Electricial Issues' on 1986 But... Help

[routerguy99]

I have 1986 Bronco, Eddie Bauer Edition; I think it was built in 1985, I cant get the stupid thing to charge the battery, The wiring on the Bronco are more like the 1985's, But mine is a 1986!

The Alternator is a 2g. I can't upgrade for awhile money issues.

I have Replaced the ground wire along with the positive. On the Ground wire I sanded the Frame, It connected there with on connection then on the the motor.

Positive cable was really easy;

Tested (Ohm Meter) the Cables;

Replace Alternator with internal Regulator..

I notice the bad plug on the Alternator, The one with 2 black wire running into on ********* one. So I replace the bad plugged.

Volt tested the Alternator Tested good. 14.7v

Plugged 2 plugs in. Tested Volts nothing. After reading there has to be a short somewhere.. Pulled Diagrams ..

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/09008...irInfoPages.htm

My Wire's look more like the 1985 Diagrams' :huh:

It makes more seance to me to rewire the alternator/Regulator as shown on 1986. Because the problem with the 1985 full circuit. If a light bulb or ammeter/voltmeter is broken then the whole system will not charge.. the 1986 has the wire's go right to the battery to produce the charge instead of running through out the whole system..

Any thoughts

 

[Seabronc]

That is the absolutely worst diagram I have seen in a while. All systems are basically the same and they never go through the wiring system in order to charge the battery. In older systems there is a common location like the battery side of the start relay where voltage is distributed via fusible links. If you have voltage at the charge post of the alternator and not at the battery side of the start relay, most likely the fusible link to the alternator is bad.

Attached are the diagrams for a 2G system.

Good luck,

>-

 

[routerguy99]

Ok Thank for the Diagram, I went with it, I took out my test light, and tested the wires on each side of the Fusible link, They all passed.. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

I am still have a problem, On my dash I do-not have a Charge light.. I only have a meter Charge to discharge. I dont get a charge from the alternator I took it off and had NAPA check it out, it passed they also check the regulator part.. But I am not getting a charge to the battery,, I Dont think something in the key switch is not telling the alternator/Regulator to start charging, I dont know if its in the ignition or something else.. If I would run a wire to the alternator from my fuse box when i turn on the switch what wire should I go to on alternator ?

Thanks

Chris

 

[Yardape]

One quick way to tell if it charging is when running unhook the positive cable, if stays running then your charging.

 

[routerguy99]

One quick way to tell if it charging is when running unhook the positive cable, if stays running then your charging.

It Die's

I think there is something in my dash or ignition thats telling it not to charge, If I can by pass this I would. I dont know how

 

[BroncoJoe19]

It Die's
I think there is something in my dash or ignition thats telling it not to charge, If I can by pass this I would. I dont know how

There is no such animal. You may get confused if you read info from other forums. In much newer cars the PCM controls the charging rate.

Check your grounds. I it is my understanding that is how the energy from the alternator gets back to the battery.

SeaBronc and Shift1313 gave me a little lesson in checking grounds.

I'm not 100% positive that this is 100% accurate, so I would like feedback from them and /or others on the accuracy of this post.

How to Check a ground

Turn the power to the circuit on, and using a digital volt meter, put one lead to the grounded wire, and the other to a good ground. If there is voltage, clean your ground.

Turn power to the circuit off, and use a self powered test light, or an ohm meter, and test the grounded wire to a good ground. IF the light goes on, or there is continuity on the ohm meter, then the ground is probably good. (There may still be ressistance in the connection, if significant one will see it in the ohm meter, or the light may not shine brightly.) Using a DVM is a better method!

good ground.

The best ground is the battery neg terminal. There may be some resistance in the battery connector, and wire(s) that then connect to the engine block, body frame, and interframe connections. To locate a good ground, one should use a DVM digital volt meter, and put one probe to the bat neg terminal, and the other to a ground. Ideally there will be no voltage recorded (unless there is an open) a few millivolts are acceptable. If one finds voltage, one must locate any poor connections between that ground and the neg terminal of the bat, and clean it.

 

[routerguy99]

Ok, I took it in to a place the rebuilds Old cars, they said my wire diagram was off. They went by a 1991 wire diagram to get everything right..

 

[92bronco_in_progress]

Ok, I took it in to a place the rebuilds Old cars, they said my wire diagram was off. They went by a 1991 wire diagram to get everything right..

thats a little wierd