My "new" 1970 won't start

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Mobious

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Hey, everyone. New to the site. Yesterday I bought my first Bronco, a 1970 w/ a 5.0L Mustang V8, 3-speed manual, Jet carb, magniflow exhaust, Detroit lockers, 3.5 lift and 2.5 body kit, and 35" BFG pro comps. Very excited, as I have wanted a EB for a long time and have been looking around SoCal recently. I am stoked with the one I found.

Anyway, I picked up the truck yesterday and it started strong. Stopped for gas on the way home (thought I would practice that activity early and often) and again it started up quick. Came home, took off the top, and again restarted no prob. Probably started it 4-5 times in the first 2 hours I had it. No problem. Drove great.

After it sat in my driveway in 60 degree sunny weather for about 20 minutes I tried to start it again. Cranked well, but would not turn over. Not really very close. It smelled like it was getting gas. But I put some in the carb, but that didn't help. The spark plugs are about 2 years old. I checked the wires between the plugs, distributor, and coil. Nothing was loose. I pulled off one of the wires and held it near the block while cranking to see if I could see a spark, but the boot on the wire was too big. The battery seems strong, but I am charging it right now just to make sure. I let the truck sit for a few hours between start attempts, but that didn't help.

Just wondering if there is anything else I should try before sending her off to the mechanic. Kinda rough start to this new marriage. Thanks in advance!

Marc

 

Bully Bob

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Hi Marc, welcome...!

Do the spark-check again using a screwdriver stuffed into the boot hole.

Hold the handle & place the driver shaft near the block. Should see a spark.

Some folks (PO's) install an anti-theft switch.... RU sure you didn't bump some such thing.?

You're right.., it can only be fuel or electric (spark)

On the electric side there's the dizzy, the module, the coil, & the keyswitch.

 

Rons beast

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Hey Mob,

Welcome.

An engine needs air, fuel, spark and compression to run. We can rule out compression as a problem as you stated it ran strong prior.

Air should be no problem, unless the engine is cold and the choke is not setting. (too much air)

With the engine cold , open the throttle. The choke should close off the top of the venturi. This allows the fuel mixture to become richer for cold starting. No choke closing would make a hard or non starting cold engine. If the choke is not closing you will need to adjust it. Normally it is a matter of loosening the 3 screws around the choke spring, ( the aprox 2" round thing on the side of the carb.) and turning the plastic cover slightly until the choke just closes. Then maybe 1 more notch. ( there should be notches on the plastic cover and an index mark...or vise-versa.) Don't make the choke too tight.

Note! when the engine starts the choke should crack open about 1/8 inch. If it doesn't that's another adjustment to check on.

If the choke closes ok with the engine cold you need to check for spark and fuel......

To check for spark. Use a screwdriver in the end of a plugwire with the metal shaft close to the block. It helps to have someone crank while you hold the insulted end of the screwdriver. Got spark...you're good....no spark...problem is in ignition..more diagnostics needed.

Also check for fuel. Look down the venturi of the carb. open and close the throttle and look for fuel squirting into the venturi.

If it's there you're good.....if not you need to disconnect the fuel line and have someone crank te engine while you collect fuel in a small container. ( Use caution! DO NOT do this while having plug wire disconnected.)

Got fuel comming through the line...you're good....no fuel..diagnose a fuel delivery problem.

Hope this helps.

Good Luck and let us know what you find.

 

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