1996 302 efi potential power?

[Delandro]

I bought a 96 bronco xl with the 302/E40D a few months ago and started fixing it up with my dad. It’s got 140k miles on it right now, and I'm planning for the future. I’m on a low budget.

Questions:
-Can I get this thing up to the 300-350 horsepower range relatively cheap/easy?

-Will the transmission it has right now be able to handle that much power? I read somewhere that the e40d is a tough transmission but thrives on the lower end of the hp spectrum

Any help is appreciated, thanks

 

[Tiha]

Don't know about the engine hp capabilities, but the E4OD is a pretty well built transmission. It should hold that as is.

But the weak parts are the hard parts. The gas transmissions used aluminum planetary gears.

Keep it running through a good cooler, keep good oil in it and it should hold.

When your power level gets too high put the Diesel hard parts in it.

 

[Delandro]

Don't know about the engine hp capabilities, but the E4OD is a pretty well built transmission. It should hold that as is.

But the weak parts are the hard parts. The gas transmissions used aluminum planetary gears.

Keep it running through a good cooler, keep good oil in it and it should hold.

When your power level gets too high put the Diesel hard parts in it.

Are you saying that the diesels came with the e40d as well, but with better internals?

The tranny has been doing fine so far, I’ve just noticed that there’s a clunking when I apply gas. That may be because the current motor mounts are going out.

When I was trying to fix a stalling problem a while ago I tried putting a identical f150 4x4 ECM in it and the shift points were off, so it revved up high a lot and the transmission spilled a ton of fluid after I got home from a 10 mile trip. I ended up doing a drain/refill of trans fluid. The old fluid wasn’t burnt and there weren’t and metal shavings in the pan.
I switched back to the original ECM and everything was fine again.

 

[Tiha]

Shooting fluid out is usually a sign of overheating. Don't do that again. LOL

Yes the gas engine E4OD transmissions had some weaker parts in them. The diesel got the heavier duty parts. Otherwise they are the same transmission.

I did one for a gas engine a few years back, bought a Diesel E4OD core just to get the heavy duty hard parts. Cheaper than buying new and a gas engine will never hurt them. Not enough torque.

Clunk, Could it be rear end? Or u-joint? Auto transmissions usually don't clunk.

 

[Delandro]

The clunking only really happens from 0-10 mph when I apply gas.

It might be a U-Joint. What’s the best way to check? I had to replace the drivers side front when I rebuilt the front end.

When I changed the rear diff fluid everything looked to be in good shape.

Could bad motor mounts cause it? I believe the current ones are nearing the end of their lifetime.

 

[Tiha]

Bad motor mounts can certainly cause a clunk as well.

I usually put the vehicle in neutral. So chock the wheels so it can't roll.

Then crawl underneath and rotate the driveshaft as far back and forth as much you can by hand. From stop to stop.

Rotate it hard and fast. See if you can duplicate the noise that you hear while driving.

Also push up and down on the driveshaft right at the u-joints. Watch the u-joints for movement as well as the rear pinion.

If you can hear a clunk you should be able to see the movement. Should be pretty obvious if that is where it is coming from.

To check motor mounts. Have someone start the engine. Put it in gear with their foot on the brake.

Watch the engine.

Have the person switch from drive to reverse. Maybe even add a little gas pedal. While keeping their foot firmly on the brake.

The engine should rock back and forth a little. If it looks like it is going to crawl up out of the engine compartment you have a bad motor mount.

 

[Delandro]

Ok, will check tonight

 

[Delandro]

U joints feel solid. I also tried revving the engine to look for movement and didn’t see any major movement. Not sure where the issue is

 

[Tiha]

Will it clunk sitting still? Or can you make it clunk sitting still?

Or does it have to be moving? Like 10mph before it will do it?

Or can you give us more info on when it happens?

 

[Delandro]

It most notably happens when the light turns green and I let off the brake and start rolling a little then hit the gas

 

[paul rondelli]

The 302 is great in Broncos for MPG. I have one in my 1996 and I LOVE IT!!

The biggest downside is that it makes most of it's power higher in the RPM range. Great for mustangs and lighter rides.

You can boost it .... and get her up to the higher RPM's faster ... and make those HP numbers...... but for heavy ass 4X4 's .... Torque is really what you want.

Bigger motors are Torque monsters. If you really want the Bronco to sit you back in your seat ... Go big block.

For the money you will drop Boosting your 302 you can get a stock 460 that will make you smile just as much .... and have a ton more available to upgrade and get you more.

The 1996 is ODB 2 and this allows you more options to tune the ride .... and a 400 or 460 big block will get you powa to spare.

i would look for a F250 or F350 (4x4) gas doner. That way you get the upgraded drive train for that POWA. If you stomp the gas on a boosted 302 from a dead stop .... that will be a lot of strain on the drive train components ... and something will eventually Break.

 

[Delandro]

The 302 is great in Broncos for MPG. I have one in my 1996 and I LOVE IT!!

The biggest downside is that it makes most of it's power higher in the RPM range. Great for mustangs and lighter rides.

You can boost it .... and get her up to the higher RPM's faster ... and make those HP numbers...... but for heavy ass 4X4 's .... Torque is really what you want.

Bigger motors are Torque monsters. If you really want the Bronco to sit you back in your seat ... Go big block.

For the money you will drop Boosting your 302 you can get a stock 460 that will make you smile just as much .... and have a ton more available to upgrade and get you more.

The 1996 is ODB 2 and this allows you more options to tune the ride .... and a 400 or 460 big block will get you powa to spare.

i would look for a F250 or F350 (4x4) gas doner. That way you get the upgraded drive train for that POWA. If you stomp the gas on a boosted 302 from a dead stop .... that will be a lot of strain on the drive train components ... and something will eventually Break.

MPG? I get like 9-10 with mine haha. I do like the idea of getting a big block. What year donor vehicles should I be looking at? And how much do you think a complete swap would cost?

 

[miesk5]

Yo Delandro,
Welcome to our Bronco community with your 96 5.0, w /the E40D as we have bought new.

See:



https://web.archive.org/web/2013050...ru/docs/Ford-injectors-book/Part09/Part09.pdf

 

[paul rondelli]

OOuch ...... My 302 with a 5seed... stock tires gets 15mpg

My 1993 with a 351 6 inch lift 35" tires.... re-geared to 4:56 ... and a full Detroit locker in the rear .... gets the 9 or 10

If it where me I found look for a 1996 F250 or F350 for a doner.

However if you want to make a real beast look at a 2005+ superduty. The solid front axel will bolt under a Bronco .... with some modifications.