C-Bushings

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

khouse

77 BRONC
Joined
Jun 7, 2007
Messages
50
Reaction score
0
Location
Shreveport, La.
I'm looking to replace my old C-Bushings on my 77 uncut. The ones that are in now are stock and are the originals and were in there before I lifted it. I probably have only about 1.5 - 2 in. of total lift. Question is should I go with the 2 or 4 degree C-bushing kit and after replacing do I need to have the front end alignment checked?

Thanks,

 

Bully Bob

TOP GUN
Moderator
Joined
May 23, 2004
Messages
3,844
Reaction score
12
Location
Boulder City, Nevada (Las Vegas area)
Hi House...,

You've been a member 4 yrs.+ now... You'll be better served if you fill-in your sig. & profile. i.e. receive accurate info./help.

"I probably have only about 1.5 - 2 in."

Have not heard of this lift... :unsure: Is this lift homemade..?

Most lifts start @ 2.5" & up fr. there. The actual height of your lift would be an important 1st. step.

"should I go with the 2 or 4 degree C-bushing kit"

Unfortunately, there's no clear-cut answer here as it seems every lift/bronco is different.

For example., I had to re-do mine to 7deg. even though I have a 2.5" lift., in order to get the proper caster.

Normally it's 2deg. stock., 4deg. for a 2+" lift., 7deg. for 3.5"-5.5" lift.

"after replacing do I need to have the front end alignment checked?"

NO.., there is no adj. The "toe-in" adjusts but you won't be moving that to change the "C"-bushings. "C"-bushings move/correct the caster..., the camber is pre-set at factory @ 1deg.

However., it doesn't hurt to "check" it on an alignment rack so as to get the good news (hopefully) that it's with-in spec.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
OP
OP
khouse

khouse

77 BRONC
Joined
Jun 7, 2007
Messages
50
Reaction score
0
Location
Shreveport, La.
No its not homemade...it has rearched springs in the back with a extra leaf and a 1 inch block. As I mentioned before its a mild lift somewhere between 1.5 to 2in of total lift. The coil springs up front or a heavy duty type just enough to level up. I'm keeping it pretty much stock and uncut. Would like to go with probably around 30x9 AT's eventually. I'm not sure on how the sig.& profile thing works but I will try to fill in later. I was thinking probably 2 degrees but was just curious about the 4 also. Just wondering what might be recommended.

 

Bully Bob

TOP GUN
Moderator
Joined
May 23, 2004
Messages
3,844
Reaction score
12
Location
Boulder City, Nevada (Las Vegas area)
Actually, your profile (left) is pretty much done.

For your sig. (see mine below) click on your name (khouse) & nav. thru.

OUCH..! I'm bett'n you can't drink a cup of coffee in your rig..?? @-)

For a few $$ you could up-grade to a modern lift and, you wouldn't believe the ride diff...!!! (you're doing all that work anyway)

The progressive coils & 11pak rears are = to a "stock" ride.

(You prob. already got longer shocks)

JUST A THOUGHT.. >:D< <'>

If you go with what you got....., & your front tires wear on the outside edges excessively., might consider 4deg.

Keep us posted.... :-B

 
OP
OP
khouse

khouse

77 BRONC
Joined
Jun 7, 2007
Messages
50
Reaction score
0
Location
Shreveport, La.
Actually the ride is not to bad I have thought about going with a little more lift but not replacing the leafs though. I got new Rancho shocks on it. I'll let you know what I go with. I want to put 30x9.5x15's AT's on it and then replace the C-bushings or vice versa.

Thanks for the info

 

Bully Bob

TOP GUN
Moderator
Joined
May 23, 2004
Messages
3,844
Reaction score
12
Location
Boulder City, Nevada (Las Vegas area)
The 11pacs are thin leafs....the ride & articulation are awsome.

My '66 has no top, & the light I-6. Even being a "lightweight" folks following me (if/when they can keep up) always comment on how they like watching my suspension work.

Re-arched & add-a-leafs are the harshest ride avail.

HOWEVER, 20+ yrs. ago., that's all that was available.

If you're happy........... >:D< <'>

 
Last edited by a moderator:

bigbluebronc

New member
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Messages
394
Reaction score
4
Location
ca
No its not homemade...it has rearched springs in the back with a extra leaf and a 1 inch block. As I mentioned before its a mild lift somewhere between 1.5 to 2in of total lift. The coil springs up front or a heavy duty type just enough to level up. I'm keeping it pretty much stock and uncut. Would like to go with probably around 30x9 AT's eventually. I'm not sure on how the sig.& profile thing works but I will try to fill in later. I was thinking probably 2 degrees but was just curious about the 4 also. Just wondering what might be recommended.
The truth is blocks and add a leaves ****. Axle wrap will happen in minor drivin and minor wheelin. Thus a hippity hoppity rear end even in minor ice or snow. I would run a good 31X skinny alltarain with a uncut with your lift. If you can afford a cool uncut, drop some cash and get some good rear springs.

BWY

 

scrub

New member
Joined
Apr 8, 2004
Messages
70
Reaction score
0
Location
Ponoka, AB
"should I go with the 2 or 4 degree C-bushing kit"

Unfortunately, there's no clear-cut answer here as it seems every lift/bronco is different.

For example., I had to re-do mine to 7deg. even though I have a 2.5" lift., in order to get the proper caster.

Normally it's 2deg. stock., 4deg. for a 2+" lift., 7deg. for 3.5"-5.5" lift.

I recently put 36" swamper ssx's on my 76. Now getting a wobble on front drivers side tire. Wheel bearing & ball joints are good, new drag link and tie rods with fresh alignment.Steering box is tight with no play. Read hardened c-bushings can cause the wobble. I have a 4" Rancho lift so how do I determine which deg is right? 7 deg cause it's between 3.5&5.5"?

 

Members online

No members online now.

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
22,521
Messages
135,985
Members
25,125
Latest member
ReturnToHangar
Top