4" with 35s

[89eddie89]

im thinkin bout 4" rough country lift with 35x12.50x15 bfg mud. is it ok to go wheelin in it? i go places where stock cars go through these trails...

any tips or what you think of a 4" runnin 35's?

 

[Justshootme84]

I personally would go 6" lift for 35's, but you may get by with 4" like some folks do. Depends somewhat on the brand of lift kit, tire and wheel size, and year model of your rig. JSM84

 

[green streak]

personally, i think 33's are the limit on a 4 inch lift. especially in ruts or off-camber situations. if it serves as street duty only 35's would work though. good luck.

 

[89eddie89]

well im lookin at rough country 4" with either bfg mud or pro comp mud 35s

i just dont have money for 6" since you have to replace driveshafts and brakelines and all that..

 

[Broncobill78]

Eddie89,

While I understand just *what* you have to say, it doesn't change facts. You can get away with a 4" lift & 35"/36" tires on a solid axle 78/79 but it just won't fly with an 80+ truck. There it is, plain & simple. Best thing you can do with the TwinTractionBeam fords is knock 2"-3" off what you can do with a lift kit. You can run 35's with 4" on a 73-79 F-truck/78-79 Bronco but to run that same tire on an 80+ Bronco you'll need at least 2+ inches. You just can't run 35's without 6" of lift & that's the way it is. 4" is about the best you can do without getting into longer brake lines & custom driveshafts but 4" will only get you to 33" on an 80+ machine.You can always pick up a couple inches with a body lift (which is I suppose why they make them) but don't forget you're going to have a TON of brackets to fab & buy to make a body-lift work but I guess if we wanted something Easy or Generic we'd be driving Blazers

well im lookin at rough country 4" with either bfg mud or pro comp mud 35si just dont have money for 6" since you have to replace driveshafts and brakelines and all that..

 

[89eddie89]

i was talkin to a guy at 4 wheel parts and he said i may not need to extend my driveshaft?? he mentioned something about spacers...

any tips or help????

 

[bidibronco]

I've heard that with a 6" you don't need new drive shafts. Just be cautious of how far you let your rear axle drop but I've even heard at full drop nothing happend? Research a bit, I believe someone here may have some experiance with the driveline thing...

 

[Broncobill78]

I don't know that I'd trust or want a driveshaft spacer, kinda like putting lift-blocks on the front end where it'll work but you really don't want to do it. Now years & years ago someone (sorry, can't for the life of me remember who) used to carry a replacement pinion yoke that was extended. It was a big, heavy one-piece cast affair that would probably work ok but jeez, last time I tore up a yoke it cost me $85 from Ford (couldn't find one in the junkyards that fit my larger U-joint ends) and I'm guessing that a low-volume piece like an extended yoke would run $150 or better and that's more than it would cost to mod the driveshaft.

6" is right there on the edge. a 4" lift leaves enough spline in the slip-yoke to not cause any problems even when screwing around, getting airborn & having the axle drop. 6" on the other hand doesn't leave so much of the splined shaft in there. Day to day driving is generally ok but once you start goofing around you can expect it to fail, at some point you *will* extend the driveshaft too far and the slip-yoke will just seperate.

Not knowing what you have, you *might* get away with using a double-cardigan joint up at the Xfer case to gain an extra inch or two in overall length and that may give you enough of a margin to let it live for awhile but unless you're a very docile driver I think you'll probably lose the shaft. I've also seen double-cardigans run on both ends for better angles & it had the added advantage of acting as a spacer at both ends allowing a factory shaft to work. 6" is really the threshold size for lifts. Anything less than 6" and you can usually get away with just the lift and not too much else but once you go 6" and above then you enter the land of the drop brackets & extended driveshafts. I've never looked into it myself but it just might be cheaper to find an F-150 rear shaft & have it shortened rather than lengthening your existing shaft & it's surely cheaper than fabbing a custom length shaft from scratch.

i was talkin to a guy at 4 wheel parts and he said i may not need to extend my driveshaft?? he mentioned something about spacers...any tips or help????

 

[craiganblank1]

I can tell you 4 in will not run pro comp 35's. I have 4 in on the front of my centurion and I have 33's and i''ve got about an inch at the most of clearance on the turns. Pro comps are awesome tires though.

 

[Justshootme84]

You normally do not need to extend the driveshafts with a 6" suspension lift on the 80-96 Bronco. I have not seen near enough flex/travel out of the typical kits to over-extend the slipshafts (except the kit from AutoFab). In any event, though, you need to cycle the suspension fully after installing the lift to make sure it will not happen. IF you get really close, you can use limiting straps or have the ds extended up to 2" in length. If you make it too long, it will jam up and damage your t-case or differential. A 6" susp lift kit is usually $25-$50 more than the same 4" kit, but would work alot better with extended radius arms. So you're looking at $950-$1100 for a good, driveable 6" kit vs the basic $450 4" kit. Lastly, a 4" suspension lift and 33" tires is the best combo for street and offroad, in my opinion (IMO). But most folks you talk to with a 4" kit wish they had gone to 6" to start with to get more room or flex or both. I went with the 6" kit right away on the 84 Bronco, with 35" tires, and that's about as tall as I'd go without having to use some kind of ***** steps to get in (I'm an old man, OK>!) I have about 5" lift with my SAS on 36" tires which is about the same height. JSM84