1990 bronco xlt 5.8 no crank no start

[89broncodude]

Hey, been wrestling with an issue on this beast for a month whenever i have the time...

It quit on me at a gas station a while back. It will not start. I turn the key, the power comes on but i get no crank!

Sypmtoms i had before-

-upon acceleration the battery light on dash would flicker

-if i held the window up button for more than 1 second or 2 the cd deck would reset.

-lack of power, but im pretty sure this is an unrelated issue related to fuel delivery

What i have done so far-

- new solenoid on fender wall(i did notice that it dosent seem to sit flush against the wall leaving a gap and it should be noted that there are 6 total wires on the battery + side of solenoid)

-i pulled the starter and autozone tested it, said it was good. Saw the little gear thing pop out and everything

- i cleaned all connections related to battery and starter(including terminals and block ground)

-i changed out the ignition switch(verified its turning switch when i turn key)

Im not sure where to go from here....maybe i could cut a small thin piece of steel to wedge between the solenoid and the wall to make sure its grounding? Im clueless at this point. Only other thing i can think of is the ignition module on the distributor or a wiring issue 

Anyone have any troubleshooting advice or guides on a no crank situation? 

 

[dnlcarver]

If the engine is not cranking it’s not going to have anything to do with the distributor. It’s ether going to be the starter or something electrical going to the starter. Get a cheap multimeter, put it on DC V and make sure your are getting 12V to the starter. If you are it could be the starter doesn’t have the power to kick it over. If not just keep moving up the system till you have tested everything. 

 

[miesk5]

Yo dude, LTNS!

STARTER RELAY GROUND; Check for continuity between relay mounting bracket and clean chassis ground. Rust, grime, paint etc interferes with relay control circuit. 

Here is the 1989 EVTM, Emissions & Pre-Delivery Manuals, Partial via mrnewland1 in Google Drive @ https://drive.google.com/drive/mobil...?usp=drive_webSlow scrolling. Find page # of item desired in contents, then flip screen flip down like spinning a bearing (a no-no) then stopping periodically to see which page you're on. Download it for faster scrolling and to use the table of contents.

See no crank TROUBLESHOOTING procedure with wiring diagram below.Battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts at rest with engine off and all lights and accessories off.Inspect the terminals for loose or corroded connections.Are battery connections including grounds to frame, intake manifold etc., clean and tight?  by El Kabong @ "Cheesy clamp on end. Do not use for a long term repair. Only to get you home when nothing else is available. If you have one of these, suspect it before anything else" El Kabong @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...lies-faqs.htmlPull red/light blue wire push-on connector off of the inner fender starter relay. Relay pic in an 89 5.8 by Handy_andy_cv64 (Ed B) at With key in start position, should have batty voltage at red/light blue wire. If not, check for voltage at re/light blue wire on Neutral Safety Switch (also referred to as Back-Up Switch), then at ignition switch. No voltage there in the "start" mode and you have a problem in the wiring, ignition switch, or neutral safety switch. With a large screwdriver, jump the two large studs on the starter relay to see if starter cranks over.When you turn the key to "RUN/START" and there's no spring resistance feeling it usually because the actuator inside steering column is broken or ignition switch is loose.Overview; "...The ignition rod is attached the upper ignition actuator by a 3/32 x 38 roll pin ($0.12 each) and the rod needs to be straight so it travels enough to trigger the igniton switch but it's a chore to take it off as you need to remove the steering wheel and tear it down to the (Tilt or Non-Tilt) knuckle, usually down when you replace a broken upper ignition actuator. The ignition switch located on the lower part of the steering column has slots so it can be adjusted by loosening the 2 -7/16 nuts and move it up or down but a lot depends on what's wrong up top with some of the other parts, ie: ignition rod, key cylinder, lower igniton actuator and upper igniton actuator. These parts are timed so when you turn the key to RUN they all need to move forward/downward so the rod triggers the igniton switch to START the BKO..."Accessories that fail to operate with the key in RUN, or that remain on when the key is turned off, may be the result of a misadjusted ignition switch rather than a malfunctioning ignition switch. Test the ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition system should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinderbinding ignition switch lock cylindershroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinderburrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinderinsufficient **** on actuatorbinding ignition switchThe ignition switch can be adjusted by loosening the mounting screws, and sliding.A clunk while jumping the starter relay'(on the inner passenger fender liner) two large posts indicates bad starter relay contacts, bad wiring to starter, bad starter, corroded connections or a frozen engine.