82 bronco parking brake trouble

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Brwbronco

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Hey guys I just bought this truck already changed the clutch and cleaned the carbs. I started it up and moved the blocks from behind the wheels and it begins to roll out the driveway. I reach and step on the parking brake to stop it and it just keeps rolling so I used the normal brakes. Could it be as simple as replacing cables or maybe my shoes need to be replaced. I have yet to check the thickness of them but that is next on my list. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Bully Bob

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Either the cable(s) is gone, broken, or the outer cable housing/mounts are broken/loose. Could be the adj. rod isn't threaded up correctly.

Not likely it's the shoes.

 
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Brwbronco

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Ok so do you recommend just replacing all the cables? I have done brake jobs but never on the parking brakes what all is it composed of?

 

Rons beast

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It could just need adjusting. block the wheels. engine off. get a helper and crawl underneeth. Look to see if the front cable, is attached to an equalizer, and the 2 rear cables. ( all 3 cables should meet in a Y configuration.)If so, have the helper apply the parking brake while you look at the cable and determine if it is actually moving, (being pulled toward the front of the truck). if it isn't it is broken or dissattached from the parking brake pedal mechanism.

if it is moving,try with channel locks to pull on one then the other rear cables. If you can pull them more than about an inch, they are probably not connected to the shoes inside the drums.

If they move some try to adjust the nut that is on the main cable, that pulls on the rear cables to shorten it. Have your helper push the pedal dowh about 4 or 5 clicks, and tighten the nut and shorten the main cable. You should be able to have a good tension on all the cables by the time you have the nut about half way down the threaded adjuster end of the main cable.

If this still doesn't get you at least some parking brake action, then you need to remove both drums and see what is going on in there.

The cables may be off the actuation lever, the equalizer bar at the top of the shoes may be out or installed improperly, The piviot point on The secondary shoe may be off. Or the entire rear brakes may be assambled incorrect. Get a manual to show the correct assembly, that will point you to what is wrong.

Good Luck

Tell us what you find

 
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Bully Bob

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It's a pretty simple set-up.

The pedal is a pivot arm with a ratchet catch to hold it in the on position.

(cable is attached to this arm)

The cable housing is attached to the firewall...the other end is under the veh. attached to a bracket.

The main cable runs down thru this housing. The cable mounts to a bar holding two other cable/housings .... running to ea. rear brake backing plate.

It's all pretty rugged so there's no need replacing parts that aren't broken or missing.

Likely need someone working the e-brake pedal while you watch the function fr. under the veh. (wheels chocked) ;) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
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Brwbronco

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Thank yall Ill try that this afternoon after work. I'll keep yall updated

 

Krafty

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the parking brakes are bad on these older trucks, I know from past experience if you don't use your parking brake every day, don't just start using it without checking it over first, typically the cables seize up in the casings in the split on the frame back to the rear axles, because of the two exposed parts of the cables they rust up here first.

usually one of 3 things happen, the pedal doesn't move cause the cables are seized, or the cables snap, (saw that happen on a 2003 chev) cause they were seized, or they move but nothing happens.

the last one can be because of cable failure, or like ron and bob said its out of adjustment.

with the rear up in the air and the tires and drums off, have someone press and release the parking brake so you can see if both sides are moving the same distance for even braking pressure. This would also be a good time for a rear brake job if you have it in the budget because usually the first thing to go bad on your brakes are the self adjusters at the bottom of the hub that spaces the bottom of the shoes out to compensate for shoe wear.

now if your shoes are okay and you don't have to replace any of the springs, then all you have to do is thread out the self adjusters until you can install the drum and you can feel the resistance of the shoes, then both your normal brakes and parking brake will function properly. If your adjusters are seized up beyond salvage you can buy just the adjusters from the parts stores for fairly cheap. Which reminds me I should re adjust my rear brakes this weekend.

 
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Brwbronco

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Hey guys sorry it took so long to get back. I checked last night the cables are attached to the rear drums on both sides I forgot to check the front though. I had my brother step on the brake while I watched it pulled the cables and released them when supposed to but there is no adjustment left. I did notice that there is no bracket for them on the rear axle or really anywhere that would hold them still while the brake is engaged or disengaged. I'm wondering is there supposed to be some one the rear axle or drum? Or is it possible they aren't connected inside of the drums? Oh and I haven't looked yet but it just hooks up on the backside of the front calipers, correct?

 

Krafty

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there are no parking brakes on the front only the rears, there should be two pins that hold the shoes against the bracket on the end of the axle, other than that the brake shoes just spread apart when the brakes are applied to push against the brake drum.

Drum Brakes (1).jpg

disregard the front brake portion of the picture, this picture is for all ford drum brakes, includes older models that have drum brakes front and rear,

Drum Brakes.jpg

 
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Brwbronco

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Ok I got it done. The problem was little to no brake shoes. Swapped them and put in new self-adjusting kits and now they work. Thanks yall

 

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