Issues with starting

Hello everyone i am new to the forums and i would like to say thanks in advance. I have a 89 bronco with a 5.0

I have been seraching and searching for a few weeks now and im still stuck.   So almost a month ago i was driving down the highway and i lost power pushing on the gas pedal nothing happened and then it died.  i coasted to the side of highway and i tried to restart it.  it would turn over but not start i got it towed homeand left it for the night.   when i started working on it i noticed that i was not gettign any fuel.  i could hear the inline pump kick on so i swapped out the inpump tank.  after the swap and trying to start it up nothing happened still turns over but no start and now I couldn't hear the inline pump.   i hooked up a pressure gauge to check the pressure and i was only getting around 8 psi. after more research it came down to the inline tank I swapped it out and it started right up.  I drove it to work the next everything worked great. that night when I got in to go home it would turn over but not start so I fiddled with the wires to the external pump. after that it started right up went home with now issues.  a few days of no issues I was heading home after work one night and it lost power and then died again.  this time it would not restart towed it home and I have been fighting it ever since.  

so far I have swapped out the in tank pump  the external pump the fuel filter and the fuel pump relay.   I have also disconnected all of the fuel lines and checking if I'm getting fuel through out the system.   the only place I was getting fuel was at the single function reservoir feed line. no fuel was coming out of the front line though.  I also checked the external pump with 12v power and it could be hear kicking on.  I also hooked up my multi meter to the power cables attaching to the external pump to see if I was getting 12v it was reading 11.8. when everything gets hooked back up the pump does not kick on. 

I'm not certain if I have a pump issue (fairly certain the pumps are good) or a wiring issue.  Does the pump need a full 12v?

I also can not post any codes I have tried two different obd readers and I have tried watching the engine light.  the second reader I tried would not even go into the test mode.   

thanks again in advance

Yo Irish,

Some thoughts,

Should have battery voltage at pumps about 13.5 volts

Will look for ground issues if battery is fully charged

Fuel Pump Test & Diagram at the Diagnostic Link Connector in 84-95; "...Connect FP Relay to any ground to force the fuel pump(s) on when the key is in RUN..."

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by Steve at

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/245234

What to do if you can get Codes from the Computer;

Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Test Due to Poor Grounds, Corroded Wiring, etc.; read more on how to Ground the STI & Proceed w/ Test;

by Jeremy M. At



miesk5 Note; Steve83 advises; "...If the CEL is burned out, connect CEL © to a 12V test light, and the light's other terminal to a 12V source on the same vehicle..."

& by Ryan at

http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=44]http://web.archive.org/web/20130912132727/http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=44

88-89 Broncos & F-series/E-series/Rangers/others with single tank dual-pump EFI. In this version, the only moving part is the tank-side inlet check valve. The return ports flow freely and are NOT connected to the reservoir. The engine-side supply port is open to the reservoir. To test it, unplug the frame fuel pump, disconnect the engine-side supply (large) line, and cycle the key. If fuel flows out of the reservoir ******, the reservoir is working normally. If not, disconnect the tank-side supply (large) line, and cycle the key. If fuel flows out of the line, the reservoir check valve is probably stuck, or its internal filter is clogged. A reservoir marked "DO NOT REMOVE CUP" does not contain a filter. For a replacement O-ring for the cup, buy a NAPA 3268 (or equivalent) filter..."

by Steve

Fuel Control wiring diagram in 89 5.0 Bronco

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=21138

Ok, have to roll now..

Thanks miesk5 I'll take a look when I get to the house and I'm able to sit down aND take a good look at everything

Yo,

Ok...

I was a little off when I replied, so hopefully some things will get you help you diagnose such as getting codes, finding out why voltage is low... etc.

Ok I checked out my relays and when I check the yellow wires on the fuel pump relay (should be the power wires from the ignition switch) I am not getting any power with key on. I checked thee eec relay and it all works as advertised.

Does the yellow wires run straight to the ignition switch or are they connected somewhere else first?

Yo,

Wish I could find a better wiring diagram showing complete path from fusible link n thru splices and then to eec relay to fp relay

Edit..

Found this by Seattle FSB

89 EVTM

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/20487/76449

One shows both relays



W/light blue from ignition switch to eec relay

Coil closes relay and then yellow wire from fusible link always hot through eec relay becomes red to

Fp relay coil

http://web.archive.org/web/20101201005424/http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/bronco_1989_40.gif

http://web.archive.org/web/20101201005441/http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/bronco_1989_28.gif

More diagrams at http://web.archive.org/web/20110905234805/http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=36

Ignition Switch Testing (Logic Tables); miesk5 Note, It is out of order, so read the 2nd from left page first

Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

http://broncozone.com/topic/14120-87-91-ignition-switch-info-troubleshooting-guide/

Brought in some reinforcements for the electrical work and found the issue. We ran a wire straight from the external pump to the starter power wire and she started right up. We started reading the pump power wire pack through to the inertia switch which looks like it got fried the plug and the connection on the inside of the switch I had to cut the wires to the switch to remove it from my bronco then two of us had to pull it apart. So I thought about just running a wire straight to the pump until I can't get it. Is this a bad idea or should I just wait tI'll I get the parts?

Thanks again for the help miesk

I decided against bypassing the inertia switch and I'm just going to do it correctly looks easy enough. Just have to wait for the part to get here

Good Idea, that switch is to prevent fuel being pumped in case of an accident.

>-

So I got the switch from the parts store (had to have it ordered) installed it today and nothing happened. I had to go to work so it had to be put on hold. Got home and went bak to it. I checked for volts and I was not getting any. After disconnecting the wires and checking for power again I am getting power through the brown wire (coming from fuel pump relay)with key on. I hooked the brown wire to the switch and checked power again and good as soon as I hook the pink and black running to the pump everything dies. If I run the pink and black to a key on sorce in the fuse panel the pump works and truck starts but pump does not shut off unless you turn key off. Where did I go wrong? Also if those two wires the brown and the pink and red came off old switch why do they not work with new switch?

Here is a diagram of how it should be wired.  If you have it wired that way, then you may have a short.  Did you make sure that the reset button on the switch was pressed in?  Check the continuity between the switch contacts.  You may have gotten a defective part.

Good luck,

>-

How would I check for a short? I have good continuity on the switch and all wires. I checked the switch and even tripped to reset just to make sure. Is there another way to check the switch to see if it's defective? I tried to take the brown wire to the pink and black and still nothing happens.

Yo,

For now...

Your q... If I run the pink and black to a key on sorce in the fuse panel the pump works and truck starts but pump does not shut off unless you turn key off.

Ok, that is because the pumps are getting constant battery voltage without any switch.

The issue now is the new ignition switch...

How did the connector appear on the harness side?

Does it look as if a previous owner or shop fooled it up?

Do any fuses blow when it dies?

Can a friend help you test the new ignition switch as well as the old switch using "Ignition Switch Testing (Logic Tables)" ..see my post #6

Sorry for the long delay but I finally got it running yesterday(took a break form it for a day or two though)  the power wires coming into the fuel pump relay mainly the yellow wire was messed up. fixed it and now she starts great.  I did however develop a whistling coming from the engine once the engine gets warm.  when I push on the pedal the noise goes away I let up it comes back.  if I put in in cruise the noise goes away.  I was thinking that it was a vacuum leak but all my hoses are hooked up.

Yo,

Good work!

You saved $$$ by diy.

It could be a belt.

Also, in case it is the belt...



diagram by Waltman in 89 5.0

...

Or

See my vacuum leak test at http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/?p=125535

Post number 20