JCW Parts for lift

[bryan thomas]

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum and hope to get some help.

Here's my situation. Hope it's not to repetitive. I looked up as many things I could on the internet and haven't had to much luck. I even called a guy up the road that specializes in lifts and wheel hub changes and he wouldn't return my calls.

I have a stock 1995 FS XLT 302. My four wheel drive won't seem to engage. I have auto hubs that came stock with it and recently took it out on the beach and got stuck fast. They worked when I bought it but now they won't. Is had my friend stand and watch my fronts as I floored it on the sand and sure enough in 4L and 4H they didn't even spin what are the possibilities of things that could be wrong or is it just a problem that they are worn out and need replaced with new Warn Manuals?

I'm looking in the JCW mag this month and am thinking up lifting my truck slightly to accomadate larger tires. I was thinking I'd like to go with a Super Swamper that comes in a size 33x14.50r15 or r16 can't remember off the top of my head. So would the longer springs 2 inch springs they have part no BAR944169F combined with a 2 inch rear block and 6 new longer shocks from Rancho RS9000X (9 position adjustable, capable of being used on trucks with up to 4" of lift) work? I have the dual shocks up front. I know the wheel size is important too. I was definitely considering the MT Classic Locks in a 15x12 or 15x10 dependent on whether or not they wheel width would effect the two inch lift. I've heard it can.

Lastly I had bought this truck and am the second owner. The paint is not original and was told by a guy it is possibly a Jewel Blue off of a early mustang color. It's a blue that turns purple in color when the sun hits it as you look down the body or from above. Metallic flake is normal, nothing crazy. Just the color. The hood is starting to peel and I've had a couple decent scratches from off roading in the marshlands. If anyone knew that color I'd like to get some repainting done too.

Any help on the above would be greatly appreciated. Email is [email protected]

Bryan

1995 FS XLT

JBL everything

stock for now

just sold 1987 FS XL

33x12.50 on 15x10 Eagle's

JBL everything

 

[Seabronc]

They may actually still work. The problem with auto hubs is that they will not engage if the truck is not moving forward. Read the instructions on the back of your driver side sun visor. The truck needs to move approximately 10 feet forward to engage them so if you are already stuck, they will not engage. Yes, manual hubs are a better deal except you have to get out of the truck to engage them, for most of us that is not a problem.

Just my personal openion of JCW born out of experiences with their stuff, I wouldn't buy anything from them.

Good luck,

>-

 

[bryan thomas]

Thanks SeaBronc. The thing is too now that I'm recalling when I went into a mud pit and made it out the other side almost... I had bogged down and looked out the window at my fronts and they were not spinning at all. Like they never did engage. I also didn't take the truck out of 4L either the whole time. So with this added information would you say they are totally worn out? Or is there another problem that lies somewhere in there? Also with manual lock outs they would be locked in all the time correct and not have to roll forward ten feet? Thanks again.

 

[c0brajet351Sr]

Auto lockers on B2s **** also. With manual locker you are locked as soon as you lock them and stay that way till you unlock.

 

[Justshootme84]

I would make sure the front driveshaft is turning when in 4WD, that would eliminate any problems with the transfer case. IF your 95 has the electric shift, those can be problematic. There are several links in the tech forum on troubleshooting. I've also seen the grease get hard from neglect in those auto hubs, and cause them to fail. IF you're going through the trouble to remove them and check, I would go ahead and replace with the Warn manuals. The autos have a tendency to fail without warning, and you can leave the manulas locked when going in and out of 4WD offroad. S far as the leveling coils for the front, I would carefully research those. There are some other threads in the forums on problems with alignment. And from the pics, it looks like the dark blue Ford metallic on your Bronco. You can check the paint code, or check with a body shop. I have PPG Ford metallic urethane medium blue on my 84 Bronco, with the Indigo blue metallic on my Shaker hood. The PPG has wuite a bit more flake than the factory paint, and is quite brilliant in direct sunlight. JSM84

 

[bryan thomas]

JSM I have a floor shifter and not push button, what else could it be then? I would assume it would just narrow it down to the hubs then right being the shifter makes it manual switch and not electrically? Or am I wrong. I'm a carpenter and not a mechanic. I want to spend more time figuring it out here than paying a mechanic more. You know what I mean? I feel it engage and it shifts fine into the gears both 2w and 4w. Thanks

 

[Justshootme84]

I would still try to determine if the front driveshaft turns in 4WD. IF it doesn't, then the problem is in the t-case. If it does turn, check that the axles on each side turn as well. IF they don't, the problem is in the front differential. Either broken gears or a snapped axle shaft. Just drive really slow while your friend watches from the side. And yes, you do need to move froward 5-10 feet to fully engage the auto hubs once the t-case is put in 4WD. When you shift back to 2WD, you need to back up about 10 feet to disengage the hubs (if they're working).

 

[swampthing]

as justshootme stated. check the front shaft be sure it is turning when locked in 4wd...if thats the case it more then liekly is in your hubs and changing them to manual would be your best bet but i on the other hand would recommend milemarker hubs...had many problems with warn but to each his own

 

[michibronc]

as justshootme stated. check the front shaft be sure it is turning when locked in 4wd...if thats the case it more then liekly is in your hubs and changing them to manual would be your best bet but i on the other hand would recommend milemarker hubs...had many problems with warn but to each his own

Hey guys,

How hard to switch auto hubs over to manual in a 96 with the manual 4wd on the floor? Any specialized tools necessary? I've heard it's simple, but then again I'm not a mechanic by trade either.

 

[Justshootme84]

The manual hub swap is fairly simple, using allen wrenches and a couple of small screwdrivers or picks to remove the lock rings. Check out the Tech Articles forum or Miesk5's Homepage, JSM84

 

[ogre20012001]

THE PROBLEM IS PROBABLY IN THE HUBS AUTO LOCKING HUBS ARE A LIGHT DUTY HUB AND VERRY EASY TO BLOW OUT I HAVE HAD THEM ON 3 TRUCKS AND EVERY TIME I GOT IN LOOSE STUFF AND STARTED SPINING WHEELS I WOULD BLOW ONE ORE BOTH OUT THE BEST THING YOU CAN DO IS GET RID OF THEM AND PUT A GOOD SET OF WARN OR SUPERWINCH HUBS IN THEIR PLACE THAT IS THE BEST ADVICE I CAN GIVE YOU

 

[BroncoJeff]

Auto Hubs go out all the time, the most dependable are the manual lockers. also you have to put the truck into reverse before engaging into 4WD.

 

[bidibronco]

As everyone else has stated, the truck HAS to move 10 or so feet before the hubs will engage. I was thinking the same thing with my 94 with auto hubs and manual t-case. I had no friends around here that understood the "look and see if the driveshaft spins" so what I did was just put it in 4hi on assfault (not exactally recomended but desperate times means desperate mesures) and go around a corner. Make sure that you drive a little before you turn a corner to make sure they have spun enough to engage. If, when you turn the corner, it's difficult, then your hubs are engaging rite. You'll feel a huge difference in the way it turns on assfault when in 4wd. I have to agree on the JCW stuff too, never heard anything mechanically good come from them. They do have neat cosmetic stuff though. Just my $.02

 

[bryan thomas]

Hey checked it today and my shaft is spinning as with the axles.

Warn hubs and the conversion kit $165.

Girlfriends dad being a mechanic.

Priceless.

 

[Justshootme84]

I bought the Warn Premium hubs off of ebay for $90 shipped, so you might check more than one source. IF you have the 3-***** hubs, you will need the conversion kit that does cost a bit more. Good luck,JSM84