unit passes the self-test, it's probably a good module. Go on to check for other probable causes, but don't rule out the module entirely. If your search doesn't turn up any other cause, it may be the module after all. You may have to try replacing the module even though it passed the self-test.
To check if the transfer case motor is actually functioning (because it may be hard to hear it in a noisy shop) attach a voltmeter to A4 and A5. Have someone activate a shift and look for a brief (one second) increase in voltage and listen for the relay to click on, then off.
If there is power present, then the control module is trying to run the motor. At this point, unbolt the motor and have someone activate a shift again. If the motor doesn't actually turn, it is malfunctioning and must be replaced.
If there is no power to the motor, check both the power circuits again and the sensors. If there is incorrect sensor data, the module won't power the motor
read more
1356 Electric Shift Control Module Location pic in an 94-96; The module is labeled T-case control "...; I MIS-labelled as "Airbag" is actually the Wiper Control Module (WCM). The Airbag Diagnostic Module (ADM) is light blue, wrapped in black foam, above the gas pedal..."
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at
http://oldfuelinjection.com/public/inertia_switch_87-96.jpg
and see more info Links in my site @
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=70
such as;
try again; if no go, have someone get under and whack motor w/rubber mallet; don't run over them!
1356 Electric Shift Motor Typical Failures & Prevention; "...Most units fail because of water or mud intrusion. Carefully inspect motor boot or protective coverings. Be sure connector seals can keep water and debris out. Check wiring harness and connector. Replace or repair wiring as necessary. After installation, periodically select 4-wheel drive mode to ensure operation when needed..."
1356 Electric Shift Motor Troubleshooting & Repair (travel stops); "...OK, so we're all aware that the electric shift BW1356 setup sucks. A common problem seems to be that the travel stop breaks when it returns to 2WD, causing it to move just out of range so that it won't engage 4WD again. I've fixed mine twice so far, and I took some pics today when I did it. When you pull the motor from the transfer case, here's what you'll see..." read more
Source: by Richard C (Bigric, Money Pit
