Just bought a 96 Bronco and I am replacing the front brakes. The rotors are to thin to turn so I am replacing. My question is if I need the hub/rotor assembly or if the rotor can be separated. I believe the assembly is what I need since mine was made after 05/1995 but parts suppliers sell it either way.
Brake Rotors
- Thread starter XC/TS
- Start date
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Krafty
New member
I can't be sure about the 95 ones but I know my old 81 dana 44 front hub and rotor could be separated,once the tire hub locking mechanism and brakes were out of the way I needed to remove the hub lock nut with the dana 44 hub socket, remove the hub and rotor assembly from the spindle then after removing the Wheel studs it should separate.
it is important to follow the tq specs exactly when reinstalling the hub lock nut because over tightening will cause bearing failure, and under tightening.... well lets just not go there.
Hope this helps and good luck.
it is important to follow the tq specs exactly when reinstalling the hub lock nut because over tightening will cause bearing failure, and under tightening.... well lets just not go there.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Seabronc
New member
Welcome to the Zone > . Post some picture when you get a chance. Like Krafty said and see this link for the specs http://broncozone.com/topic/21548-94-bronco-front-brakes/page__p__112834__fromsearch__1entry112834 .
Good luck,
>-
Good luck,
>-
yo; look @ this;
Rotors, Wheel Bearings, and Warn Premium Hub (Swap) Replacement in a 95; (but his TORQUES are off a bit). miesk5 NOTE: "Word for word from Haynes Manual Ford Pickups and Bronco 1980 - 1996 Using a lockout spanner (ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent ) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.)" thanks to Chris!!!!
Source: by Trucky18 (Bco) at SuperMotors.net
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/3749/14884
-
'80-96 rotor replacement requires removing the hub assembly & driving out the lug studs. On '93-96 Broncos only, the tone ring must be removed.
On '87-early '88 with factory (******-style) manual hub locks, the hub-rotor is one piece.
REASSEMBLY!!!
1. Set the rotor onto the back of the hub.
2. Drive the lug studs through both.
3. If applicable, install the tone ring.
4. Drop the packed inner wheel bearing into its race in the back of the hub, & apply a ring of grease to its visible surface.
5. Install the appropriate inner wheel seal.
6. Flip the assembly & apply a heavy ring of grease to the area between the bearing races in the hub.
7. Slip the hub onto the spindle, keeping as much grease as possible inside.
8. Fill as much of the hub as possible with grease, up to the outer wheel bearing race.
9. Slip the packed outer bearing onto the spindle, centering the hub around it so it goes in all the way.
10. Leaving any excess grease in place, install the wheel bearing adjusting nut(s) according to the appropriate procedure.
11. Fill the area between the nut(s) & hub wall with grease, NOT to extend outboard of the nuts.
12. Install any necessary hardware & the hub locks.
Seal for 95-96; "...The spindle bearing seal is 3 pieces (1 rubber & 2 hard plastic), but it's only shown in this diagram as parts #2 & 3. http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/277564. I wouldn't be surprised if the aftermarket (old-style) part isn't identical to OE, but it's functionally identical.."
by Ford & Steve83
Spindle & Seal Part Numbers for 95-96; "...Due to a bonehead I let do the balljoints on my 96 last year, I had to replace a spindle on my 96 this year (long story... dont ask). Anyway in the process of trying to locate a new spindle, I learned some things.. First is that if your build date (located on the sticker on the drivers side door striker pillar) is AFTER 05-95 you will have a very hard time sourcing a spindle from a local place ... including the dealer. Neither carquest , napa or any other parts outlet even listed the part... Ford told me that a pre 05-95 spindle was available (at a cost of about 360.00) They told me that there were four post 5-95 build date spindles available as dealer stock.. two were at dealers in wisconsin and two in either ny or nj (dont remember which). Then the parts guy ( friend of mine) told me that they were being sold for 650.00 each because they were "no longer serviced by ford" (ford was no linger getting them from supplier) He then suggested a dana/spicer wholesaler out of Billings, Mt (fairly local to me) called Inland Truck Parts Company. I called Inland. They wanted a bill of material number from my axle (located on a sticker on the back side of the passenger side axle beam... its shown as the "dana part #"). I gave them the number and the guy told me they were still available from dana/spicer. best part was the cost.. $162.00 and change... it cost me 173.00 with three day ups. The dana part # of this spindle is 75304x. Its for 95-96 bronco-f150 w/front abs I got the part in three days , was the correct replacement and had no problems. If you are having problems finding the correct replacement spindle pm me and I can help.. ALso, these spindles come loaded with the correct spindle bearing and spindle seal. There is a seal that is only used on 95-96's ( i think) as well that is located on the axle stub shaft. It is not the metal "slinger" type piece with seal, but a one piece rubber seal that is a primary seal that is seated on the stub shaft and rides on the back side of the spindle. It is a smaller version of the forsheda seal that attaches to the otside of the spindle and rides on the inner wheel hub seal. This seal is ford part # f3tz1s175bba. Again, any questions and pm me , I will try to help cause I know these newer parts are confusing and hard to find..."
Source: by b wojo
Spindle & Seal Part Numbers for 95-96; "...Ford has replaced some of the numbers with seals that are not correct. When I did mine last year (96, not sure how closee to yours), the parts guy new his stuff and said when they crossed some numbers they didn't get it right. I went to five dealers and each had the same problem. Don't go to Pep Boys and get the seals they sell. Even though they are Chicago Rawhide, same as Napa relabel, they are not the better ones. The parts they have are a very cheap version, which may work, but I wouldn't trust. Napa had to order in the 25009, but they got it in a day. As far as seal 3, the one I got new from Ford was one piece, but the one that came out broke into the three pieces. If you get the Ford one, you will see how easy it is to snap apart. Seal 2 is actually a smaller version of seal 6, but the oneFord parts guy said that they don't have a replacement. Fortunately Napa has one. They have one part D3TZ3C132A that they try to sell. It is a metal slinger that could be pressed in place of seal 2, but it has no sealing properties, just a stamped part that looks like a washer with a lip where it slides over the axle. Item 2 is Ford F3TZ1S175BBA Item 3 is FOrd F3TZ1SZ175AA Item 6 is NAPA NOS25009 http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...+-+Front+Wheel Item 7 is Napa NOS23276..."
Source: by Tony R (TonyR)
Spindle Differences 94-95; "...In addition to the ~'92 loss of a spindle stud (leaving 5) and the addition of 2 notches in the spindle ****** for the 4WABS sensor used on '93-96 Broncos only, the spindle was also redesigned in ~'95..."
Source: by Steve83
Rotors, Wheel Bearings, and Warn Premium Hub (Swap) Replacement in a 95; (but his TORQUES are off a bit). miesk5 NOTE: "Word for word from Haynes Manual Ford Pickups and Bronco 1980 - 1996 Using a lockout spanner (ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent ) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.)" thanks to Chris!!!!
Source: by Trucky18 (Bco) at SuperMotors.net
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/3749/14884
-
'80-96 rotor replacement requires removing the hub assembly & driving out the lug studs. On '93-96 Broncos only, the tone ring must be removed.
On '87-early '88 with factory (******-style) manual hub locks, the hub-rotor is one piece.
REASSEMBLY!!!
1. Set the rotor onto the back of the hub.
2. Drive the lug studs through both.
3. If applicable, install the tone ring.
4. Drop the packed inner wheel bearing into its race in the back of the hub, & apply a ring of grease to its visible surface.
5. Install the appropriate inner wheel seal.
6. Flip the assembly & apply a heavy ring of grease to the area between the bearing races in the hub.
7. Slip the hub onto the spindle, keeping as much grease as possible inside.
8. Fill as much of the hub as possible with grease, up to the outer wheel bearing race.
9. Slip the packed outer bearing onto the spindle, centering the hub around it so it goes in all the way.
10. Leaving any excess grease in place, install the wheel bearing adjusting nut(s) according to the appropriate procedure.
11. Fill the area between the nut(s) & hub wall with grease, NOT to extend outboard of the nuts.
12. Install any necessary hardware & the hub locks.
Seal for 95-96; "...The spindle bearing seal is 3 pieces (1 rubber & 2 hard plastic), but it's only shown in this diagram as parts #2 & 3. http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/277564. I wouldn't be surprised if the aftermarket (old-style) part isn't identical to OE, but it's functionally identical.."
by Ford & Steve83
Spindle & Seal Part Numbers for 95-96; "...Due to a bonehead I let do the balljoints on my 96 last year, I had to replace a spindle on my 96 this year (long story... dont ask). Anyway in the process of trying to locate a new spindle, I learned some things.. First is that if your build date (located on the sticker on the drivers side door striker pillar) is AFTER 05-95 you will have a very hard time sourcing a spindle from a local place ... including the dealer. Neither carquest , napa or any other parts outlet even listed the part... Ford told me that a pre 05-95 spindle was available (at a cost of about 360.00) They told me that there were four post 5-95 build date spindles available as dealer stock.. two were at dealers in wisconsin and two in either ny or nj (dont remember which). Then the parts guy ( friend of mine) told me that they were being sold for 650.00 each because they were "no longer serviced by ford" (ford was no linger getting them from supplier) He then suggested a dana/spicer wholesaler out of Billings, Mt (fairly local to me) called Inland Truck Parts Company. I called Inland. They wanted a bill of material number from my axle (located on a sticker on the back side of the passenger side axle beam... its shown as the "dana part #"). I gave them the number and the guy told me they were still available from dana/spicer. best part was the cost.. $162.00 and change... it cost me 173.00 with three day ups. The dana part # of this spindle is 75304x. Its for 95-96 bronco-f150 w/front abs I got the part in three days , was the correct replacement and had no problems. If you are having problems finding the correct replacement spindle pm me and I can help.. ALso, these spindles come loaded with the correct spindle bearing and spindle seal. There is a seal that is only used on 95-96's ( i think) as well that is located on the axle stub shaft. It is not the metal "slinger" type piece with seal, but a one piece rubber seal that is a primary seal that is seated on the stub shaft and rides on the back side of the spindle. It is a smaller version of the forsheda seal that attaches to the otside of the spindle and rides on the inner wheel hub seal. This seal is ford part # f3tz1s175bba. Again, any questions and pm me , I will try to help cause I know these newer parts are confusing and hard to find..."
Source: by b wojo
Spindle & Seal Part Numbers for 95-96; "...Ford has replaced some of the numbers with seals that are not correct. When I did mine last year (96, not sure how closee to yours), the parts guy new his stuff and said when they crossed some numbers they didn't get it right. I went to five dealers and each had the same problem. Don't go to Pep Boys and get the seals they sell. Even though they are Chicago Rawhide, same as Napa relabel, they are not the better ones. The parts they have are a very cheap version, which may work, but I wouldn't trust. Napa had to order in the 25009, but they got it in a day. As far as seal 3, the one I got new from Ford was one piece, but the one that came out broke into the three pieces. If you get the Ford one, you will see how easy it is to snap apart. Seal 2 is actually a smaller version of seal 6, but the oneFord parts guy said that they don't have a replacement. Fortunately Napa has one. They have one part D3TZ3C132A that they try to sell. It is a metal slinger that could be pressed in place of seal 2, but it has no sealing properties, just a stamped part that looks like a washer with a lip where it slides over the axle. Item 2 is Ford F3TZ1S175BBA Item 3 is FOrd F3TZ1SZ175AA Item 6 is NAPA NOS25009 http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...+-+Front+Wheel Item 7 is Napa NOS23276..."
Source: by Tony R (TonyR)
Spindle Differences 94-95; "...In addition to the ~'92 loss of a spindle stud (leaving 5) and the addition of 2 notches in the spindle ****** for the 4WABS sensor used on '93-96 Broncos only, the spindle was also redesigned in ~'95..."
Source: by Steve83
Thank you to those that sent advice I have gone over all of it. My Bronco is a 96 I bought it 3 weeks ago and have been doing needed maintenance. The truck has a "death wobble" above 40mph, we put it on the lift and checked bushings and they look old but nothing was blown out, alignment is ok. I know the rotors are worn and warped which adds to wobble on stops. I decided to replace wheel and spindle bearings during the brake job. I started the brake job (last owner converted to Mile Marker hubs).
First problem, he didn't convert the lock nuts and still has the auto hub nut and clip but nothing else. He was too cheap to get the socket instead he chisled the nut in place so the nut is all chewed up. And the lock c-clip fell out, no washer spacer to hold it in place. The nut was so tight he crushed the new Timken bearing case he installed. Since I didn't have a replacement set of lock nuts, found them at Jeff's $10 a side, I had to carefully chisled the nut back in while I get parts.
I have a few more questions.
1. Are the M/M lock outs supposed to have the spring inside? Held in behind cam with lock ring.
2. I ordered the spindle bearing kit from Jeff's do both seals in the kit go inner/behind the spindle?
I ask because I didn't pull the spindle yet but it had a outer seal next to the wheel bearing seal. This seal is worn any recomendations on a parts store that sell the outer spindle seal?
3. Once I change the lock nuts should I tighten them the 50lb, back 45 degree, add lock and second nut, tighten to 150 lbs method?
Any other tips are welcome.
Thanks Guys
First problem, he didn't convert the lock nuts and still has the auto hub nut and clip but nothing else. He was too cheap to get the socket instead he chisled the nut in place so the nut is all chewed up. And the lock c-clip fell out, no washer spacer to hold it in place. The nut was so tight he crushed the new Timken bearing case he installed. Since I didn't have a replacement set of lock nuts, found them at Jeff's $10 a side, I had to carefully chisled the nut back in while I get parts.
I have a few more questions.
1. Are the M/M lock outs supposed to have the spring inside? Held in behind cam with lock ring.
2. I ordered the spindle bearing kit from Jeff's do both seals in the kit go inner/behind the spindle?
I ask because I didn't pull the spindle yet but it had a outer seal next to the wheel bearing seal. This seal is worn any recomendations on a parts store that sell the outer spindle seal?
3. Once I change the lock nuts should I tighten them the 50lb, back 45 degree, add lock and second nut, tighten to 150 lbs method?
Any other tips are welcome.
Thanks Guys
yo,
see some thorough installation LINKs in my site at http://web.archive.org/web/20110704114437/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=508;
look @ Dana 44 Replacement, Front Wheel & Spindle Installation
use one ones for 95 or 96, as you well know of the differences from earlier years
Seals are avail @ my Ford dealer; I last checked in mid-FEB of this year; otherwise
We'll begin w/ the parts diagram first;
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e9800a.gif
1 3A329 Halfshaft
2 3C132 (Axle) Rolling Diaphragm Seal
3 3299 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing Seal
4 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle
5 3105 Front Wheel Spindle
6 3254 Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (also called, OUTER)
7 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal
8 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
9 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor
10 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
11 — Pin (Part of 1195)
12 1195 Inner Lock Nut
13 1198 Lockwasher
14 1197 Outer Lock Nut
15 — Steel ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
16 — Plastic ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
17 — Splined ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
18 3B457 C-Ring
19 1K105 Hub Body
20 — Lock Ring (Part of 1K106)
21 1K104 Cup
22 1K104 Capscrew
A — While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten Inner Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearing. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn).
B — Tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 Lb-Ft)
C — Tighten to 4-6 Nm (35-53 Lb-In)
---
read what Tony R said;
Item 2 is Ford F3TZ1S175BBA
Item 3 is FOrd F3TZ1SZ175AA
Item 6 is NAPA NOS25009
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...+-+Front+Wheel
Item 7 is Napa NOS23276
Ford has replaced some of the numbers with seals that are not correct. When I did mine last year (96, not sure how closee to yours), the parts guy new his stuff and said when they crossed some numbers they didn't get it right. I went to five dealers and each had the same problem.
Don't go to Pep Boys and get the seals they sell. Even though they are Chicago Rawhide, same as Napa relabel, they are not the better ones. The parts they have are a very cheap version, which may work, but I wouldn't trust.
Napa had to order in the 25009, but they got it in a day.
As far as seal 3, the one I got new from Ford was one piece, but the one that came out broke into the three pieces. If you get the Ford one, you will see how easy it is to snap apart. Seal 2 is actually a smaller version of seal 6, but the oneFord parts guy said that they don't have a replacement. Fortunately Napa has one.
They have one part D3TZ3C132A that they try to sell. It is a metal slinger that could be pressed in place of seal 2, but it has no sealing properties, just a stamped part that looks like a washer with a lip where it slides over the axle"...
=============----
for the Milemarker; this is what the kit looks like (without any conversion kit for 3 ***** auto hubs)
Pic by my pal Malcolm
Any spring belongs in the hub body and that doesn't need to be diassembled now.
Use Ford's torque specs for the Milemarker manual hubs
1996 F-150, F-250 4x4 and Bronco Workshop Manual
Spindle, RH and LH Shaft and Joint Assembly
This is from FORD's 1996 F-150, F-250 4x4 and Bronco Workshop Manual............I have it repeated below for my Note placement.....& in case my pals remove it from the net. EDIT on 13 JUL 2014; Ford did remove it from WWW; called them in June 2014 & spokesperson said it was a error by their part by placing it on the WWW, but here is a partial 96 Manual by dieseldave at http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number
Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100-A
Bearing Cup Puller T77F-1102-A
Spindle Bearing Replacer T80T-4000-R
Spindle Bearing Replacer T80T-4000-S
Driver Handle T80T-4000-W
Spindle Seal Replacer T92T-4000-A
Spindle Seal Replacer T95T-3132-E
Spindle Seal Replacer T95T-3132-C
Driver Handle T83T-3132-A1
Shaft Seal Replacer T95T-3132-A
Shaft Seal Replacer T95T-3132-B
Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A
Removal
Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.
Remove the wheels (1007) and tires. Refer to Section 04-04.
On vehicles equipped with four-wheel anti-lock brakes, remove the front brake anti-lock sensor (2C204) from the steering knuckle. Refer to Section 06-09B. Soak it a LOT w/PB Blaster or =... the sensor's mount (often called a shield) does break often so be careful
4WABS Sensor, Front Wheel Location pic & Shield Location pic on Spindle, Front Wheel in 93-96 Bronco; Note, driver's side pn is 44619 LH by SigEpBlue (Steve)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/72054
CAUTION: After removal, the disc brake caliper (2B120) must be wired to the frame or otherwise supported to prevent suspending the disc brake caliper by the flexible hose. If securing the disc brake caliper is not practical, disconnect the brake hose from the disc brake caliper. Plug the hose end to prevent fluid loss and entry of air into the system. Upon installation of the disc brake caliper, bleed the brake system as described in Section 06-00.
Remove the disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03. Securely wire the disc brake caliper to the frame.
Spindle and LH Shaft and Joint Installation, Typical
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e7131c.gif
Item Part Number Description
1 3B403 Axle Arm (LH)
2 3219 Shaft
3 3C132 Axle Shaft Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS)
4 3249 Front Axle Shaft Universal Joint
5 87747-S2 Filler Plug
6 3A049 Nut
7 72035-S Pin
8 3049 Front Suspension Upper Ball Joint
9 3A050 Nut
10 3K050 Snap Ring
11 3050 Front Suspension Lower Ball Joint
12 3130 Steering Knuckle Assembly
13 2K004 Front Disc Brake Rotor Shield
14 3299 Integral Spacer/Seal
15 3123 Caged Needle Bearing
16 3105 Front Wheel Spindle
17 35704 Nut
18 3254 Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS)
(F-150 and Bronco Only)
19 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal
20 4221 Differential Bearing
21 4222 Differential Bearing Cup
22 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor
23 — (Part of 1102) Hub
A — Tighten to 136 Nm
(100 Lb-Ft)
B — Tighten to 123-149 Nm
(91-110 Lb-Ft)
C — Tighten to 47 Nm (35 Lb-Ft) for Model 44 or 68-81 Nm (50-60 Lb-Ft) for Model 50.
RH Shaft and Joint Assembly Installation, Typical
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e5372d.gif
Item Part Number Description
1 1175 Rolling Diaphragm Seal
2 3B400 Camber Adjuster
3 3B402 Right Support Arm
4 3B478 Keystone Clamp
5 3A466 Slip-Yoke and Stub Shaft
6 3B403 Left Axle Arm
7 3A429 Rubber Boot
8 3219 Right Shaft and Joint
Remove hub locks, wheel bearings, and locknuts. Refer to Section 05-03C.
Automatic Locking Hub, F-150 and Bronco
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e9804b.gif
Item Part Number Description
1 3A329 Halfshaft
2 3C132 Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS), Axle
3 3299 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing Seal
4 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle
5 3105 Front Wheel Spindle
6 3254 Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (OUTER)
7 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal
8 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
9 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor
10 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
11 3B549 Wheel Retainer Key
12 — Steel ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
13 — Plastic ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
14 — Splined ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
15 1K104 Capscrew
16 1K104 Cap
17 — Lock Ring (Part of 1K106)
18 1K105 Hub Body
19 3B457 C-Ring
20 — Cam Assembly (Part of 1K105)
21 — Wheel Retainer (Nut) (Part of 1K105)
A — Tighten to 4-6 Nm (35-53 Lb-In)
B — While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn). Tighten to 1.8 Nm (16 Lb-In)
Removal
CAUTION: Do not drop hub components during removal and installation.
Separate cap from body assembly by removing the three capscrews, using Torx® bit TX25 or equivalent, from the cap.
Remove cap.
Remove the lock ring seated in the groove of the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102).
Remove the body assembly from the front disc brake hub and rotor.
Automatic Locking Hub, Disassembled View, Typical
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e9806a.gif
Item Part Number Description
1 1K104 Cap
2 1K105 Hub Body
3 3B457 Snap Ring
4 — Plastic ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
5 — Cam Assembly (Part of 1K105)
6 — Wheel Retainer (Nut) (Part of 1K105)
7 3B549 Wheel Retainer Key
8 — Steel ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
9 — Splined ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
10 — Lock Ring (Part of 1K106)
11 1K104 Capscrews (3)
A — While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten Wheel Retainer (Nut) to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn). Tighten to 1.8 Nm (16 Lb-In).
B — Tighten to 4-6 Nm (35-53 Lb-In)
Remove C-washer or snap ring from stub shaft groove.
Remove spacers (three ****** washers) from shaft.
Remove cam assembly. Pull to remove.
If front disc brake hub and rotor and front wheel spindle (3105) are to be removed, refer to Wheel Grease Seal and Bearing, Front Replacement and Repacking in the Disassembly and Assembly portion of this section.
See my site under BRAKE, ROTOR & PAD for info LINKs @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=989
-----------
Remove the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102) and front wheel bearing (1216) from the front wheel spindle (3105).
Inspect the outer spindle hub rolling diaphragm seal for F-150 and Bronco only. If necessary, pry off using a screwdriver.
NOTE: Relieve the suction between the axle shaft rolling diaphragm seal (RDS) and the front wheel spindle by gently lifting the seal lip away from the back of the front wheel spindle which will allow the front wheel spindle to slip off the axle shaft.
Remove the nuts retaining the front wheel spindle to the steering knuckle. Tap the front wheel spindle with a nylon or rawhide hammer to jar the front wheel spindle from the knuckle. Remove the front disc brake rotor shield (2K004).
On the left side of the vehicle remove the shaft and joint assembly by pulling the assembly out of the carrier.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e9083a.gif
On the right side of the carrier, remove and discard the keystone clamp from the shaft and joint assembly and the stub shaft.
NOTE: Since the splines on the shaft are not phased, the shaft and joint assembly and slip-yoke must be marked to maintain U-joint phasing during assembly.
Slide the rubber boot onto the stub shaft. Mark the shaft and slip-yoke to maintain U-joint phasing during assembly. Pull the shaft and joint assembly from the splines of the stub shaft.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e5420b.gif
Item Part Number Description
1 3219 Shaft and Joint Assembly
2 3B478 Keystone Clamp
3 3A429 Boot
4 3220 Shaft and Joint Assembly
Remove rolling diaphragm seal from axle shaft.
Place the front wheel spindle in a vise on the second step of the front wheel spindle. Wrap a shop towel around the front wheel spindle or use a brass-jawed vise to protect the front wheel spindle.
Remove the integral spacer/seal and needle bearing from the front wheel spindle with Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100-A and Bearing Cup Puller T77F-1102-A.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e7132b.gif
Inspect the sealing surfaces of the front wheel spindle for severely corroded, pitted, worn or galled sealing surfaces. Replace front wheel spindle if damaged.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e71331a.gif
Installation
Clean all dirt and grease from the bearing bore of the front wheel spindle. Bearing bores must be free from nicks and burrs.
NOTE: Replacement spindle bearings are shipped with a corrosion-preventive gel. This is not a lubricant. The bearing must be cleaned and replaced with the specified lubricant.
Install a new needle bearing with writing facing outward in the bore of the front wheel spindle with Spindle Bearing Replacer T80T-4000-R on the Dana 50, or T80T-4000-S for the Dana 44 and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W. Lubricate the bearing with High Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e4215c.gif
Install a new integral spacer needle bearing seal. Pack spindle bearing with grease (see Step 2). Install seal with Seal Replacer T92T-4000-A and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W for Model 50. For Model 44, use Driver Handle T80T-4000-W and Spindle Seal Replacer T95T-3132-E.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e8789c.gif
For F-150 and Bronco only, install outer spindle hub rolling diaphragm seal. Seat the rolling diaphragm seal by lightly tapping on the inner sheet metal lip of the seal with Spindle Seal Replacer T95T-3132C, Driver Handle T83T-3132-A1, and a hammer to make sure it is sealed squarely.
Installation of Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal — F-150 and Bronco Only
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e9785b.gif
Install the rolling diaphragm seal on the axle shaft. The lip of the seal should face toward the front wheel spindle. Seat the rolling diaphragm seal by lightly tapping on the inner sheet metal lip of the seal with a Shaft Seal Replacer T95T-3132-A for F-150 and Bronco or T95T-3132-B for F-250, Driver Handle T83T-3132-A1, and a hammer to make sure it is seated fully and squarely.
Lightly coat the lips of the axle shaft rolling diaphragm seal (RDS) and the mating surface of the front wheel spindle with High Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e7137b.gif
NOTE: Since the splines on the shaft are not phased, the shaft and joint assembly and slip-yoke must be marked to maintain U-joint phasing during assembly.
On the right side of the carrier, install the rubber boot and new keystone clamps on the stub shaft slip-yoke.
Align the mark (made during removal) in the slip-yoke barrel with the mark on the shaft and joint assembly.
Slide the right shaft and joint assembly through the knuckle and into the slip-yoke making sure the splines are fully engaged.
Slide the boot over the assembly and crimp the keystone clamp using Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A.
On the left side of the carrier slide the shaft and joint through the knuckle and engage the splines on the shaft in the carrier.
NOTE: Make sure the grease seal lip totally encircles the front wheel spindle.
NOTE: Lightly coat the splindle RDS seal lip and its mating surface on the hub and rotor with High Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A.
Install the front disc brake rotor shield and front wheel spindle onto the steering knuckle. Install and tighten the nuts of the front wheel spindle to 68-81 Nm (50-60 lb-ft) for Model 50 axle or 47 Nm (35 lb-ft) for Model 44 axle.
CAUTION: Any dents or nicks in the can of the wheel bearing seal can prevent proper sealing.
Install the front disc brake hub and rotor on the front wheel spindle. Install the outer wheel bearing into the cup. Refer to Section 05-03C.
Install the wheel bearing, locknut, front wheel outer bearing retainer washer (1195), snap ring and locking hubs per Section 05-03C.
Install the disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03.
On vehicles equipped with four-wheel anti-lock brakes, install the front brake anti-lock sensor on the steering knuckle. Refer to Section 06-09B.
Fill front axle lubricant.
Remove the safety stands and lower the vehicle.
see some thorough installation LINKs in my site at http://web.archive.org/web/20110704114437/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=508;
look @ Dana 44 Replacement, Front Wheel & Spindle Installation
use one ones for 95 or 96, as you well know of the differences from earlier years
Seals are avail @ my Ford dealer; I last checked in mid-FEB of this year; otherwise
We'll begin w/ the parts diagram first;
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e9800a.gif
1 3A329 Halfshaft
2 3C132 (Axle) Rolling Diaphragm Seal
3 3299 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing Seal
4 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle
5 3105 Front Wheel Spindle
6 3254 Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (also called, OUTER)
7 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal
8 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
9 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor
10 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
11 — Pin (Part of 1195)
12 1195 Inner Lock Nut
13 1198 Lockwasher
14 1197 Outer Lock Nut
15 — Steel ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
16 — Plastic ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
17 — Splined ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
18 3B457 C-Ring
19 1K105 Hub Body
20 — Lock Ring (Part of 1K106)
21 1K104 Cup
22 1K104 Capscrew
A — While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten Inner Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearing. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn).
B — Tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 Lb-Ft)
C — Tighten to 4-6 Nm (35-53 Lb-In)
---
read what Tony R said;
Item 2 is Ford F3TZ1S175BBA
Item 3 is FOrd F3TZ1SZ175AA
Item 6 is NAPA NOS25009
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...+-+Front+Wheel
Item 7 is Napa NOS23276
Ford has replaced some of the numbers with seals that are not correct. When I did mine last year (96, not sure how closee to yours), the parts guy new his stuff and said when they crossed some numbers they didn't get it right. I went to five dealers and each had the same problem.
Don't go to Pep Boys and get the seals they sell. Even though they are Chicago Rawhide, same as Napa relabel, they are not the better ones. The parts they have are a very cheap version, which may work, but I wouldn't trust.
Napa had to order in the 25009, but they got it in a day.
As far as seal 3, the one I got new from Ford was one piece, but the one that came out broke into the three pieces. If you get the Ford one, you will see how easy it is to snap apart. Seal 2 is actually a smaller version of seal 6, but the oneFord parts guy said that they don't have a replacement. Fortunately Napa has one.
They have one part D3TZ3C132A that they try to sell. It is a metal slinger that could be pressed in place of seal 2, but it has no sealing properties, just a stamped part that looks like a washer with a lip where it slides over the axle"...
=============----
for the Milemarker; this is what the kit looks like (without any conversion kit for 3 ***** auto hubs)
Pic by my pal Malcolm
Any spring belongs in the hub body and that doesn't need to be diassembled now.
Use Ford's torque specs for the Milemarker manual hubs
1996 F-150, F-250 4x4 and Bronco Workshop Manual
Spindle, RH and LH Shaft and Joint Assembly
This is from FORD's 1996 F-150, F-250 4x4 and Bronco Workshop Manual............I have it repeated below for my Note placement.....& in case my pals remove it from the net. EDIT on 13 JUL 2014; Ford did remove it from WWW; called them in June 2014 & spokesperson said it was a error by their part by placing it on the WWW, but here is a partial 96 Manual by dieseldave at http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number
Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100-A
Bearing Cup Puller T77F-1102-A
Spindle Bearing Replacer T80T-4000-R
Spindle Bearing Replacer T80T-4000-S
Driver Handle T80T-4000-W
Spindle Seal Replacer T92T-4000-A
Spindle Seal Replacer T95T-3132-E
Spindle Seal Replacer T95T-3132-C
Driver Handle T83T-3132-A1
Shaft Seal Replacer T95T-3132-A
Shaft Seal Replacer T95T-3132-B
Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A
Removal
Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.
Remove the wheels (1007) and tires. Refer to Section 04-04.
On vehicles equipped with four-wheel anti-lock brakes, remove the front brake anti-lock sensor (2C204) from the steering knuckle. Refer to Section 06-09B. Soak it a LOT w/PB Blaster or =... the sensor's mount (often called a shield) does break often so be careful
4WABS Sensor, Front Wheel Location pic & Shield Location pic on Spindle, Front Wheel in 93-96 Bronco; Note, driver's side pn is 44619 LH by SigEpBlue (Steve)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/72054
CAUTION: After removal, the disc brake caliper (2B120) must be wired to the frame or otherwise supported to prevent suspending the disc brake caliper by the flexible hose. If securing the disc brake caliper is not practical, disconnect the brake hose from the disc brake caliper. Plug the hose end to prevent fluid loss and entry of air into the system. Upon installation of the disc brake caliper, bleed the brake system as described in Section 06-00.
Remove the disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03. Securely wire the disc brake caliper to the frame.
Spindle and LH Shaft and Joint Installation, Typical
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e7131c.gif
Item Part Number Description
1 3B403 Axle Arm (LH)
2 3219 Shaft
3 3C132 Axle Shaft Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS)
4 3249 Front Axle Shaft Universal Joint
5 87747-S2 Filler Plug
6 3A049 Nut
7 72035-S Pin
8 3049 Front Suspension Upper Ball Joint
9 3A050 Nut
10 3K050 Snap Ring
11 3050 Front Suspension Lower Ball Joint
12 3130 Steering Knuckle Assembly
13 2K004 Front Disc Brake Rotor Shield
14 3299 Integral Spacer/Seal
15 3123 Caged Needle Bearing
16 3105 Front Wheel Spindle
17 35704 Nut
18 3254 Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS)
(F-150 and Bronco Only)
19 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal
20 4221 Differential Bearing
21 4222 Differential Bearing Cup
22 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor
23 — (Part of 1102) Hub
A — Tighten to 136 Nm
(100 Lb-Ft)
B — Tighten to 123-149 Nm
(91-110 Lb-Ft)
C — Tighten to 47 Nm (35 Lb-Ft) for Model 44 or 68-81 Nm (50-60 Lb-Ft) for Model 50.
RH Shaft and Joint Assembly Installation, Typical
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e5372d.gif
Item Part Number Description
1 1175 Rolling Diaphragm Seal
2 3B400 Camber Adjuster
3 3B402 Right Support Arm
4 3B478 Keystone Clamp
5 3A466 Slip-Yoke and Stub Shaft
6 3B403 Left Axle Arm
7 3A429 Rubber Boot
8 3219 Right Shaft and Joint
Remove hub locks, wheel bearings, and locknuts. Refer to Section 05-03C.
Automatic Locking Hub, F-150 and Bronco
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e9804b.gif
Item Part Number Description
1 3A329 Halfshaft
2 3C132 Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS), Axle
3 3299 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing Seal
4 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle
5 3105 Front Wheel Spindle
6 3254 Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (OUTER)
7 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal
8 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
9 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor
10 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
11 3B549 Wheel Retainer Key
12 — Steel ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
13 — Plastic ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
14 — Splined ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
15 1K104 Capscrew
16 1K104 Cap
17 — Lock Ring (Part of 1K106)
18 1K105 Hub Body
19 3B457 C-Ring
20 — Cam Assembly (Part of 1K105)
21 — Wheel Retainer (Nut) (Part of 1K105)
A — Tighten to 4-6 Nm (35-53 Lb-In)
B — While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn). Tighten to 1.8 Nm (16 Lb-In)
Removal
CAUTION: Do not drop hub components during removal and installation.
Separate cap from body assembly by removing the three capscrews, using Torx® bit TX25 or equivalent, from the cap.
Remove cap.
Remove the lock ring seated in the groove of the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102).
Remove the body assembly from the front disc brake hub and rotor.
Automatic Locking Hub, Disassembled View, Typical
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e9806a.gif
Item Part Number Description
1 1K104 Cap
2 1K105 Hub Body
3 3B457 Snap Ring
4 — Plastic ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
5 — Cam Assembly (Part of 1K105)
6 — Wheel Retainer (Nut) (Part of 1K105)
7 3B549 Wheel Retainer Key
8 — Steel ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
9 — Splined ****** Washer (Part of 3B458)
10 — Lock Ring (Part of 1K106)
11 1K104 Capscrews (3)
A — While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten Wheel Retainer (Nut) to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn). Tighten to 1.8 Nm (16 Lb-In).
B — Tighten to 4-6 Nm (35-53 Lb-In)
Remove C-washer or snap ring from stub shaft groove.
Remove spacers (three ****** washers) from shaft.
Remove cam assembly. Pull to remove.
If front disc brake hub and rotor and front wheel spindle (3105) are to be removed, refer to Wheel Grease Seal and Bearing, Front Replacement and Repacking in the Disassembly and Assembly portion of this section.
See my site under BRAKE, ROTOR & PAD for info LINKs @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=989
-----------
Remove the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102) and front wheel bearing (1216) from the front wheel spindle (3105).
Inspect the outer spindle hub rolling diaphragm seal for F-150 and Bronco only. If necessary, pry off using a screwdriver.
NOTE: Relieve the suction between the axle shaft rolling diaphragm seal (RDS) and the front wheel spindle by gently lifting the seal lip away from the back of the front wheel spindle which will allow the front wheel spindle to slip off the axle shaft.
Remove the nuts retaining the front wheel spindle to the steering knuckle. Tap the front wheel spindle with a nylon or rawhide hammer to jar the front wheel spindle from the knuckle. Remove the front disc brake rotor shield (2K004).
On the left side of the vehicle remove the shaft and joint assembly by pulling the assembly out of the carrier.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e9083a.gif
On the right side of the carrier, remove and discard the keystone clamp from the shaft and joint assembly and the stub shaft.
NOTE: Since the splines on the shaft are not phased, the shaft and joint assembly and slip-yoke must be marked to maintain U-joint phasing during assembly.
Slide the rubber boot onto the stub shaft. Mark the shaft and slip-yoke to maintain U-joint phasing during assembly. Pull the shaft and joint assembly from the splines of the stub shaft.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e5420b.gif
Item Part Number Description
1 3219 Shaft and Joint Assembly
2 3B478 Keystone Clamp
3 3A429 Boot
4 3220 Shaft and Joint Assembly
Remove rolling diaphragm seal from axle shaft.
Place the front wheel spindle in a vise on the second step of the front wheel spindle. Wrap a shop towel around the front wheel spindle or use a brass-jawed vise to protect the front wheel spindle.
Remove the integral spacer/seal and needle bearing from the front wheel spindle with Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100-A and Bearing Cup Puller T77F-1102-A.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e7132b.gif
Inspect the sealing surfaces of the front wheel spindle for severely corroded, pitted, worn or galled sealing surfaces. Replace front wheel spindle if damaged.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e71331a.gif
Installation
Clean all dirt and grease from the bearing bore of the front wheel spindle. Bearing bores must be free from nicks and burrs.
NOTE: Replacement spindle bearings are shipped with a corrosion-preventive gel. This is not a lubricant. The bearing must be cleaned and replaced with the specified lubricant.
Install a new needle bearing with writing facing outward in the bore of the front wheel spindle with Spindle Bearing Replacer T80T-4000-R on the Dana 50, or T80T-4000-S for the Dana 44 and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W. Lubricate the bearing with High Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e4215c.gif
Install a new integral spacer needle bearing seal. Pack spindle bearing with grease (see Step 2). Install seal with Seal Replacer T92T-4000-A and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W for Model 50. For Model 44, use Driver Handle T80T-4000-W and Spindle Seal Replacer T95T-3132-E.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e8789c.gif
For F-150 and Bronco only, install outer spindle hub rolling diaphragm seal. Seat the rolling diaphragm seal by lightly tapping on the inner sheet metal lip of the seal with Spindle Seal Replacer T95T-3132C, Driver Handle T83T-3132-A1, and a hammer to make sure it is sealed squarely.
Installation of Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal — F-150 and Bronco Only
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e9785b.gif
Install the rolling diaphragm seal on the axle shaft. The lip of the seal should face toward the front wheel spindle. Seat the rolling diaphragm seal by lightly tapping on the inner sheet metal lip of the seal with a Shaft Seal Replacer T95T-3132-A for F-150 and Bronco or T95T-3132-B for F-250, Driver Handle T83T-3132-A1, and a hammer to make sure it is seated fully and squarely.
Lightly coat the lips of the axle shaft rolling diaphragm seal (RDS) and the mating surface of the front wheel spindle with High Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e7137b.gif
NOTE: Since the splines on the shaft are not phased, the shaft and joint assembly and slip-yoke must be marked to maintain U-joint phasing during assembly.
On the right side of the carrier, install the rubber boot and new keystone clamps on the stub shaft slip-yoke.
Align the mark (made during removal) in the slip-yoke barrel with the mark on the shaft and joint assembly.
Slide the right shaft and joint assembly through the knuckle and into the slip-yoke making sure the splines are fully engaged.
Slide the boot over the assembly and crimp the keystone clamp using Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A.
On the left side of the carrier slide the shaft and joint through the knuckle and engage the splines on the shaft in the carrier.
NOTE: Make sure the grease seal lip totally encircles the front wheel spindle.
NOTE: Lightly coat the splindle RDS seal lip and its mating surface on the hub and rotor with High Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A.
Install the front disc brake rotor shield and front wheel spindle onto the steering knuckle. Install and tighten the nuts of the front wheel spindle to 68-81 Nm (50-60 lb-ft) for Model 50 axle or 47 Nm (35 lb-ft) for Model 44 axle.
CAUTION: Any dents or nicks in the can of the wheel bearing seal can prevent proper sealing.
Install the front disc brake hub and rotor on the front wheel spindle. Install the outer wheel bearing into the cup. Refer to Section 05-03C.
Install the wheel bearing, locknut, front wheel outer bearing retainer washer (1195), snap ring and locking hubs per Section 05-03C.
Install the disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03.
On vehicles equipped with four-wheel anti-lock brakes, install the front brake anti-lock sensor on the steering knuckle. Refer to Section 06-09B.
Fill front axle lubricant.
Remove the safety stands and lower the vehicle.
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Got the correct locking nut sets from Jeff's, $10 a side, and put new bearings, rotor/hubs, and pads on. The death wobble is solved. I still have a tough time that the previous owner replaced the bearings but crushed the cages by putting them on so tight?
On to the next item on my list, the back window, I am making progress by reading posts on that issue.
Thanks for the info.
On to the next item on my list, the back window, I am making progress by reading posts on that issue.
Thanks for the info.
Thank you very much. Spent 4 weeks back and forth from ford and auto zone to get the #6 spindle outer grease seal before i stumbled upon your article. You are spot on. Ford crossed numbers. your napa numbers work perfect. Thanks. PS I have 1996 xlt 5.8 ABS bronco automatic hubs.
yo BJB.
WELCOME!
and yw!
Come back to advise other 95/96 owners w/similar issues when you can.
Take pics of some work you do and post when needed.
btw here is a 96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL) by dieseldave
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm
and 96 Owner's Guide by Hiller Ford (pdf file)
http://www.hillerford.com/resource_library/owner_manuals_pdf/1996_owner_manuals_ford/96bronco.pdf
Be Well!
WELCOME!
and yw!
Come back to advise other 95/96 owners w/similar issues when you can.
Take pics of some work you do and post when needed.
btw here is a 96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL) by dieseldave
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm
and 96 Owner's Guide by Hiller Ford (pdf file)
http://www.hillerford.com/resource_library/owner_manuals_pdf/1996_owner_manuals_ford/96bronco.pdf
Be Well!
Last edited by a moderator:
