1996 Bronco tailgate window not working AND can’t open tailgate

[Tbeck]

Geez! This has me puzzled. I’m guessing the window electrical quit but window isn’t all the way down to trip whatever safety switch is in there. Anyone have a hack or idea? I have the inside panels off, and have loosened the 3 latch mounting bolts to wiggle things but no dice yet. Thanks in advance! Tom

 

[Tiha]

If you have the panel off, at the center, there is a rod hanging down. Imagine if you will, this rod gets pushed down farther when the window is completely open.
The rod is hanging from the handle, so it is straight down from the handle.

If the glass is clear of the top, you can pull down on that rod and the latch should open the tailgate.

Otherwise there is two horizontal rods attached to the handle that go out to the latches. If you pull hard enough they will open the latches, again only if the window is down far enough to clear the top.
Maybe I am remembering wrong but I think they are accessible and on the panel side of the glass.

at which point with the gate open you can do electrical troubleshooting and find out why the motor stopped.

 

[Tbeck]

After application of your advice, skin a couple knuckles and use of strong language I got it! As this isn't the first time it has given me fits (but never quite like this) I think new motor and any switches in tailgate are in order! Thanks much!

 

[miesk5]

Yo T,
Tailgate Motor Wiring '92-95 (other years similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

. .

All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring screwed to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:

RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point.

To eliminate/bypass the dash switch, unplug it & install 2 jumpers as described in the "neutral position" within the diagram. If that text isn't legible, click the pic to supersize it. The following diagram shows how to semipermanently bypass either switch, as well as some other modifications.



To add a simple self-diagnostic capability, wire a 12V lamp (incandescent - NOT LED) across the safety switch terminals, and mount it in the tailgate shell above the lock cylinder in the inside sill (through a carpet retainer hole if present). If either control switch is activated, and the only thing preventing the glass from moving is the safety switch, the lamp will light and be visible to a person using either switch.
.

For C418, see:


C429 is WPT-484
C418 is WPT-386(427)/171(756)
C274 is WPT-653
'78-91 use a 3-blade connector (WPT-601/706) for the motor wiring behind the L taillight