Engine won't crank with key. Can start though.

Hi, I have an 89 Bronco that just started giving me problems last weekend. I stopped at a gas station and when I came back the key wouldn't start my truck. The dash lights come on, the fuel pumps kick on and it looks ready to roll but there's no resistance on the ignition switch where the starter would normally start cranking. I jumped the solenoid and it starts and runs fine. I put a new ignition switch in and it did the same thing. Any ideas what might be wrong? Also, the night before, it didn't start the first time I turned the key so I turned it off then tried again and it started fine. It did it twice that night so it seems it quickly progressed to going out completely.

Hey EL,

With the key in the start position, check for 12 volts at the small red wire with the lgt blue stripe.  That wire engages the solenoid. No voltage there in the "start" mode and you have a problem in the wiring, ignition switch, or neutral safety switch.  You may know that the switches can be adjusted by loosening the mounting screws, and sliding.

Also I have encountered the same no-start/ start condition when the battery to engine ground cable was old.  Check the ground cable and all other grounds as well.

Good Luck

yo E,

Do what Ron advised - Key still has no resistance when turning; see http://broncozone.com/topic/23600-steering-column/

excerpts from that post;

When you turn the key to "RUN/START" and there's no spring resistance feeling it usually the actuator is broken
Overview; "...The ignition rod is attached the upper ignition actuator by a 3/32 x 38 roll pin ($0.12 each) and the rod needs to be straight so it travels enough to trigger the igniton switch but it's a chore to take it off as you need to remove the steering wheel and tear it down to the (Tilt or Non-Tilt) knuckle, usually down when you replace a broken upper ignition actuator. The ignition switch located on the lower part of the steering column has slots so it can be adjusted by loosening the 2 -7/16 nuts and move it up or down but a lot depends on what's wrong up top with some of the other parts, ie: ignition rod, key cylinder, lower igniton actuator and upper igniton actuator. These parts are timed so when you turn the key to RUN they all need to move forward/downward so the rod triggers the igniton switch to START the BKO..."
Accessories that fail to operate with the key in RUN, or that remain on when the key is turned off, may be the result of a misadjusted ignition switch rather than a malfunctioning ignition switch. Test the ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition system should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinderbinding ignition switch lock cylindershroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinderburrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinderinsufficient **** on actuatorbinding ignition switchEnsure switch is securely mountedIgnition Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables) in 87-91 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone/455313-started-just-fine-aaahhhhh-wont-turn-off.html

Thanks Ron and Miesk. It was the ignition actuator that broke on me. I got it out and ready to replace then I got the damn ignition lock (not sure what it's called) stuck about 1/2 inch down the hole. How do I remove that?

The square piece that's attached to this is stuck.

Hey El,

UGH!!!!  man I'm glad I don't have that problem.   anyway you can get behind it from the bottom of the column?

Coat hanger wire?

Good Luck

Finally! Got that piece out by drilling it and pulling it with a *****. Now i don't know how to get the new actuator in. I took out the pins in each side and bottom to make room but it's still connected to the steering shaft. it looks like theres a big pin holding it onto the steering shaft but i don't want to beat it if it's not. Here's a pic of what i'm talking about.

Ahh. It was just a lock ring holding the rest of it on the shaft. Spent a while trying to figure it out and it was right in my face.