Ok my mechanic has replaced the radiator & cap, water pump, thermostat. Has also checked it multiple times for a head gasket leak but no leak. I was just going over in my head what else it could be and the only thing i can think of is the radiator hoses collapsing. The overheating is when i have the a/c on for the most part but when it is idling with the a/c on it seems fine. It is kind of random in its appearance but when I’m driving with the a/c on it seems to happen the most so i have to turn the a/c off to reduce the temp. Seems like in the winter everything is fine. Any old mechanics out there who have run across this problem and can help it would be most appreciated.
1996 5.8l Bronco Overheating
- Thread starter Bronco MC
- Start date
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Yo MC,
Welcome to our Bronco site!
Welcome to our Bronco site!
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PINPOINT TEST B: ENGINE OVERHEATS
B1 CHECK COOLANT LEVEL
- NOTE: If engine is hot, allow engine to cool down before proceeding.
- Remove radiator cap and check coolant level at radiator coolant recovery reservoir.
| Yes | No |
|---|---|
| GO to B2. | REFILL as outlined. REFER to Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleeding in the Cleaning and Inspection portion of this section. GO to Pinpoint Test A. |
B2 CHECK COOLANT CONDITION
- Check coolant for contaminants such as rust or corrosion. Also, check for color discoloration.
| Yes | No |
|---|---|
| GO to B3. | FLUSH system. REFER to Cooling System Flush Procedure in the Cleaning and Inspection portion of this section. RETEST system. |
B3 CHECK FOR AIRFLOW OBSTRUCTION
- Visually inspect A/C condenser core and radiator for obstructions, such as leaves or bugs.
| Yes | No |
|---|---|
| REMOVE obstruction and CLEAN A/C condenser core and radiator in the Cleaning and Inspection portion of this section. RETEST system. | GO to B4. |
B4 CHECK WATER THERMOSTAT OPERATION
- Allow engine to run for 10 minutes.
- Feel the inlet and outlet heater water hose and the underside of the upper radiator hose.
| Yes | No |
|---|---|
| REPLACE water thermostat. REFER to Thermostat, Water in the Removal and Installation portion of this section. RETEST system. | LEAVE engine RUNNING. GO to B5. |
B5 CHECK COOLING FAN
- Check for proper cooling fan clutch operation. Perform Fan Clutch Test. Refer to Component Tests in this section.
| Yes | No |
|---|---|
CHECK the following:
| REPLACE fan clutch. REFER to Cooling Fan Blade and Fan Clutch in the Removal and Installation portion of this section. RETEST system. |
Yo MC,
ASAP, find out if speed control recall work, if equipped was completed. If you still have concerns about Recalls, please contact the Ford Customer Relationship Center:
US: 800-392-3673 | CA: 800-565-3673
Note: 3673 spells "FORD" on phone keys
For the hearing- or speech-impaired: Please contact the Telecommunication Relay Service by dialing 71
... have VIN ready.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
To confirm current status, use this guide by jowens1126 @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that the 93 recall is different than the 94-96 recall.
Here's the 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual partial
96 Bronco Owner's Guide, Maintenance Schedules & Parts and Accessories by Ford @ https://www.ford.com/support/vehicle/bronco/1996/owner-manuals/
96 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ https://www.ford.com/cmslibs/conten...sovers/bronco
96 Bronco Quick Tips Brochure Excerpts & some Eddie Bauer options by Steve83 @ 1983 Ford Bronco 96 EB Bronco Brochures pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
96 Chassis & Engine Service Manuals @ 1996 Ford Truck Service Manuals - Google Drive
In pop-up, Click "Drive"
●Due to an overnight Google Drive issue this 1996 Ford Truck POWERTRAIN-DRIVETRAIN.pdf (182M) is too large for Google to scan for viruses. They ask, "Would you still like to download this file?" Unfortunately, after I tried, Google asks: Would you still like to download this file? I agreed, however no download can occurr.
Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf via BroncMom!
See my mostly recovered site by schwim @ Ford Bronco And F-150 Links - FORD BRONCO It contains boo-koo component repairs, installation & parts sources.
ASAP, find out if speed control recall work, if equipped was completed. If you still have concerns about Recalls, please contact the Ford Customer Relationship Center:
US: 800-392-3673 | CA: 800-565-3673
Note: 3673 spells "FORD" on phone keys
For the hearing- or speech-impaired: Please contact the Telecommunication Relay Service by dialing 71
... have VIN ready.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
To confirm current status, use this guide by jowens1126 @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that the 93 recall is different than the 94-96 recall.
Here's the 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual partial
96 Bronco Owner's Guide, Maintenance Schedules & Parts and Accessories by Ford @ https://www.ford.com/support/vehicle/bronco/1996/owner-manuals/
96 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ https://www.ford.com/cmslibs/conten...sovers/bronco
96 Bronco Quick Tips Brochure Excerpts & some Eddie Bauer options by Steve83 @ 1983 Ford Bronco 96 EB Bronco Brochures pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
96 Chassis & Engine Service Manuals @ 1996 Ford Truck Service Manuals - Google Drive
In pop-up, Click "Drive"
●Due to an overnight Google Drive issue this 1996 Ford Truck POWERTRAIN-DRIVETRAIN.pdf (182M) is too large for Google to scan for viruses. They ask, "Would you still like to download this file?" Unfortunately, after I tried, Google asks: Would you still like to download this file? I agreed, however no download can occurr.
Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf via BroncMom!
See my mostly recovered site by schwim @ Ford Bronco And F-150 Links - FORD BRONCO It contains boo-koo component repairs, installation & parts sources.
What indications do you have that it is overheating? Does it boil over blowing a bunch of coolant out?
Or is it just a indication you are getting on the temp gauge?
Meaning, maybe an infrared temp gun can verify that it is actually getting that hot.
Sounds like you did all the basics. Was it getting hot before you had all the work done? And is it better at all?
Over the years I have seen water pumps cast wrong. Timing chains installed too far advanced making them run hot.
You didn't mention the fan clutch. Then also check for the lower hose getting sucked flat.
Is it possible the serpentine belt can be on wrong? Running the pump backwards? (just thinking outside the box)
Did you buy the truck with this problem? Or you have owned it and it happened to keep getting worse over time?
Or is it just a indication you are getting on the temp gauge?
Meaning, maybe an infrared temp gun can verify that it is actually getting that hot.
Sounds like you did all the basics. Was it getting hot before you had all the work done? And is it better at all?
Over the years I have seen water pumps cast wrong. Timing chains installed too far advanced making them run hot.
You didn't mention the fan clutch. Then also check for the lower hose getting sucked flat.
Is it possible the serpentine belt can be on wrong? Running the pump backwards? (just thinking outside the box)
Did you buy the truck with this problem? Or you have owned it and it happened to keep getting worse over time?
Old&Cranky
New member
Did you consider that it could be wrong heat rated thermostat for that engine?
paul rondelli
Active member
How is your plastic fan shroud?
unless you run electric fans ... that shroud is super important.
I took mine off last fall .... drove around all winter without it... never even got close to hot.
As soon as the temperature started to get in the 90's ..... she would get hot as soon as I turned on the AC. With the shroud back on ... she doesn't get hot ... no matter what the temp is ... or if I am running the AC.
unless you run electric fans ... that shroud is super important.
I took mine off last fall .... drove around all winter without it... never even got close to hot.
As soon as the temperature started to get in the 90's ..... she would get hot as soon as I turned on the AC. With the shroud back on ... she doesn't get hot ... no matter what the temp is ... or if I am running the AC.
Motech
Well-known member
How high is your temp gauge rising?
And is it actually boiling over?
I ask because I've seen many gauges lose their calibration, mostly giving optimistic values (higher than actual)
To find out, see if you can borrow a laser thermometer. Oftentimes O'Reilly's or advanced auto parts stores have them on loan. Then you can measure the temperature right at the base of your engine coolant temp sensor at the front of the engine and see if it really is getting hot or if it's just your gauge.
If it turns out it is your gauge reading high, you can readjust it in your cluster. Just pull the cluster out and access the back of the gauge and you'll find a recessed adjustment lever that you can push one way or the other to change the calibration. Just fiddle with it while monitoring that temp with the lasers thermometer until you get it to where you feel it should be in matching with actual temp.
And is it actually boiling over?
I ask because I've seen many gauges lose their calibration, mostly giving optimistic values (higher than actual)
To find out, see if you can borrow a laser thermometer. Oftentimes O'Reilly's or advanced auto parts stores have them on loan. Then you can measure the temperature right at the base of your engine coolant temp sensor at the front of the engine and see if it really is getting hot or if it's just your gauge.
If it turns out it is your gauge reading high, you can readjust it in your cluster. Just pull the cluster out and access the back of the gauge and you'll find a recessed adjustment lever that you can push one way or the other to change the calibration. Just fiddle with it while monitoring that temp with the lasers thermometer until you get it to where you feel it should be in matching with actual temp.
The temps are all over the place at running temps, sometimes they are low, sometimes high. Seems like when it is idling it does well. Again most everything has been replaced except the Temperature switch and the bottom hose.
Fan shroud is in tacked and new fan cluch installed. It seems i am just throwing parts at it but it is a old truck and i do want it to be mechanically good. I suppose i could switch to an electric fan but would rather keep it as original as possible.
I had 195 thermostat on it and the mechanic has gotten so annoyed he put a 165 on. I do live in AZ and it is hot as ****. I figured it might be a clogged a/c condenser as its right in front of the radiator but it still overheats
Also it is not boiling over and it usually sits below mid point. When it is over hot it is at the end of the l on Normal. The mechanic did look at the temperature with a monitor and he said it looked fine at 195-210 but that is idling and when the temps tend to be fine.
Yes the mechanic changed it to a 165? It was a 195
Thx for the great guide. I went out and checked the radiator and it was full as usual but i did put a funnel on it that helps burp the air out but it produced very little. As i went down the list it had collapsed lower hose. Since it most happens at running speeds this could be what is happening. Also about 8 years ago the hoses that run near the water pump were replaced because they were leaking. When i first got it i dont recall it overheating. But it overheats in the summer only. I was seriously thinking of getting an aftermarket temp guage that shows the actual temp and not just a range.
You should get a second gauge, wire it in and just lay it on the dash or floor for now. glowshift is like $25 with send off ebay.
Sounds like that is the only way you will know for sure at this point since it is fine at idle. You need a second way to monitor it while driving. The extra temp gauge should do that.
Sounds like that is the only way you will know for sure at this point since it is fine at idle. You need a second way to monitor it while driving. The extra temp gauge should do that.
Motech
Well-known member
With that type of activity, it doesn't really sound like it's getting hot. It wouldn't go extremely up and down like that, and I think you need to know for sure.
Klein is a respected brand, and $32.99 is a very good price on this laser thermometer at Home Depot.
Definitely a great idea thx for the recommendation
L\Bronco
Well-known member
Hey @BroncoMC,
Welcome to the zone.
I’m a little late to the party, and it looks like most everything has been addressed.
All I can add is to Make sure there is a spring inside the lower rad hose to prevent it from collapsing, (as you feared) the waterpump volume gets really high at high RPM and the slight restriction at the thermostat can cause the lower hose to collapse and stop the flow. ( shouldnt be affected by A/C operation though, except for a bit of extra heat into the rad from the condenser.)
That being said, there should still be a large spring inside the lower hose.
Good luck
Cheers
So i went and looked at the bottom hose and darn if it doesn’t have a spring. Also it looks a bit long making it kind of bend a bit more than it should. I am going to purchase a manufacturer lower hose and have it put in. Fingers crossed but i think this is a very good possibility for the increased temps.
Whipsaw
New member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2016
- Messages
- 26
- Reaction score
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From the 'For What It's Worth' Department - sounds like the lower hose... at any rate, always use distilled water when mixing 50% with coolant. I've read that when mixing with hard water (high mineral content tap water) it can combine with the coolant and form a cement like substance on the water jackets inside the engine block and severely reduce heat transfer, causing the engine to run hot. I just put new hoses on my '93 and didn't check for the spring. Doh! 
96XLT
New member
Welcome fellow Bronco owner.
As L\Bronco and Whipsaw mentioned, if the flow is blocked by a collapsing lower hose, it could cause the issue. I would think a magnetic camera mount (GoPro style) would help with watching the hose while driving.
If that isn't the issue, from all of the information you provided I would lean towards air in the system. It seems to be the most erratic in the symptoms and occurs more often when driving. It also usually includes a water sloshing sound in the heater core. Putting in a bleeder or cap on the highest heater hose tends to be the best for the Bronco from my experience to get the air out.
When in doubt with the gauges, installing a mechanical gauge/sensor is the best way to see the true reading. I have had sensors and gauges fail on my Bronco over the years.
Good luck!
As L\Bronco and Whipsaw mentioned, if the flow is blocked by a collapsing lower hose, it could cause the issue. I would think a magnetic camera mount (GoPro style) would help with watching the hose while driving.
If that isn't the issue, from all of the information you provided I would lean towards air in the system. It seems to be the most erratic in the symptoms and occurs more often when driving. It also usually includes a water sloshing sound in the heater core. Putting in a bleeder or cap on the highest heater hose tends to be the best for the Bronco from my experience to get the air out.
When in doubt with the gauges, installing a mechanical gauge/sensor is the best way to see the true reading. I have had sensors and gauges fail on my Bronco over the years.
Good luck!
