rear window stuck

/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> my rear window is stuck in the down postion just stoped working anybody no how i can get it back up and of course cant get to motor cause window down please help im a newb?

michigan450 said:

/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> my rear window is stuck in the down postion just stoped working anybody no how i can get it back up and of course cant get to motor cause window down please help im a newb?

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There is a sensor in the latch that won't allow you raise the window if the tailgate is open. DId you try pushing in on the tailgate while turning the key?

I don't this really answers your question, but there is a lot of background information in these two threads.

I hope they are helpful

joe

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...ost&p=71942

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...ost&p=70267

Since the window is down, you can get at the wires that hook to the motor. Remove the access panel and you will find the wires running along the bottom edge of the tail gate. You can jumper them using a set of jumpers from your battery or b rig it around back to shorten the wire run. Reversing the leads reverses the direction of the motor. If that doesn't work, then you have a motor problem. If it does work you have a connection problem some where along the cable. As previously stated the switch in the left hand tail gate switch will normally prevent the window from moving. A lot of people bypass that switch. Doing so makes it easy to move the window for service with the tail gate down. If you do that, just make sure you have some support for the window glass when while servicing the inside of the tail gate with the window out of the way in the UP position. If that doesn't make sense, it will once you have done it. The main purpose of that switch is to prevent you from opening and closing the tail gate with the window partially up/down.

Common problems:

1. Open tail gate safety switch

2. Blown fuse ( there are two, one for the driver switch (F14) and one for the tail gate key switch (F12))

3. Drive switch not in neutral position ( prevents the tail gate key switch from working)

4. corroded or broken wires (wires can break where they flex between the tail gate and quarter panel) (connectors exposed to weather often corrode, even to the point a wire completely breaks off, especially the one on the left rear cross member, just up behind the bumper).

Note: the ground path is from the motor back through the switches to a lug connected to the body under the dash board.

Try pushing on the tail gate while turning the key. Use a volt meter to check for 12V on the black with white stripe wire (hot at all times).

Diagrams attached: One for 80 - 86, and the second for 87 - 96

Good luck,

>-

I have much bigger fish to fry with my '79 than the rear window..

But it doesn't work and the wiring's fried.

So to postpone replacing the motor and wires, I have the panel removed on the tailgate, and have a manual suction cup (like a small dent puller suction) and use that to raise and lower the window. Since I only have the window down when it's nice out and only have it up when it's rainy.

Just a $5 fix to get by I thought someone might use someday.

Have 89/90 Bronco rear window stuck in up position,motor does work,however so much dirt in tracks and gearing (regulator) that it only moves a little bit so I'm trying to remove regulator and window with window in almost up position,so my question is can I un bolt regulator and slide it off of window and remove it that way? It's pretty bound up with dirt I'm removing the top so I can open the tailgate   to work on it so I don't have to stand on my head if anyone has had to do this pls get back with me .thanks PETE

Yo Pete,

Welcome!

See tailgate replacement by Dustin @ http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/

He points out safety info regarding regulator and torsion bar.

Combine his info and pics the with following by Rick, ".,,remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side - see below) that hold the regulator tracks to the glass brackets. Bend the regulator arms down slightly to pull the studs out of the brackets, and then push the glass up or down as needed. Be careful of the regulator!!!You should prevent the arms from moving before taking out the motor. I used a bolt and a bracket I found around the garage to secure the arms from snapping together......Remember to FULLY lower or remove the glass before lifting or closing the t/g..."

more tips:

The "rollers" in question are actually plastic, square blocks that slide back and forth in the tracks as the scissors move them up/down.Check weatherstrip for grime, lack of lubrication.Ford does recommend, "Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) and D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the door and window weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing between the door glass upper frame and the weatherstrip. It also helps to retain door window alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and the rubber weatherstrip. Use Multi-Purpose Grease Spray D7AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C106-B to lubricate door and tailgate hinges. Apply an even coat to all hinge pivot points as outlined in the maintenance schedules or when a binding or squeaking condition occurs..."miesk5 note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now, esp if from China.apply dry (Teflon) **** to the flocked surfaces that touch the glass; dry **** prevents noise & abrasion, and allows the glass to move faster; take off the TG access cover and spray Tri-Flow in the tracks on either side so the regulator toggles slide up and down easy" by JKossaridesIs window regulator rusted badly? If so, **** it with multi purpose grease.Are Glass rollers ok?Ensure that the motor is mounted properly to the back of the regulatorTailgate could be mis-aligned.

GL ! And think about registering here.

Have a great New Year Pete!

Al

Hi, I am trying to find a thread from earlier today. Someone Posted that they got so frustrated they hot wired the rear window to the car battery. I am right at that point. I have to travel 1800 miles, and need to access the back daily. Can anyone help me figure out how to do this? Thanks, Nancy

Yo Nancy,

See my reply to you at 

Miesk always has the best advice!
If you hear sound from the window motor, I usually found it to be those plastic bushings in the motor. The window is heavy so the motor wears out after all these years too.
If you don't hear sound, I found that's usually a bad motor or the safety switches aren't engaged.
Those lil round plastic things that go over the latches on the body are partly responsible for engaging the latch safety switch. Latching the latches? while the tailgate is down can help you with troubleshooting especially after removing that large panel to access everything. There's less gravity the window/motor will fight so this is an easy way to identify a weak vs. dead motor and also helps identify broken bushings.

Careful!!! The metal arms that hold the window are spring loaded and WILL break an appendage. I had a narrow miss but damn scary...